Snapped a screw head - Drill extractor set? | Page 7 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Snapped a screw head - Drill extractor set?

Trials said:
If he's struggling with drilling out a broken bolt there won't be any 'throw' a helicoil insert in there.
Click to expand...

My point with suggesting tools that the OP doesn't have was that things may be at a crossroads where he's going to have to decide to either continue going at this himself, or seeking the help of a professional who will probably make quick work of things.
 
HERBXX said:
A hail marry might be to try a carbide cement bit to try and chip the easy-out out....
Click to expand...
You can't drill an Easyout, too hard to start, too hard impossible to keep centered.

If you don't want to plasma blast or mig, you can try 'dental surgery'. Get a small diamond tip ball end for a die grinder or Dremmel tool and take an hour to gently grind it out. Easier than a drill, just gonna take a lot longer.
 
I say continue (y) is still not completely buggered yet.

This is the other kind of bolt extractor I had in mind.
9r-471-901-3_10830202.jpg
 
Is there any thread left in the back of the hole that you can screw into? If there is, get a bolt that will screw into the rear threads and predrill a hole STRAIGHT through the centre of it. Now screw the bolt into the threads and use that as a guide to drill out through the centre of the mutilated bolt that's there now. Go slow and watch the chips that come out. Too slow, no chips, too fast, no chips, sweet spot, chips. You will feel when you've hit the easy out. At that point stop and move up to a bigger size drill bit. You should be able to do this until you can punch the extractor out from the back.

I can't suggest a place to buy bits, have no idea what suppliers are out there.

If you can't get a bolt in from the back see if you can vise grip a fender washer to the frame and use the centre of the washer as a guide.

If neither of these are possible, the dremel with diamond ball and patience as was suggested earlier.
 
So I am assuming you have no threads/they are buggered. I would probably just go up a size and drill/tap for ~M10. Don't break the tap off :)
 
GreyGhost said:
So I am assuming you have no threads/they are buggered. I would probably just go up a size and drill/tap for ~M10. Don't break the tap off :)
Click to expand...
No kidding. Fcuk that was brutal.

Nope no threads grinded out everything. It's not perfectly straight either, wider on one side. I am just going to bolt/nut it up (for now), and forget this ever happened.
 
x3 on the bolt it up and use a nylock, they're awesome. Get her back together, looks like spring finally arrives tomorrow for a whole 4 days! ;)
 
JavaFan said:
I'd paint the bare spots so rust doesn't bleed down after a rain
then go for a black nylock nut, done
Click to expand...
Yup that's what I am going for. I have some from Brasfco already. Just need to find something to shimmy the hole a bit, and some rubber washers.

What can I use to patch up the paint scratches on the frame?
 
Congrats! I've spend many a day using Dental Surgery technique on rusty salt water boats - slow and boring but it works.

f you want to get the rest out, keep grinding till you have a centered pilot hole then return to drilling. Move drill sides up one at a time, use lots of lube and stop drilling once you edge until you see the thread poke thru. A screw extractor will likely work now, or simply go with the nut and bolt and call it a day.

If your bike is 2009 and up, I think that rear subframe unbolts. If so, take the part to a machine shop, should be less than $50 to repair.
 
That is some impressive force to snap a bolt in half threading it in, the signs that baby was cross threaded were definitely there! Lesson learned. :cool:
 
sburns said:
What can I use to patch up the paint scratches on the frame?
Click to expand...
Tremclad or Rustoleum is a pretty good match for most frames. Dries fast, no primer needed and you can pick up a can for $5-7 at Canadian Tire.
 
is the area covered by your bags?
if so, a dab of silicone will do the same thing as paint
easier to apply, and you won't have to see it
 
Mad Mike said:
Congrats! I've spend many a day using Dental Surgery technique on rusty salt water boats - slow and boring but it works.

f you want to get the rest out, keep grinding till you have a centered pilot hole then return to drilling. Move drill sides up one at a time, use lots of lube and stop drilling once you edge until you see the thread poke thru. A screw extractor will likely work now, or simply go with the nut and bolt and call it a day.

If your bike is 2009 and up, I think that rear subframe unbolts. If so, take the part to a machine shop, should be less than $50 to repair.
Click to expand...
Ha that is funny, exactly what I was thinking about when I was grinding away with the Dremel.

It is a 2012. I was looking at that, the back part of the frame does come off. But the 2 sides are welded together with a bridge which is under the seat. I dunno I didn't what to go that far and rip the bike half apart.
 
JavaFan said:
is the area covered by your bags?
if so, a dab of silicone will do the same thing as paint
easier to apply, and you won't have to see it
Click to expand...
Pretty much covered or less noticeably visible. Good idea. I also have some spots underneathe the bike I also want to address. It's flaking off under there. Might do both areas at the same time.
 
? And the peasants rejoiced!

although from the photo the hole does not appear big enough, you sure there's not still some bolt in there?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top Bottom