Lithium batteries again.... | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Lithium batteries again....

DJM

Well-known member
Site Supporter
For OP's bike:

Yuasa YTZ14S standard AGM:
230CCA 11.8AH
$240.00 1 year@100% Warranty

Shorai LFX19A4-BS12 Lithium
285CCA 19AH
$262.00 5 year pro-rated, 1st year@100% only

EarthX ETX24C Lithium
270CCA 7.8AH
$316.00 2 year@100%

I went with EarthX because of it's internal protection circuitry and the fact that they OEM supply aircraft. Good enough for me.
 

Trials

Well-known member
Try CC Battery Outlet in Gan Trenton and Carlton Place, will probably be the lowest price and their batteries seem to last just fine.
 

busabim

Well-known member
Site Supporter
FYI bike was BMW s1000R, undersized IMHO ( ytx -9 ) from the factory. No warranty unless plugged in to BMW charger.

Battery was meticulously maintained and plugged in during winter storage and at my home when not riding. It failed at 15 months, no warranty. Stranded me on the highway early sunday morning. Luckily a guy had jumper cables so I could get it to start to get home. Absolutely no warning whatsoever. My current bike has voltage on the display.

"It's extremely rare for a battery to just spontaneously fail in the fashion you describe. They typically give you lots of notice. You could just as have that $500 battery fail at it's end of life the same as a cheapo SLA would. Given how LiPo batteries tend to fail and die actually, it could actually be far more sudden and unexpected actually, with perhaps no warning at all like a SLA would give you." Pure BS, bike started that morning and wouldnt restart!

Moreover, it is easier to tell when lithium battery is going to fail by the resting voltage. Look it up. Will never replace with a lead acid again
 
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Trials

Well-known member
Whaaaaaaat? That's a crazy deal! How can I get in on this - I didn't see it on the EarthX site?
Is easy, you buy a bike like my K100RS that takes a lawn tractor sized battery and you can buy lawn tractor batteries almost anywhere super cheap. Try CC Battery Outlet for motorcycle special sized batteries, that's what I'm running in my MV right now, was under a hundred bucks but that was a few years ago now, it's still good so far.
 

Relax

Well-known member
Is easy, you buy a bike like my K100RS that takes a lawn tractor sized battery and you can buy lawn tractor batteries almost anywhere super cheap. Try CC Battery Outlet for motorcycle special sized batteries, that's what I'm running in my MV right now, was under a hundred bucks but that was a few years ago now, it's still good so far.
Oh, I thought you meant $80 for an EarthX battery with a competitive trade-in. In that case, you might as well just buy a Kapsco Moto battery for $35. I hear they're pretty good (for lead acid).

All of my bikes (except the Hawk) are twins and can have problems starting because the manufacturers spec'd the smallest starters and batteries they could to JUST turn them over. Design-wise, that's perfectly acceptable, except they didn't factor in reduced cranking power due to cold or age. When I hit the starter on my 998, it barely starts to crank, immediately pauses for a good half to full second, then continues and eventually starts. You know the battery has failed when it doesn't get past the pause, and you're stranded. The stock Yuasa is rated for 210 CCA, but there's no room for a larger CCA lead acid (without cutting into the fairing). By going lithium I have many more options, including the same CCA in a smaller size, up to 360 CCA with an equivalent size, and a few in between options.
 

DJM

Well-known member
Site Supporter
If you compare the two lithium brands I mentioned, the Earthx has the protection circuitry that should extend its service life and protect it from boneheaded moves like shorting it out.
 

Delboy

Well-known member
I've been running the small 4 cell Antigravity on my RZ and CB350 race bikes for 3-4 years. The CB still has a starter 😁

They have been really good and pretty much maintenance free, I've never removed them or charged them since they were installed and overheating has not been an issue.

I was initially worried as there is no built-in BMS but its been fine, although I did change out the R/R's for ones with a set point of 14.0 volts. Its probably not a bad thing anyway as the ones on the Honda were 50 years old, although there were still outputting 14.5V 😲

I did this mainly because of size as the frames and seats are so altered there was no way to get even a little YTZ AGM battery in there. On my street bike I'm still using an AGM
 

jc100

Well-known member
For OP's bike:

Yuasa YTZ14S standard AGM:
230CCA 11.8AH
$240.00 1 year@100% Warranty

Shorai LFX19A4-BS12 Lithium
285CCA 19AH
$262.00 5 year pro-rated, 1st year@100% only

EarthX ETX24C Lithium
270CCA 7.8AH
$316.00 2 year@100%

I went with EarthX because of it's internal protection circuitry and the fact that they OEM supply aircraft. Good enough for me.
Where did you get that EarthX for that price? I was looking at the model one up from that for overcapacity.

Edit: the 36C is recommended for the KTM big twins as it has the most similar characteristics to the OEM battery (but with enhanced CCA). That’s $459 from motorcycle innovations.
 
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DJM

Well-known member
Site Supporter
That’s too bad on the D fitment. Where is it located on the KTM ?
 

Wingboy

Well-known member
Moderator
Site Supporter
Oh, I thought you meant $80 for an EarthX battery with a competitive trade-in. In that case, you might as well just buy a Kapsco Moto battery for $35. I hear they're pretty good (for lead acid).

All of my bikes (except the Hawk) are twins and can have problems starting because the manufacturers spec'd the smallest starters and batteries they could to JUST turn them over. Design-wise, that's perfectly acceptable, except they didn't factor in reduced cranking power due to cold or age. When I hit the starter on my 998, it barely starts to crank, immediately pauses for a good half to full second, then continues and eventually starts. You know the battery has failed when it doesn't get past the pause, and you're stranded. The stock Yuasa is rated for 210 CCA, but there's no room for a larger CCA lead acid (without cutting into the fairing). By going lithium I have many more options, including the same CCA in a smaller size, up to 360 CCA with an equivalent size, and a few in between options.
Most Ducati's are like that. A heavier positive cable can make a big difference.
 

jc100

Well-known member
That’s too bad on the D fitment. Where is it located on the KTM ?
Just underneath the front part of the passenger seat but the KTM has a large processor/fuse box right next to the battery so between that and the frame members supporting the seat there’s no room for anything bigger than OEM.
 

DJM

Well-known member
Site Supporter
Well there's also the Antigravity ATX12 option, but they were back-ordered for my bike when I looked them up. They have a BMS as well.
 

jc100

Well-known member
Well......my battery seems fine now. Standing voltage of 12.3V up to 14.5V when the bike is turning over. Started first time after 3 days cold. Suspecting that water got into somewhere it shouldn’t perhaps when I cleaned it or something was causing a parasitic draw. Mystery.
 

jc100

Well-known member
More mystery....my Stebel type air horn isn’t working. It is wired in via a relay triggered from the OEM horn with a wire directly from the battery for power. Haven’t had time to check fuses/connections etc but is there any way a damaged relay could cause a parasitic draw or a battery to fail? I don’t have time to take plastics off for another day or two but at least I may have found the culprit for the battery drainage.
 

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