You kidding. Pretty sure most drivers around me are deaf.
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Lithium batteries again....
- Thread starter jc100
- Start date
You kidding. Pretty sure most drivers around me are deaf.
RIDER!!!!!
Relax
Well-known member
A bad A/C compressor clutch relay on my Acura is one of a few common root causes of parasitic draw causing the battery to drain. That said, connect 12v directly to your horn to make sure it actually works.
Slightly unlikely. More likely to be a wire rubbed through and shorted to ground. If the relay is stuck closed, the horn should be blasting. If it's stuck open, there should be no circuit and no draw.
J_F
Guest
@jc100
what did you end up doing with your battery?
I have the Aprilia warm start compression lock problem on this Capo
almost got stranded with it today....fired on what I think was it's last go at cranking
Aprilia forums are populated with Brits and Yanks that don't get cold weather
they all recommend the Shorai, but it needs an expensive tender
the EarthX sounds better as it can be used with a regular battery tender
but it's not as easy to get and is more $$
what did you end up doing with your battery?
I have the Aprilia warm start compression lock problem on this Capo
almost got stranded with it today....fired on what I think was it's last go at cranking
Aprilia forums are populated with Brits and Yanks that don't get cold weather
they all recommend the Shorai, but it needs an expensive tender
the EarthX sounds better as it can be used with a regular battery tender
but it's not as easy to get and is more $$
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J_F
Guest
haven't had to do that, and plan to rectify the problem first
1,200cc split over 2 cyls @ 12:1 ratio, don't think a bump start is gonna work
Lithium battery in my retired race bike (Yamaha FZR400). Old skool electrical system with no fancy electronics, the ignition switch turns everything off, no clock no nothing so no parasitic draw. After a year and a half sitting, I put some fuel in the tank and started it up without issue, didn't have to touch the battery.
J_F
Guest
alrighty then, bike on the tender all night after getting home
got the meter on it, as follows:
tender off, key off, voltage at battery terminals - 12.8 V
key on - 12.3 V
cranking, battery is pulled down to just over 10 V
cold starts no problem, with charging sys at idle - 14.3 V
turn on high beams, heated grips and driving lights - 14.8 V @ idle
several cold starts - same result....all good so far
leave bike idling until it comes up to temp - fan comes on - shut engine off
key off voltage - 12.8
key on voltage - 12.3
first start - cranks couple of revs, stutters and fires - battery voltage pilled down to 8 V
second warm start - same thing
third warm start - cranks a few revs, locks up, cluster goes dark - battery pulled down to 6 V
engine does not fire
so I'm surmising the battery does not have sufficient CCA to crank the warm engine
cold is fine as compression is a bit lower, ratio comes up to the 12:1 spec when warm
charging sys appears to be fine
don't see it as a battery cable problem - measuring voltage @ battery terminals
insufficient current carrying capacity across cables would not give me that large voltage drop
can't see a starter being affected by temp - so it's ruled out
what do the tech heads here think?
kind of think being on the tender all night the batt should be higher than 12.8 V
bike has ~5,000 km on it, 3 years old, original owner had it wired for the tender
claims to have plugged it in 24/7, but obviously didn't ride it, had 1,500 on it @ 2 years old
got the meter on it, as follows:
tender off, key off, voltage at battery terminals - 12.8 V
key on - 12.3 V
cranking, battery is pulled down to just over 10 V
cold starts no problem, with charging sys at idle - 14.3 V
turn on high beams, heated grips and driving lights - 14.8 V @ idle
several cold starts - same result....all good so far
leave bike idling until it comes up to temp - fan comes on - shut engine off
key off voltage - 12.8
key on voltage - 12.3
first start - cranks couple of revs, stutters and fires - battery voltage pilled down to 8 V
second warm start - same thing
third warm start - cranks a few revs, locks up, cluster goes dark - battery pulled down to 6 V
engine does not fire
so I'm surmising the battery does not have sufficient CCA to crank the warm engine
cold is fine as compression is a bit lower, ratio comes up to the 12:1 spec when warm
charging sys appears to be fine
don't see it as a battery cable problem - measuring voltage @ battery terminals
insufficient current carrying capacity across cables would not give me that large voltage drop
can't see a starter being affected by temp - so it's ruled out
what do the tech heads here think?
kind of think being on the tender all night the batt should be higher than 12.8 V
bike has ~5,000 km on it, 3 years old, original owner had it wired for the tender
claims to have plugged it in 24/7, but obviously didn't ride it, had 1,500 on it @ 2 years old
Trials
Well-known member
My MV bumps easy if you just turn on the key while you are rolling, there should be just enough juice to pressure up the fuel pump then it doesn't need much speed or hill to start, if it slides your tires must be crap.
They put the smallest batteries possible on these bikes, battery needs to be perfect or it will let you down.
J_F
Guest
second part of your post applies
first part you reverted to the old Trials, lol
yeah I'm leaning towards a bad battery
tested the tender and it is working fine
12.8 resting voltage I guess is okay
but it should not fall on it's azz down to 6 volts after just a few starting attempts
don't have an amp clamp to see cranking current
but a starter circuit problem would not be temp affected I don't think
just need more oomph
first part you reverted to the old Trials, lol
yeah I'm leaning towards a bad battery
tested the tender and it is working fine
12.8 resting voltage I guess is okay
but it should not fall on it's azz down to 6 volts after just a few starting attempts
don't have an amp clamp to see cranking current
but a starter circuit problem would not be temp affected I don't think
just need more oomph
J_F
Guest
agree
and yes, lots of Italian sh1t stays powered up when key off
put my proper charger on it and after doing it's calibration thing
is indicating battery at 25% charge state
tender puts out only one amp
so it is able bring surface voltage up to spec
but under load the batt falls on it's azz
I'm leaning towards a sulphated battery problem
from lack of use and maybe previous owner did not plug it in much
his toy box was full of other goodies
did not have much interest in the bike
gonna order a new YUASA lead/acid battery
not sold on those lithium things for this application
I like to ride in the shoulders of the season, when it's cold
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