Your winter maint. plans..? | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Your winter maint. plans..?

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Hack said:
Now that winter is firmly established in my AO... It's time to look towards all those jobs that need to/should be done.
My '16 FJR is due for some maint. so here's what I plan to do between now and the start of the 2020 riding season..

ILA1Gg4.jpg


-Centre stand removal/maint./lube service.
-Swing arm removal/inspection/lube service.
-Steering head bearing inspection/re packing/torqueing.
-Coolant change
-Brake/clutch fluid flush/change.
-Brake pad insp./ and change if necessary.
-Spark plug check/replacement(?)
-Throttle body sync.
-Tire change
-Drive shaft insp./lube service

What are your plans for the long cold winter ahead...?

Bike and tasks..
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I do all that every 2 years except the center stand -- removing it is a night PIA! I spray engine cleaner around the grimy areas then use lithium spray.

FWIW, I've done a couple of FJRs that went well over 100K without service, I've never seen a worn head or swingarm bearing/bushing. On same 3 FJRs I've never needed a valve adjustment.

I'd never advise missing these services as they are safety and maintenance, but I wonder sometimes if these are in the book to help stealerships.
 
matt365 said:
New rear tire on order. I will spoon them on myself. No fancy no-mar changer. Tire bars, 2x4 blocking, a bead breaker made from 2x4, plywood, and a carriage bolt through my shed wall. (Simple lever).
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I have a manual bead breaker and tire changer in my shop that you are welcome to use for the same price that I acquired said tire changer for some years ago: Nothing.

It's like the No-Mar tire changer, except without the No-Mar bits and pieces, you're on your own for that. I use it only on wheels that I don't care about any more. (Wheels on the tired old zx10r are matte black ... and they've been repainted and touched up with Tremclad ...)
 
I need to put a new rear tire on the versys, then its cleaning them both to sell. The husky is already set to pass a safety.

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Brian P said:
I have a manual bead breaker and tire changer in my shop that you are welcome to use for the same price that I acquired said tire changer for some years ago: Nothing.

It's like the No-Mar tire changer, except without the No-Mar bits and pieces, you're on your own for that. I use it only on wheels that I don't care about any more. (Wheels on the tired old zx10r are matte black ... and they've been repainted and touched up with Tremclad ...)
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I may take you up on that. I was careful with the tuono for my last rear tire change doing it my way. I'm sure your way would be less prone to scratching rims than mine.

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Hack said:
Twist top, opener style or are you drinkin' from a can..?
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I have a manservant to open them for me and fan me with banana leaves while I drink.

Truth is the bike doesn’t need anything this year. I spent the last few years wiring in supplementary equipment, tweaking things and it runs like a top. Probably could do with a valve clearance check but I’ve got zero room in the garage to be disassembling stuff right now.
 
Since this thread is about winter maint...I didnt want to start a new thread...I just discovered service/repair manuals...had no idea they were a thing, separate altogether from the pointless user manuals

My question is do you guys religiously follow the torque specs? There seem to be torque specs for EVERYTHING in here..
or is 'tight enough' good enough?
 
bigpoppa said:
Since this thread is about winter maint...I didnt want to start a new thread...I just discovered service/repair manuals...had no idea they were a thing, separate altogether from the pointless user manuals

My question is do you guys religiously follow the torque specs? There seem to be torque specs for EVERYTHING in here..
or is 'tight enough' good enough?
Click to expand...

I do. If you’ve ever stripped a crucial bolt/hole you would. I added a centrestand to one of my bikes one year and stripped a main mounting hole out in an engine case. Had to take it to a garage and get it helicoiled and it was a royal pain in the ass. I check the torque of everything at the start of every season. Doesn’t take too long at all.
 
bigpoppa said:
Since this thread is about winter maint...I didnt want to start a new thread...I just discovered service/repair manuals...had no idea they were a thing, separate altogether from the pointless user manuals

My question is do you guys religiously follow the torque specs? There seem to be torque specs for EVERYTHING in here..
or is 'tight enough' good enough?
Click to expand...
Some bolts definitely need to be torqued. Think pinch bolts on the triple trees, once you overtighten them, they "squish" the forks, and they don't work properly anymore.
Once you have a couple of decent torque wrenches, you may as well use them.
I have a good feel for "tight", I use a torque wrench.

