Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Drywall lifts. IIRC PA sells them, HD rents them so you can just give it back after the project.

What do you want to know about venting? Don't do the ghetto vent that terminates inside the wall.

Basement stairs should be pretty easy. What's the problem with the existing stairs?

I thought about working outside and tried it a couple times. Complete fail for me. I need more screen real estate to function efficiently and laptop screens on a sunny day are not great.
Awesome thanks for that!
Venting and stairs, I will have to get back to you, will go riding soon too nice out. :D
 
Putting drywall on a ceiling without one is a 2 person job, that's the difference, if you are working solo the lift will quickly pay for itself, otherwise with some help there are work-arounds.
You can do it with one person, you will just have some more taping work, it will be slower and you will hurt more. You just scab temporary pieces up to give you somewhere to rest one edge of the sheet, lift it up, put a few screws in one side to free up your hands, screw it off, take the scabs off and repeat. A lot depends on whether the lift had sufficient access and how large an area you are trying to do.
 
You can do it with one person, you will just have some more taping work, it will be slower and you will hurt more. You just scab temporary pieces up to give you somewhere to rest one edge of the sheet, lift it up, put a few screws in one side to free up your hands, screw it off, take the scabs off and repeat. A lot depends on whether the lift had sufficient access and how large an area you are trying to do.
;) even better, use thinner drywall, it's a heck of a lot lighter.
ccaac861584b52baa4f2ff48221143a9.jpg
<- poor mans drywall lift.
 
Building code requires 3/4" or 1/2" drywall on ceiling for fire protection. ;)
Perfect! 2-3/8" layers where you need a fire wall.
 
Building code requires 3/4" or 1/2" drywall on ceiling for fire protection. ;)
Wha? Not so much. If you are putting drywall somewhere a fire barrier is required (eg garage to house), you need Type X or Type C. Check OBC for the length of time required for the fire rating and sections SB-2 or SB-3 to figure out the construction to hit the time. If you want a nice flat ceiling 5/8 will look better over time, 1/2 will get a ripple.
 
Cool setup!
Interesting speaker stands.
Is that grey thing on the PS4 a clock?

Thank you! The stands are just jars my fiancee collected and had no use for. The grey thing is a cell phone stand.
 
Home Depot rents them ($50 a day i think). I wouldn't even think about trying to hang more than 1 board without one. Even with two people its a PITA and can be a safety issue if you're on ladders.

don't use lightweight drywall on a ceiling - much more likely to start sagging, etc. , 5/8ths especially if your joist spacing is over 16"
 
@sburns As others have said, you can buy (about $200) a cheap drywall lift or rent them from HD. Actually go on kijiji and tons of people are renting them for $5 or 10 per day, with a deposit so you don't thief it.

You can also do the poor man's drywall lift as shown, or you can get extendable sticks that also hold up the drywall. However, they're on a thin stick so very unstable. They're more there to just hold the drywall in place so you and your partner don't have to keep your hands up.

I'm more curious if I need any special drywall to use in the garage...the previous owner had some ****** wood panels that they were using so I ripped them off. The drywall on the ceiling looks like plaster, but it's 2 sheets combined. I cut a hole and there's plenty of space for insulation (they're currently using those flat sheets of insulation which can be moved around with a finger.

I want to rip the ceiling off, put up the insulation right up to the ceiling, or use that DIY spray foam insulation from HD (approx $850), and then re-drywall the entire garage.
 
Home Depot rents them ($50 a day i think). I wouldn't even think about trying to hang more than 1 board without one. Even with two people its a PITA and can be a safety issue if you're on ladders.

don't use lightweight drywall on a ceiling - much more likely to start sagging, etc. , 5/8ths especially if your joist spacing is over 16"
I used to work with a guy we called Shrek. He was 6'8 and 3?? lbs. To board 8' ceilings, he would throw up 10' sheets of 5/8 Type X and someone else would tack them up, then both people screw off the sheet. It was a lot faster than a lift. It helps if you work with a monster.
 
@sburns As others have said, you can buy (about $200) a cheap drywall lift or rent them from HD. Actually go on kijiji and tons of people are renting them for $5 or 10 per day, with a deposit so you don't thief it.

You can also do the poor man's drywall lift as shown, or you can get extendable sticks that also hold up the drywall. However, they're on a thin stick so very unstable. They're more there to just hold the drywall in place so you and your partner don't have to keep your hands up.

I'm more curious if I need any special drywall to use in the garage...the previous owner had some ****** wood panels that they were using so I ripped them off. The drywall on the ceiling looks like plaster, but it's 2 sheets combined. I cut a hole and there's plenty of space for insulation (they're currently using those flat sheets of insulation which can be moved around with a finger.

I want to rip the ceiling off, put up the insulation right up to the ceiling, or use that DIY spray foam insulation from HD (approx $850), and then re-drywall the entire garage.
Apparently a residential garage doesn't need to be fire rated. F that. I want my garage fire rated. Especially if you are putting spray foam in the cavity, fire plus foam is very not good for you.


I would use one layer of 5/8" Type X or C on channel running perpendicular to floor joists. It looks like you need resilient channels or furring channels to get a 30 minute rating or two layers to get an hour. I am not an architect, make sure you do sufficient research to satisfy yourself.
 
I used to work with a guy we called Shrek. He was 6'8 and 3?? lbs. To board 8' ceilings, he would throw up 10' sheets of 5/8 Type X and someone else would tack them up, then both people screw off the sheet. It was a lot faster than a lift. It helps if you work with a monster.

is he available for rent?
 
I have also seen those drywall lifts on special at princes auto for $99.

you can also grab one off of kijiji and sell it again once you are done with it.
 
Speaking about projects, I just finished a year-long renovation of our master bathroom. Did everything myself except the tile setting (Mrs FLSTC did the drywall taping and painting). All-in was about $10k, but I'd estimate it's a $25k job - gave me some bargaining room for another dirt bike. And a freeze on projects for this year.

kjGMvqr.jpg

Looks Awsome

my wife has been wanting me to do the same.

I know I’ll have to get to it one day
 
@FLSTC Very nice work, kudos!

With all the work we've done in the house now, we are leaving the bathrooms for 2-3 years down the road. The ones we inherited are fine for the time being.
 
I have to finish the trim in my house. I've got a stack of rough-sawn maple to put through the planer and then shape with the router. I really wish I had a proper shaper. Once that is done, maybe build a gazebo about 20 ft from the new deck, and make a link between the two. Of course, that all depends on if I get to stay at home; right now we're planning on making hand sanitizer for the local hospital in the lab. Got over 700 litres of Isopropanol arriving in the next week.

Tear the front porch off the house. The last owners installed stone over a leak into a cold room. I wasn't that concerned, but the cold room is a common slab with the basement so a wet coldroom can affect the living space. Damn. Need to lift the stone, bust up the concrete, take out the concrete door sill, likely remove all supporting wood (cold room ceiling and rim joist under door), reframe, create new door sill, repour slightly sloped slab, install flat roof membrane, reinstall stone. Should look almost the same as now I have just spent a ton of time and money. I contemplated installing a porch roof over the door but that will be for a future time. I'll make sure there are transfer points where I can put columns.
Couldn't you just peel the stone off, float some self-levelling grout on it and then install the membrane etc.? L
 

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