Next Project??? | GTAMotorcycle.com

Next Project???

Mad Mike

Well-known member
Work on the ATV and racing QT50 are done... time to pick the next project. I have a few survivors in need of TLC, trying to decide which to tackle next.

1) 69 Triumph TR25W. 250 single 4-stroke re-badged BSA B25. Bought it as a half-assed trials conversion. Had cheap alloy fenders, BSA alloy tank, pillion seat setup as a solo seat (silly, but apparently quite OK to British owners). I finished the mechanical overhaul and modernized to 12v electrical 2 years ago, then went on the hunt for original bodywork. Got it all now, the tank & side covers are good, fenders need a lot of work. All bodywork needs paint.

2) 74 Yamaha RD125. 125 2 cyl 2 stroke. This is a survivor that was put away in a friend's basement around 1980. 5000 original miles, 100% OE -- even has rotten OE tires. Will need a major go-over. Tires, brakes, forks, chassis and wheel bearings, engine seals, carbs. Completely rust free, not a spec of rust on the pipes. A few tank dents and scratches, so it will need paint.

3) 72 JAWA 350 Californian. 350 2 cyl 2 stroke. Same guy and story as above but has rusty pipes and missing one side cover. 10000 miles.

None of these are 'special' to me, so I'll probably sell each one as I finish it off. Its hard to place a value on them, Im guessing $2-3K if certified roadworthy.

Which one deserves to be first?
 
Soft spot for the RD....
 
The Triumph/BSA will likely be the easiest to sell don't you think? Especially if it's certified.

I would think if certified it might go for 4K or am I being too enthusiastic about an old underpowered, reputedly unreliable British 250?
 
Work on the ATV and racing QT50 are done... time to pick the next project. I have a few survivors in need of TLC, trying to decide which to tackle next.

1) 69 Triumph TR25W. 250 single 4-stroke re-badged BSA B25. Bought it as a half-assed trials conversion. Had cheap alloy fenders, BSA alloy tank, pillion seat setup as a solo seat (silly, but apparently quite OK to British owners). I finished the mechanical overhaul and modernized to 12v electrical 2 years ago, then went on the hunt for original bodywork. Got it all now, the tank & side covers are good, fenders need a lot of work. All bodywork needs paint.

2) 74 Yamaha RD125. 125 2 cyl 2 stroke. This is a survivor that was put away in a friend's basement around 1980. 5000 original miles, 100% OE -- even has rotten OE tires. Will need a major go-over. Tires, brakes, forks, chassis and wheel bearings, engine seals, carbs. Completely rust free, not a spec of rust on the pipes. A few tank dents and scratches, so it will need paint.

3) 72 JAWA 350 Californian. 350 2 cyl 2 stroke. Same guy and story as above but has rusty pipes and missing one side cover. 10000 miles.

None of these are 'special' to me, so I'll probably sell each one as I finish it off. Its hard to place a value on them, Im guessing $2-3K if certified roadworthy.

Which one deserves to be first?
A version of the farmer joke:
A motorcyclist wins $10 million in a lottery and is asked what he's going to do.

He replies "I'm going to keep on restoring motorcycles until it's all gone."

I like restoring things and appreciate people that do it, keeping memories and heritages alive. But as an occupation / investment it sucks.
 
A version of the farmer joke:
A motorcyclist wins $10 million in a lottery and is asked what he's going to do.

He replies "I'm going to keep on restoring motorcycles until it's all gone."

I like restoring things and appreciate people that do it, keeping memories and heritages alive. But as an occupation / investment it sucks.
There is no money in restoring motorcycles - it's done for enjoyment -- at best you might break even if you don't count your time.

You can make money parting out old bikes. Normally there is a good supply of no-start cheap bikes that can be made roadworthy with tires, brakes, fuel system and ignition cleanup. Those are getting hard to find, and while prices are falling, they are still on a 'pandemic high'.

The last one I did was a little QT50. Bought it for $250 in rough shape. Repainted, and replaced cables, brake pads, seat cover, tires, and top end for <$350 in parts. It's a $1200 bike now, and I have about 16 hours of labor into it.

As a past time, it's not as pricy as boating or golf.
 
@Mad Mike I saw you finished your jeep. I wondered what was next on the lift.

357498283-10159571718801527-5332814022617187755-n.jpg


Obviously kidding although this monstrosity does travel around the GTA.
 
@Mad Mike I saw you finished your jeep. I wondered what was next on the lift.

357498283-10159571718801527-5332814022617187755-n.jpg


Obviously kidding although this monstrosity does travel around the GTA.
'69 Spitfire is up next for the car stock. So far the mechanical is checking out. Needs clutch master and a fist cap to run down the road. This is a freshen up, not a resto. Replace trunk pan, it's the only major rust repair necessary. Waiting for bead rollers to go on sale at PA.

Since my wife and daughter will be driving it, I'm doing a few dependability upgrades -- because they are easy and I'm not doing a period-correct resto.
1) Gas bonnet shocks (done). I can't stand the prop rods on e-types and Spitfires.
2) Ignition upgrade. I don't mind points, but an aftermarket electronic ignition conversion is the same price as points and a condenser. I'll probably replace the whole distributor with an aftermarket EI clone, available for about $100. Save time cleaning up a 50 year old.
3) Mikuni carb conversion. I have both single and dual carb manifolds, probably stick with a big single for ease of maintenance, but who knows. I don't like messing with Webers, they need way to much care. SU's are better, but have lots of things that can go wrong (complicated).
4) Charging upgrade: Change genny to alternator, delete regulator control box and voltage stabilizer modules.
5) Wiring harness replacement. Super simple and probably the biggest dependability upgrade available. The Brits were not big on relays or fuses which made it really hard on their low grade stitchgear.










I was able to trick some spark into her, but the dist cap connection to the main lead has disintegrated.
 
Wow holy $hit! That’s some awesome skills there @Mad Mike

I need to get better mechanically on bikes and cars!
 
Wow holy $hit! That’s some awesome skills there @Mad Mike

I need to get better mechanically on bikes and cars!
If you can overhaul an old motorcycle, the mechanical and electrical parts of an old car are easy to understand.

Body, chassis, and suspension are much bigger concerns on cars, they are the most difficult part of an overhaul. If you don't have (or are not willing to learn) metalworking skills, don't play with old cars!
 

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