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bigpoppa said:
Since this thread is about winter maint...I didnt want to start a new thread...I just discovered service/repair manuals...had no idea they were a thing, separate altogether from the pointless user manuals

My question is do you guys religiously follow the torque specs? There seem to be torque specs for EVERYTHING in here..
or is 'tight enough' good enough?
Click to expand...
The general rule of thumb is... If you need to ask, get a torque wrench.

As one gains experience your hands develop a feel for torque, like a butcher gets a feel for the weight of meat. You also learn what is torque minimum, order/sequence and what is torque sensitive. For example, a cylinder head might be torque down to a specific 10lbs in a specific order, then again at 65 lbs in a specific order. If you don't follow the sequence and exact torque specs you risk damage or leakage. In another example, rotating a steering stem, you might need 35 lbs to set the bearing -- 35 to 50 lbs will do, I wouldn't need a torque wrench for that or setting the stem retainer at 13 lbs or the cap at 85 lbs.

The most sensitive to exact torque are mating surfaces with lots of fasteners, rotating parts, and for soft metals. Pinch points (axles, triples, mounts) generally need to reach minimum torque, going over won't hurt.

To be safe, get a torque wrench.
 
One thing I forgot to mention is you can torque train yourself. Put a wrench in a wheel nut, set it to 10lbs. Use the wrench repeatedly till you get the feel for 10 lbs. Again at 20, again at 30 ... Repeat to 100. Do this a few times and your brain and hands will become trained as subs for a torque wrench suitable for maintenance items.
 
I love wrenching almost as much as riding...I got 2 KTM’s, heated double garage, some rock tunes & beer...
great way to take a break from the grind, lol.

My ktm shop:
- Valves
- Fuel mapping
etc...

Myself:
- Replace ALL fluids.
- Check ALL nuts & bolts( trq. spec)
- clean & oil air filters
- Lube ALL external bearings.
- Check ALL electrical connectors
- Batteries on trickle chargers
- Inspect/lube drivetrain
- Inspect/lube cables
- Inspect/replace tires
- cosmetic update/repairs
- Add/update farkles

so yeah, go through most stuff before start of season



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Torque specs are important..
I think without using a torque wrench the tendency is to over tighten...
 
RE: torque values.

Err on the side of caution for things like oil drain bolts. Check model specific forums for common issues.

The factory suggested torque on my Aprilias oil drain bolt Is 30nm, Or 22 Ftlbs.

People have stripped the oil pan threads trying to get it to that spec. I set my torque wrench at 18, and still feel like I'm going to strip it out...

Same as people trying to use k&n oil filters (with the nut on the front); using the nut to crank the filter on. The nut is to help removal of the filter, not installation. Ever had to drive a screwdriver through an oil filter because its WAY too tight? Hand tight is fine.


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Wingboy said:
Maybe i'll drag my 50 yr old outboard out of the shed and redo it.
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'Reminds me of a time way back when a friend of mine would do two big fishing trips a year... One in the spring and one in the fall.
My friend had this little gas powered trolling motor that would run just fine in a garbage can full of water in his driveway in Mississauga, but... 'Wouldn't even start once we were out at some remote northern Ontario lake.
We carted that little motor all over northern Ontario for years and NOT ONCE did we ever get it going when we would have wanted to use it.
IIRC we left it propped up against a tree somewhere around Temagami circa 1989
 
Hack said:
Torque specs are important.. I think without using a torque wrench the tendency is to over tighten...
Click to expand...

+1

CT has torque wrenches and just about every other type of tool you'd need on sale every month or so. I've had 3/8 and 1/2 Maximum torque wrenches for years.
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