Question about ebay MC With leavers

Hmmmm Chinese quality.........brakes..........what could possibly go wrong :D
 
All right. Thanks guys
my bud suggested it as i needed both levers and mc replaced. I suppose ill go with used oem parts instead
 
^^I have shorty adjustable levers on my current bike. They look exactly as shorty Pazzos on my previous bike. Never had an issue. $55 shipped to my door.

But master cylinder I'd get like a Brembo or something.
 
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Is your MC pooched or does it just need a rebuild kit? I'd figure that part out first. If it just needs a cleaning and a rebuild kit - go with that. The money you'd save, you could get some $55 levers.

If the MC is truly pooched, go with used OEM replacement (if you want to save some $ by not buying new). You might still need a rebuild kit.

I bought a used 2000 MC for an R1. It had a sticking spot in it. Took it apart, cleaned it out, installed rebuild kit. Was good after that.


Jeff
'87 RZ 350
 
^^I have shorty adjustable levers on my current bike. They look exactly as shorty Pazzos on my previous bike. Never had an issue. $55 shipped to my door.

But master cylinder I'd get like a Brembo or something.
So its not the lever but the mc itself. Hmm
Is your MC pooched or does it just need a rebuild kit? I'd figure that part out first. If it just needs a cleaning and a rebuild kit - go with that. The money you'd save, you could get some $55 levers.

If the MC is truly pooched, go with used OEM replacement (if you want to save some $ by not buying new). You might still need a rebuild kit.

I bought a used 2000 MC for an R1. It had a sticking spot in it. Took it apart, cleaned it out, installed rebuild kit. Was good after that.


Jeff
'87 RZ 350

Thanks for the reply jeff. The problem isnt the mc but the 2 bolts itself. One of the heads snapped. I tried using a cone extractor to no avail. At one point the extractor failed and snapped. I couldnt even drill further and cant tap it either. Stock vs aftermarket mc/levers, the difference is huge in terms of stopping power. I got the idea from a friend who decided to swap his stock to a 1000r.
 
Oh, one of the two bolts that holds the unit to the handle bar snapped. That sucks big. Yeah, I think you're kinda screw@d there.

It's funny, for me the OEM, R1, dual pot brakes that I put on my bike were a HUGE upgrade from the spongy, single piston that came with my RZ. I guess it's all relative. ;)


Jeff
'87 RZ 350
 
Oh, one of the two bolts that holds the unit to the handle bar snapped. That sucks big. Yeah, I think you're kinda screw@d there.

It's funny, for me the OEM, R1, dual pot brakes that I put on my bike were a HUGE upgrade from the spongy, single piston that came with my RZ. I guess it's all relative. ;)


Jeff
'87 RZ 350

Well now if i were to change my forks then itll be a night and day
 
What bike do you have?


Jeff
'87 RZ 350
 
So, are you looking for any aftermarket MC and reservoir that will work?

What is your current setup? One line from your current MC and then it splits into 2 somewhere above your front fender (kinda like my OEM RZ setup)? Would you be able to take some pics of your current MC?

I'm just trying to get a feel for what you have and what you are looking to do. I'm assuming you had OEM and are looking to upgrade, considering the pic or link that you had at the beginning of the post.

I'd try to find something from a modern Honda that uses a remote reservoir.


Jeff
'87 RZ 350
 
So, are you looking for any aftermarket MC and reservoir that will work?

What is your current setup? One line from your current MC and then it splits into 2 somewhere above your front fender (kinda like my OEM RZ setup)? Would you be able to take some pics of your current MC?

I'm just trying to get a feel for what you have and what you are looking to do. I'm assuming you had OEM and are looking to upgrade, considering the pic or link that you had at the beginning of the post.

I'd try to find something from a modern Honda that uses a remote reservoir.


Jeff
'87 RZ 350

Im looking for a better set up that will increase the braking power as the stock ones are spongy to the point where the bike is still rolling even with the lever fully pressed

Currently, Im using an '04 gsxr 1000 mc with the lever (yes i'm aware about the recall and this year doesn't affect it).

My current set up is a stock set up that's one line to one line.

The forks for these bikes are interchangable. Thus, there's a possibility to mount 2 caliper. I am just not so sure what would work best as a splitter from one to 2 line.

Lastly, pardon the mess. I've disassembled the bike and got help from friends to bring it to my basement to store/clean/rebuild (carbs and maybe top end) over the winter
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Im looking for a better set up that will increase the braking power as the stock ones are spongy to the point where the bike is still rolling even with the lever fully pressed

Currently, Im using an '04 gsxr 1000 mc with the lever (yes i'm aware about the recall and this year doesn't affect it).

My current set up is a stock set up that's one line to one line.

The forks for these bikes are interchangable. Thus, there's a possibility to mount 2 caliper. I am just not so sure what would work best as a splitter from one to 2 line.

Lastly, pardon the mess. I've disassembled the bike and got help from friends to bring it to my basement to store/clean/rebuild (carbs and maybe top end) over the winter
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Was just looking at the post. The pics don't come up at all.

I found '...the stock ones are spongy to the point where the bike is still rolling even with the lever fully pressed', to be concerning. Again, hard to tell exactly what you have without pics - they are worth a thousand words. Lol

My single pot OEM calipers on my RZ would still stop my bike when the lever was fully cranked. The brakes would eventually fade under hard use. To me, it sounds like there is more to your brake problem than just setup or component combination. It sounds like you have some air in your system or you have a seized piston.

