Snapped a screw head - Drill extractor set? | Page 6 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Snapped a screw head - Drill extractor set?

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bitzz said:
I have spent more time and effort typing that it would take to fix this.
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Don't worry your voice is not going unheard, and it defintatly sounds like you are speaking from experience. It's too bad you are too far away otherwise, yes you would be the right person for this. Plus you know sometimes you want to do things yourself.
 
FLSTC said:
You're falling behind on the 2019 Ontario GTA Photo Tag contest. You better head over to The Reasonably Priced Used Motorcycles for Sale Thread and get a back-up ride.
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I know.. it's hampering my riding in general....sigh.

I might have to just get a grom :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
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sburns said:
Yup. it's stuck in the bolt, this is why I am thinking to try from the other side.
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that is going to be a problem
it is harder than any drill bits you're gonna use

I've had success in the past using a center punch and hammer
to break the extractor into bits and pick it out

what part of the bike is this we're talking about?
is it the rear fender support?
if it can be removed and get it up on a work bench
you'be be in far better condition to work on either side
 
What is the frame made of ? AL or Steel ? or maybe a casting ? I think some heat may be in order here .
I have never seen a easy out used successfully without a ton of prep to the point the bolt was already loose. If in fact it is cross threaded nothing is going to save the threads . It looks like there is lots of room to use a threaded insert once its out .

At this point building a custom jig and trying to drill it out from the back would be my choice .

Would it be possible to use a bit extension and put it right though from the other side of the frame ? If it is 8mm , a 1/4 dill should pass through the other side with just a little clearance .
 
sburns said:
Yup. it's stuck in the bolt, this is why I am thinking to try from the other side.
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If you go from the other side and end up taking the wheel off for room make sure you understand how to set the drive belt tension again. It requires a special tool.
 
blackcamaro said:
If you go from the other side and end up taking the wheel off for room make sure you understand how to set the drive belt tension again. It requires a special tool.
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What do you mean some guys do things by "feel" or finger touches... haha kidding.

Thanks for the reminder, I have the tool, as I needed to remove the rear wheel to change the tire. The alignment seemed to be the more tricky part with those tensioners.
 
HERBXX said:
Would it be possible to use a bit extension and put it right though from the other side of the frame ? If it is 8mm , a 1/4 dill should pass through the other side with just a little clearance .
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I almost like this idea except for the broken off easy-out in there. He might get lucky and it will come free or he may get unlucky and break off a drill bit in the back and an easy-out in the front compounding his problems.
 
There is no good answer here... I'm thinking I would use a big enough drill that it wont twist off with out a lot of effort . Also hoping, time you get to the easy out you stop when you "feel it " and then the easy-out could possible be driven out from the back . I would expect a lot of time and go very slow if I was doing it . Does anyone know what the composition of the material is around the bolt ???? If s its cast or steel the easy-out could possible be annealed by heating to red hot and letting it cool a couple times .. if its aluminum the whole thing will melt so not such a good idea .. .. At this stage saving the thread will be a bonus …

My father made part of our living removing broken studs back in the day .. Worst ones were are drilled off center into the threads , then with an easy-out broken off pinning the stud in place ….
 
Looking at how much beef there is on that mounting point, and assuming it's steel...I must admit my mind drifts back to a plasma cutter again.

Blast it out, drill it out then to clean up the sides and either tap it again or throw a helicoil in it.

Got a welding/fab shop near you by chance?
 
If he's struggling with drilling out a broken bolt there won't be any 'throw' a helicoil insert in there. A helicoil insert requires bloody big special sized drill and a very special tap, both of which have to be used with great care and precision. The only cheap and easy part of that process is the little threaded insert itself.

The frame part is cast steel, odds are it is still in reasonable condition and there really is no reason it should not stay that way. The broken insert won't be a problem once you have a hole from the other end, you'll be able to drive that out of there because they don't cut that good of a thread, it can't possibly be in there more then a couple of turns and it's very tapered. ? is there enough easy-out tool sticking out to weld a nut on it ? ... probably not because hardened steel breaks like glass.

bitzz said:
... after some consideration:
4) Make a drill jig, using the other mounting holes to locate it
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That's what I wanted him to do on page 1

As for it being an 8mm bolt I asked if that's what it is because that's what it looked like to my eye based on the photo only :|

Cement bit would be perfect if it was made of concrete, it's not.
 
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heating/welding is the last resort for this
the refinishing effort will be a bummer

and if OP had to go out and buy bits and easy-outs
I'm assuming he does not have a torch set and welding machine either

a good quality and sharp (won't be when he's done) centre punch
and hammer will fracture that extractor remnant out of there
they are hard which also makes them brittle

then he can get some quality drill bits and start over
patiently, ensuring not to smoke the bit
stepping up in size, but first getting all the way through

OP, you need to get a hole right through that broken bolt
it can't shrink until you do
and as it's jammed up, you need to shrink it

agree that saving the threads are a long shot
but a bolt and nylok nut are a fine solution
 
Cement/masonry bits are carbide tipped and will drill hardened steel. Its a cheap option and works great. I've used them to drill out bolts on my car a bunch.
 
lol pretty sad this is the most interesting thread on the site right now,
The broken thread saga continues
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r3r3r3 said:
Cement/masonry bits are carbide tipped and will drill hardened steel. Its a cheap option and works great. I've used them to drill out bolts on my car a bunch.
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Masonry bits are as dull as a cement chisel, you can cut steel with a sharpened edge or grind steel with abrasion but you can't hammer it into submission with a dull bit, life is too short for that.

... the drill didn't break half way up the shank because it was too dull or made from soft steel. The broken piece is probably still sharp if it had anything left to turn it with.
OR if you are cheap like me you might sharpen the broken drill shank and use it some more. (y) Here' is your big chance to learn how to sharpen a twist drill.
 
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Masonary bits can also be sharpened on the correct wheel... There is no correct answer here, a lot depends on the skill the individual doing the work . ……
There does seem to be a slight consensus that drilling from the back side is of the answer … If the bolt is in there cross threaded s so tight to twist off , drilling may be the only answer … Once the old piece is out , one approach is drill the back out large, and then grind a nut round and braze it in the hole.. Bronze is a lot more forgiving then welding on cast... I agree a lot of things being discussed are challenging if you have never done them before ..
 
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