My first winter

L

L1l1th

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Hey everyone!

I'm sad I have to put away my new toy for a while (250R) :) I've been riding up until early November, and haven't done the "winterization" yet. I'm keeping the bike in the attached garage, so its fairy "warm" in there, always a few degrees warmer than outside.

Now, do I really need to change oil and drain the fuel? Seems a little extreme given it'll be stored for only 3 months, maybe 4 tops. Also, the battery looses charge much slower in cold temperatures, does it have to be removed as well? I think batteries are removed to keep away from extreme temps (ie -15C or lower), so does this still apply to our winters?
 
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Change the oil at your regular mileage interval, anything more is overkill. Add stabilizer to the fuel, run it thru the fuel system. Top up fuel tank. Put battery on a tender. I like to douse my bike with WD-40 for moisture control. (back in the day when I didn't have heated space).
 
put a plastic bag over the exhaust (after bike has cooled down)

...don't want to see creepy mice hiding in there when you go to fire the bike up :blob4:
 
sid_for_speed said:
put a plastic bag over the exhaust (after bike has cooled down)

...don't want to see creepy mice hiding in there when you go to fire the bike up :blob4:
Click to expand...

Plastic bag isnt going to stop mice.
You wouldnt need to plug it with something they cant chew to keep them out for sure.

Some critter like to store pine cones inside all my stuff.
 
sid_for_speed said:
put a plastic bag over the exhaust (after bike has cooled down)

...don't want to see creepy mice hiding in there when you go to fire the bike up :blob4:
Click to expand...
6d23b55a82e5e6653f8c26ca5fa4e5c1.jpg
 
01cbr said:
Plastic bag isnt going to stop mice.
You wouldnt need to plug it with something they cant chew to keep them out for sure.

Some critter like to store pine cones inside all my stuff.
Click to expand...

Steel wool...mice will not attempt to chew through that.
 
Thanks for all the responses dudes. But I didnt see a clear response - do I need (1) to drain fuel tank, and (2) change oil & filter _now_.


I am going to change oil in the spring/early summer.


It will be warm this Monday, so I will put in a stabilizer in the tank, fill her up, and take the bike for a spin. I'll lube the chain and whatnot, and cover the bike with a bedsheet. Good enough?

Also, what's the recommended brand of stabilizer?
 
I think all of your questions were answered. There is a ton of winterization tips in the first sticky in the technical section.
 
L1l1th said:
Thanks for all the responses dudes. But I didnt see a clear response - do I need (1) to drain fuel tank, and (2) change oil & filter _now_.
Click to expand...

Nice to see a fresh batch of comedians coming thru, just in time for winter.
 
If it's close to the regular oil change interval, change the oil and filter now and don't bother in the spring. It's better to top up the tank to the very top...less air space to have moisture condensing in the temp changes over storage. Stabilizer isn't really needed if for less than about 6 months. IMHO If you do use stabilizer(doesn't hurt), add the recommended amount before the last fill up and run it thru the carbs, etc. I don't drain if only for a short time. Remember to rotate the tires every month or so, just move it a foot or so...or store on stands. If storing on tires, some say to place them on some wood as a insulator from the cement. Not sure it's needed, but can't hurt. Batt doesn't have to be removed, but disconnect it if you have anything drawing on it. A charge once a month for an hour or 2 with a 1A charger keeps it topped up.
 
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No, just buy a trickle charger and plug it to your battery. No need for an oil change or drain the gas.

L1l1th said:
Thanks for all the responses dudes. But I didnt see a clear response - do I need (1) to drain fuel tank, and (2) change oil & filter _now_.


I am going to change oil in the spring/early summer.


It will be warm this Monday, so I will put in a stabilizer in the tank, fill her up, and take the bike for a spin. I'll lube the chain and whatnot, and cover the bike with a bedsheet. Good enough?

Also, what's the recommended brand of stabilizer?
Click to expand...
 
Brand??
The cheapest ;)

Don't fret. Battery is really your only concern and even that not much in a warm garage.
Don't start and run your bike for a few minutes....that's bad for it. If you are going to run it it needs to come to full operating temp. Just let it sleep the snow away.
 
L1l1th said:
Thanks for all the responses dudes. But I didnt see a clear response - do I need (1) to drain fuel tank, and (2) change oil & filter _now_.


I am going to change oil in the spring/early summer.


It will be warm this Monday, so I will put in a stabilizer in the tank, fill her up, and take the bike for a spin. I'll lube the chain and whatnot, and cover the bike with a bedsheet. Good enough?

Also, what's the recommended brand of stabilizer?
Click to expand...
All your answers are in the second post.
 
L1l1th said:
Thanks for all the responses dudes. But I didnt see a clear response - do I need (1) to drain fuel tank, and (2) change oil & filter _now_.


I am going to change oil in the spring/early summer.


It will be warm this Monday, so I will put in a stabilizer in the tank, fill her up, and take the bike for a spin. I'll lube the chain and whatnot, and cover the bike with a bedsheet. Good enough?

Also, what's the recommended brand of stabilizer?
Click to expand...

Can't fail winterization:

1) FILL fuel tank to top. Put in fuel stabilizer, slosh it around until it is well mixed.
2) Start bike and let it run until completely warmed up. Shut off fuel petcock and let bike run until it stalls. Carb is now drained and any fuel in bike is stabilized. If it's fuel injection run it until warm and shut it off, nothing else is really necessary.
3) Get battery "Smart" charger/maintainer from Canadian Tire ($20-$30 depending if it is on sale). Attach removable plug to battery, plug it in and leave it that way for the winter.
4) Get a can of Rust Chek (red runny stuff) and spray liberally on all corrosion prone parts (basically anything chrome, aluminum or iron). Don't spray it on the engine block. Remember, you can wash this stuff off any time, but you can't wash off rust.
5) Cover it with an old sleeping bag or moving blanket (because someone WILL drop something on it during the winter, like a wrench or snow shovel).
6) Cover bike with a bike cover available at Wal-Mart, Princess Auto or any motorcycle dealer.
7) Make sure it is parked out of harm's way. Say goodnight to it until April, when all you have to do is disconnect the charger, turn on the petcock for a couple of minutes and start it up.

Note: Oil does not need to be changed unless you have more than 3000km on it. Acids build up after that (suphuric acid, etc.) that can accelerate deterioration of gaskets and other components.


This worked for me for 10 years. Never a problem related to storage.
 
L1l1th said:
Now, do I really need to change oil and drain the fuel? Seems a little extreme given it'll be stored for only 3 months, maybe 4 tops. Also, the battery looses charge much slower in cold temperatures, does it have to be removed as well? I think batteries are removed to keep away from extreme temps (ie -15C or lower), so does this still apply to our winters?
Click to expand...

leave the oil, add fuel stabilizer, but make sure you run that fuel through the carbs. Any fuel stabilizer is ok. Duct tape over the exhaust.
Remove the battery and bring it inside, keep it on a battery tender. It will last years longer.
I've never had a carb gum up using stabilizer on any of my small engines or bikes. Just make sure the last tank of gas does not have ethanol.
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