You have a 'modern' (Gixxer) MC. It should be able to provide lots of hydraulic pressure. Are the calipers modern as well or are they stock? If they are old/original, might be time for a rebuild. If you have sticky caliper pistons, it won't matter how good your MC is. If you have air trapped somewhere in your brakes system, that'll give you that spongy feel.

Are you confident that there are no other mechanical issues.
 
Was just looking at the post. The pics don't come up at all.

I found '...the stock ones are spongy to the point where the bike is still rolling even with the lever fully pressed', to be concerning. Again, hard to tell exactly what you have without pics - they are worth a thousand words. Lol

My single pot OEM calipers on my RZ would still stop my bike when the lever was fully cranked. The brakes would eventually fade under hard use. To me, it sounds like there is more to your brake problem than just setup or component combination. It sounds like you have some air in your system or you have a seized piston.

You have a 'modern' (Gixxer) MC. It should be able to provide lots of hydraulic pressure. Are the calipers modern as well or are they stock? If they are old/original, might be time for a rebuild. If you have sticky caliper pistons, it won't matter how good your MC is. If you have air trapped somewhere in your brakes system, that'll give you that spongy feel.

Are you confident that there are no other mechanical issues.

I uploaded the images again


Okay maybe i exaggerated a little bit. The braking power is enough that i can stop with using just the front brakes. However, i suppose im looking for a stopping power that is comparable with the newer bikes. The bike will eventually stop. I suppose roughly 4-6 seconds from 60-70 km/h.

Im sure there isnt any air bubbles on the bike. I do own a brake bleeder pump. The pistons do work and does retract accordingly when i tested it out.

Do you think it could just be the pads or the lines that needs replacing? As this is the first bike ive owned, i do not exactly sure whats good and whats not when it comes to pads. I was thinking soft compound pads. The pads will definitely shave off faster but will provide more stopping power. As for the lines,maybe braided lines?


9atu7ynu.jpg
8uzuse2a.jpg
asu6e6a3.jpg
 
I uploaded the images again


Okay maybe i exaggerated a little bit. The braking power is enough that i can stop with using just the front brakes. However, i suppose im looking for a stopping power that is comparable with the newer bikes. The bike will eventually stop. I suppose roughly 4-6 seconds from 60-70 km/h.

Im sure there isnt any air bubbles on the bike. I do own a brake bleeder pump. The pistons do work and does retract accordingly when i tested it out.

Do you think it could just be the pads or the lines that needs replacing? As this is the first bike ive owned, i do not exactly sure whats good and whats not when it comes to pads. I was thinking soft compound pads. The pads will definitely shave off faster but will provide more stopping power. As for the lines,maybe braided lines?


9atu7ynu.jpg
8uzuse2a.jpg
asu6e6a3.jpg

Thanks for reposting the pics. I have a clear view of your set up.

If you're looking for stopping power comparable to that of modern day bikes - you're not going to get it with ONE individual, single pot caliper setup. It's outdated.

Very first thing I'd do is find a CB forum where there are 100's (if not 1000's) of people that have your same bike and have already done the same mods that you want to do. They've probably already found the best/cheapest way to do it and someone has done all the leg work.

I'm assuming that you are ok with modding your bike to achieve some real brakes? Hopefully you have some decent skills (and tools) to go along with the motivation. It can be a bit of a slippery slope modifying bikes. I know, fell down it face first. Once you change one thing, you have to change 2-5 others to make it all work. That's why it's beat to go to a specific forum. I'll try to give you some general advice here.

The ultimate goal would be to have: 2, dual pot piston calipers to produce the stopping power you desire. You may not be able to do this as it may turn out to be more work/time/money than you are willing to spend.

I'll throw some options out there. You will have to evaluate them and see what is going to work best for you.

You need at least 2 calipers. First part is determining how to do this. You can swap the lower tube on the fork that doesn't have mounting points with a lower tube that does have them. This will give a place to mount another caliper. To go along with this, you have to make sure that your current front rim will allow you to mount another rotor on the side that does not have one. No sense having another caliper without a rotor. Lol

If this is possible, great. If not, here's where it gets ugly fast. If not, you need to find another 'suitable' rim. Suitable meaning: same diameter, spoked (if you want to keep the look), axle bolt diameter is same as original, rotors are similar diameter to original. Lots of things to consider here. It's usually best to stick to same manufacturer i.e. Honda parts for your bike. Lots of times you can get 750 stuff to work on your 550. If they are same era parts, things like axle dia's tend to be the same.

Say you find a suitable rim with 2 rotors, now you need calipers. I'm not sure what suggest here. I'm a Yamaha guy. Maybe something from a CBR 600? Again, the CBR forum guys would be helpful. Whatever you decide, I'm pretty sure that you will need to have adapter plates fab'd up. You need these plates to compensate for the different mounting points between your forks and new calipers. I'm glossing over this a fair bit as there are tons of little details to work out.

Once you have the caliper details worked out. You need a MC (and reservoir). I'd go with the one that matches your calipers. That way you know that they were designed to work together.

Upgrading the brakes is a great mod to do. I did the same thing, except I wanted to change rim size at the same time. For me, I decided to go with updated suspension too. It was just easier to put on an R1 (kept it all Yamaha) front end.

I hope this helps. I really do recommend getting on the CB forum. I'm sure there are 30+ guys who have already done what you want to do. Don't re-create the wheel.


Jeff
'87 RZ 350
 
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