Need new garage door springs in Mississauga

Relax

Well-known member
Almost exactly 12 years ago to the day, I had my garage door converted to high lift with new springs, pulleys, cables, and extended tracks. Today the opener would only lift the door about 6 inches and stop, then the door would slowly sink back down. Looked up and one of the 2 springs are broken. Trying to contact the company that installed it, but in the meantime any other recommendations for garage door service that understands high lift that services Mississauga?
 
I used moga in the past. He's in Brampton. I have no idea what he knows about high lift.

 
Hope you can get that garage door sorted out soon. I'm dreading the morning I can't get it up.
Modern metal doors aren't that bad even without springs. My old house had a wooden door and weighed many hundreds of pounds. Only access to garage was through overhead door. It was a real prick when the spring broke. Car jack to get it started, wood cribbing to hold it up, crawl under to get to floor jack, use floor jack amd cribbing to get it high enough to slide a two step under. Call moga and ask him to crawl under and install new spring.
 
I just changed my moms door springs, broken too.

It’s an easy DIY project. I got the springs from VEVOR off Amazon, $70 for the pair. Came with winding rods. You’ll need a wrench for the pinch bolts. You can measure the springs to determine the size. Bigger is better, you just can’t go smaller.

It’s a 30minute job for a first timer. Lots of YouTube vids on how too.
 
I just changed my moms door springs, broken too.

It’s an easy DIY project. I got the springs from VEVOR off Amazon, $70 for the pair. Came with winding rods. You’ll need a wrench for the pinch bolts. You can measure the springs to determine the size. Bigger is better, you just can’t go smaller.

It’s a 30minute job for a first timer. Lots of YouTube vids on how too.
I've done them at my current house and it's not a hard job. My concern at the old house is if I encountered an obstacle with the door closed and the tension rod disassembled (or in the process of reassembly), there was no escape and no easy way to get help. For winding rods, 3/8" socket extensions work reasonably well (although proper rods are better).
 
I've done them at my current house and it's not a hard job. My concern at the old house is if I encountered an obstacle with the door closed and the tension rod disassembled (or in the process of reassembly), there was no escape and no easy way to get help. For winding rods, 3/8" socket extensions work reasonably well (although proper rods are better).
Garages are not required to have an additional exit, but most do.

If you have no second door, pop a car jack under the door sill then replace your spring. All you need is about 14” to get out.
 
I just changed my moms door springs, broken too.

It’s an easy DIY project. I got the springs from VEVOR off Amazon, $70 for the pair. Came with winding rods. You’ll need a wrench for the pinch bolts. You can measure the springs to determine the size. Bigger is better, you just can’t go smaller.

It’s a 30minute job for a first timer. Lots of YouTube vids on how too.

The Vevor ads I saw included the wrench, and there's someone on FBMP selling one for $50 but doubt it will be the right size spring since mine is non-standard. I've watched videos of people doing them and it looks pretty straightforward, with the main concern being to fully insert the rod before winding/unwinding to the next stop. Surely the pinch bolts need to be crazy tight to keep it all together under that much tension?
 
I do have an entrance through my house, but I have a car up on the 4-post lift which I need to get down and out of the garage. Which means moving the bikes out from under it first. Coincidentally, I just finished decluttering and found an 8' 2x4 that was stored along the bottom of one wall. It will be perfect for propping up the door along with my under-hoist jack stand jack.
 
The Vevor ads I saw included the wrench, and there's someone on FBMP selling one for $50 but doubt it will be the right size spring since mine is non-standard. I've watched videos of people doing them and it looks pretty straightforward, with the main concern being to fully insert the rod before winding/unwinding to the next stop. Surely the pinch bolts need to be crazy tight to keep it all together under that much tension?
The bolts bite into the rod amd there are at least two. They need to be snug but not crazy tight. You can crush the rod and/or leave a big welt that makes it hard to adjust tension in the future if they are crazy tight.
 
Highly recommended in Milton.
Give him a try. He may come out Mississauga

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The Vevor ads I saw included the wrench, and there's someone on FBMP selling one for $50 but doubt it will be the right size spring since mine is non-standard. I've watched videos of people doing them and it looks pretty straightforward, with the main concern being to fully insert the rod before winding/unwinding to the next stop. Surely the pinch bolts need to be crazy tight to keep it all together under that much tension?
The pinch bolts are not under a lot of torque - surprisingly little. All they need to do is poke a small dimple into the tube. Put 1 turn on them once they contacts the spring shaft — only about 20ft lbs of torque.
 
The Vevor ads I saw included the wrench, and there's someone on FBMP selling one for $50 but doubt it will be the right size spring since mine is non-standard. I've watched videos of people doing them and it looks pretty straightforward, with the main concern being to fully insert the rod before winding/unwinding to the next stop. Surely the pinch bolts need to be crazy tight to keep it all together under that much tension?
I'm not a professional but try NOT to position yourself directly in front of the winding rods as your adjust them.

Also as GG and MM have said. Don't go crazy in the pinch bolts. You don't want to get yourself into a position where you need to replace the rod.
 
Modern metal doors aren't that bad even without springs. My old house had a wooden door and weighed many hundreds of pounds. Only access to garage was through overhead door. It was a real prick when the spring broke. Car jack to get it started, wood cribbing to hold it up, crawl under to get to floor jack, use floor jack amd cribbing to get it high enough to slide a two step under. Call moga and ask him to crawl under and install new spring.
Years ago, at a previous house, one spring broke on our double wooden door with both cars parked inside. That door weighed so much it wouldn't budge and I gained a new respect for the power of those springs and the strength of the two cables. I had to disassemble the door one panel at a time to get the cars out. I had to replace the springs and cables on that door a few times over the years.

These days I just call a local door guy to do it because I no longer want to screw around with that crap. We just had a brand new garage door installed, so I'm hoping to not have any problems for many many years.
 
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I had a cable break, fixed it and then rewound one of the torsion springs. Not a fun job. I used two 8" ratchet set extensions to wind the spring. As others have said keep your face out of the way should you slip and the rod you're using goes flying across the room. Also, move anything of value in the garage out of the line of fire.

When I had a spring break I looked around for the correct springs as you should replace both at the same time, and then decided to just hire someone to do the spring replacement and the rewind.

"Dan the Man" was the guy I used. He replaced both springs, did the rewind and then said he'd check the rollers for wear. I thought here is where I get screwed over. He checked both sides and replaced 3 or 4 rollers and then said this was included in the total quoted price he'd already provided to me.........

So, he did a great job and the overall cost was what he quoted on the phone, and 10+ years later all remains good.
 
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