Replicating fairing parts in fiberglass | GTAMotorcycle.com

Replicating fairing parts in fiberglass

oomis

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I'm thinking ahead, and it makes sense to replace my oem bodywork on my track bike with fiberglass. Mostly because the fairing parts may be a pain in the behind to get, as the bike is low-volume. Also, nobody makes bodywork for this bike.

I was going to use the original fairing pieces as molds, then use those molds to build the fairing pieces. I know it's going to look a bit janky, but I'm ok with that.

Anyone done this before? Tips and tricks to share?

Some googling suggested that painters tape be used to cover the female mold, and cooking spray used as a mold release. I also saw some use saran wrap between the mold and the plug with very good results.

Does the collective have any thoughts?
 

GreyGhost

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I'm thinking ahead, and it makes sense to replace my oem bodywork on my track bike with fiberglass. Mostly because the fairing parts may be a pain in the behind to get, as the bike is low-volume. Also, nobody makes bodywork for this bike.

I was going to use the original fairing pieces as molds, then use those molds to build the fairing pieces. I know it's going to look a bit janky, but I'm ok with that.

Anyone done this before? Tips and tricks to share?

Some googling suggested that painters tape be used to cover the female mold, and cooking spray used as a mold release. I also saw some use saran wrap between the mold and the plug with very good results.

Does the collective have any thoughts?
You're making a track Niken? Awesome. The fast one or the other one?

Painters tape will likely leave a bunch of ridges in the mold you'd need to deal with (unless you really didn't care about the appearance of the part). I haven't made fibreglass molds before. I have seen people use spray foam and a plastic bag for a quick and dirty female impression.
 

Wingboy

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Good for you for wanting to try this.
Fiberglass is horrible stuff to work with. Having a detached garage is almost a must. The smell will linger in your home for months.
 

crankcall

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Do Not use cooking spray. Use mold release wax . Do tape anywhere you dont want glass to be , fill bolt holes in existing patterns with a plug of caulking, if the resin seeps through into a bolt hole it will glue itself down.
Put on three , yes three, liberal coats of mold wax, wax does not stick to wax, so its not building up, its a gaurantee you covered everything. If your mold is a plastic panel , do not make your first glass layer buildup too thick, curing resin creates heat and you dont want to deform the mold. subsequent layers can be thicker.
Do this in polyester resin , not epoxy.
Buy paint brushes at the dollar store to brush out resin and push glass into corners and throw them out, dont bother trying to clean them. A laminate roller is handy to push resin through the glass fiber , but you dont need it , stiff paint brush will work on small panels.
use cloth, the matt will not conform nicely to the curves without fuss.

Canada Composites in missisauga can sell you everything you need , CTC has some of what you need but not all.
 

oomis

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You're making a track Niken? Awesome. The fast one or the other one?

Painters tape will likely leave a bunch of ridges in the mold you'd need to deal with (unless you really didn't care about the appearance of the part). I haven't made fibreglass molds before. I have seen people use spray foam and a plastic bag for a quick and dirty female impression.

Yeah, the track Niken. With the turbo and tuning it is too much for the street. I had it on the track at TMP last labour day, and it was just hilarious, and so that's where it'll stay. If I'm honest, for everyday hooning and touring, the stock Niken is perfect the way it is.

I'm operating under the understanding that at some point, the track bike will go down, and I'd like to prep the body work for that. You guys know that fiberglass is easier to repair etc. I'm taking out all of the components related to the street - turn signals etc. came off a while ago, but I'm going to be removing the headlight. Should reduce weight quite a bit, but then that got me thinking about replicating the body work in fiberglass. That way I can use the original bodywork as spares in case anything happens with the street Niken.

I would think that ridges and other imperfections can be sanded? I'm not looking for perfection by any stretch, it'll all be spray bombed in a matte black and covered in stickers, because horsepower, right?

Good for you for wanting to try this.
Fiberglass is horrible stuff to work with. Having a detached garage is almost a must. The smell will linger in your home for months.

Yeah, I'm experimenting. I have some time and the space (detached garage) so I just want to see how it goes. I have a piece of fairing from an old bike that I'm going to use to experiment with, that way I don't ruin a panel I might need.

@crankcall thanks for that post. That's the stuff I'm looking for. Also I didn't know anything about Canada Composites; I'm going to give them a call and see what they say. Hopefully they'll take a call from a noob.

@Ash I'm going to dig into that thread, thanks. I agree; this seems like a huge pain in the behind, but I don't see that I have other options. Nobody makes track kits for a tricycle, and I don't know anyone who would take on a bespoke project like this. I'd pay to have it done right by someone who knows what they're doing, but I can't find that person.
 
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Ash

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Do you want the fairings for functional or aesthetic purposes? For a trackday, the only truly functional piece would be the bellypan which I don't think the Niken has to begin with. WERA allows turkey pans as belly pans (I'll let you decide how appalled you are by this idea). edit: link isn't working. just do a google image search on "WERA sv650 turkey pan"

Maybe pulling off all the sharp sticky-out-ie bits like the headlight birdcage and throwing on some frame sliders and running it naked would work? Are the rear side panels shared with another bike? Even if not, you could probably get something non-model-specific to work in the rear
 

oomis

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The fairings will be purely functional. I'm not even worried about a belly pan; I'm just doing recreational track days, for which a belly pan isn't required. So I shouldn't have to make up any new pieces, just replicate what is already on the bike.

I mean, turkey pans work, I suppose... I have a turbo wrapped around three wheels, so I'm not in a position to judge anyone else's setup. 🤣
 

Wingboy

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I know a guy that is very good. He is busy building Lamborghini Countachs right now (seriously) He is in Elmira. Easy to find if you are on fb.Udo Keul.
 

oomis

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I know a guy that is very good. He is busy building Lamborghini Countachs right now (seriously) He is in Elmira. Easy to find if you are on fb.Udo Keul.
Found him on FB and sent him a note. If he's working on Countachs right now, I can't see him being interested in my little project, but you never know.
 

oomis

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crankcall

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There are lots of guys doing small 'one off' glass work, Crompton composites in waterdown, McCrea in hamilton.
But bare in mind, small panel still = custom and non of this work will be cheap unless you find a guy , like SquidSkins doing semi production runs.

Its not hard, I've been doing boat parts and race car parts for years, but get an actual cartidge respirator and wear it. The fumes are only annoying while your working with them , 20yrs from now that "annoying" is a respiratory illness. And wear nitril gloves, none of this **** is good for you.
 

timtune

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Consider that polyester resin shrinks a bit. So your mold will be slightly smaller than the original and the parts you make slightly smaller than that again. Been a while since I was in the business but I want to say 1.5%, but best you google the rate.
 

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