Just to put things in perspective (Opinion) | Page 4 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Just to put things in perspective (Opinion)

You molded rubber parts before? I'm impressed at the flexibility of that 3D printed part. A lot of the "cost" in the 3D printing is someone putting in the time to make the computer model (and test parts/modifications). If you are just paying for machine time and filament, that is a lot lower number.

For me it would be re-inventing the wheel, experimenting with materials that would do the job but be makable without tools that would set me back the price of a Toronto house. In that sense items made before plastic are easier to copy. Metals, wood and leather are easier to work than a lot of plastic.
 
I would have been old school. Molds etc.
Do you have any idea of costs? Old school, 3D, and a 40 year old NOS that might not be worth using

Like GreyGhost said, most of the time is in learning how to run the printer and CAD software, etc. Luckily that's another hobby of mine so it was no sweat off my back. But for someone with no experience in CNC-related stuff, it would be a decent-sized undertaking I imagine

Material cost for me was probably a dollar or two, on that intake boot. You can get a kilogram of the flexible filament for $30 or so

Doing it properly with molds, oh boy that would be awesome. I saw a website a while back that specialized in doing rubber parts for old bikes, because its getting harder and harder to find used or NOS that is worth the price. I suppose the bonus there is the cost is usually in the mold manufacturing process, so once they have the molds, they can bang out parts as needed
 
Like GreyGhost said, most of the time is in learning how to run the printer and CAD software, etc. Luckily that's another hobby of mine so it was no sweat off my back. But for someone with no experience in CNC-related stuff, it would be a decent-sized undertaking I imagine

Material cost for me was probably a dollar or two, on that intake boot. You can get a kilogram of the flexible filament for $30 or so

Doing it properly with molds, oh boy that would be awesome. I saw a website a while back that specialized in doing rubber parts for old bikes, because its getting harder and harder to find used or NOS that is worth the price. I suppose the bonus there is the cost is usually in the mold manufacturing process, so once they have the molds, they can bang out parts as needed

One of my customers had two obsolete controllers and it was $3,000 each to replace them with modern ones. The part failures were rubber gaskets worth $5 each but they were no longer available. The rubber had to be a specific thickness, UV resistant with certain electrical qualities.

After a day or so of hunting I found some material that the supplier "THOUGHT" would work but I had to buy a $2000 roll. I needed two square feet. Then I'd have to make stamping dies etc. My client went for the new controllers.

I worked in injection molding decades ago and making the second one of those boots would be cheap. The first one would cost you your firstborn.

I would be looking at two part silicones or poly somethings to make a functioning part. Concours would be out of the question.

Making hobby items for friends is nice. Maybe a few bucks or bottles change hands but transitioning to production isn't easy. It's worse if you find out that the part is safety oriented and an error on your part gets someone hurt and you get sued. Suddenly you're an incorporated company with all the associated responsibilities.
 
I'm just tired of having to explain to people I meet why buying an old P.O.S. is a frustrating waste, as opposed to maybe finding something much newer and riding (instead of wrenching) is a good idea.
If I handed you the keys to a 1976 Chev Impala would you plan on making it your daily driver ? I doubt it.
Your results and opinions, of course, may differ.
Sorry, but it's not a waste, it's up to the individuals. Many of us like to learn and tinker. There are groups for every retro bike and lots of help out there. Besides we get to keep adding to the harem....live within your means, BUT live. Cheers
 
Sorry, but it's not a waste, it's up to the individuals. Many of us like to learn and tinker. There are groups for every retro bike and lots of help out there. Besides we get to keep adding to the harem....live within your means, BUT live. Cheers
Its a frustration if you don't know what you're doing and must rely on others - at a price.
Its a frustration if if you put yourself under an unrealistic time constraint.
Its a frustration if you have an unrealistic expectation of what you'll have when you're done.
Do what you want, but go into it with both eyes wide open, this applies to a lot of things in life.
Let's do some simple math and go back to 1996 - that's TWENTY FIVE YEARS. A lot can change in 25 years.
 
I agree, but that's how I learned, it's not for everyone. But for the true enthusiasts there is nothing like it. The older bikes are easier to work on, no computers. But yes they have come a long way in 25 years.
 
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Sorry, but it's not a waste, it's up to the individuals. Many of us like to learn and tinker. There are groups for every retro bike and lots of help out there. Besides we get to keep adding to the harem....live within your means, BUT live. Cheers
I'm rebuilding my old 76 sohc750 and find tinkering with it therapeutic. That said when it comes restoring a motorcycle I always like to offer up the suggestion of a good friend. "If you want to restore bike ABC go find the very best example of one you can and buy"
 
I'm rebuilding my old 76 sohc750 and find tinkering with it therapeutic. That said when it comes restoring a motorcycle I always like to offer up the suggestion of a good friend. "If you want to restore bike ABC go find the very best example of one you can and buy"
Also, pick the most valuable version of the vehicle. In most cases, restoration cost is very similar but if you end up with a more desirable product at the end, you lose less money (eg. restore a first or last year of the model you want and the upfront and restoration cost is likely the same but you end up with a more desirable product).
 
Also, pick the most valuable version of the vehicle. In most cases, restoration cost is very similar but if you end up with a more desirable product at the end, you lose less money (eg. restore a first or last year of the model you want and the upfront and restoration cost is likely the same but you end up with a more desirable product).
Are you buying to ride it or turn it into an expensive coffee table ? Nostalgia ain't what it used to be.
 
I'm rebuilding my old 76 sohc750 and find tinkering with it therapeutic. That said when it comes restoring a motorcycle I always like to offer up the suggestion of a good friend. "If you want to restore bike ABC go find the very best example of one you can and buy"
Great bike, they led the way for inline fours...and yes I agree buy the best you can. If you ever find a 1969 jump on it. Good luck with the rebuild.
 
No trailer Queens. (the more I polish aluminum the bigger a fan of flat black I am)
As for nostalgia. I flogged that 750 for eight years (1994 - 2002) and found it a great ride. I am very much looking forward to doing it again.
 
Great bike, they led the way for inline fours...and yes I agree buy the best you can. If you ever find a 1969 jump on it. Good luck with the rebuild.
Its funny - 1969 and 1970 sand cast CB750s are the most desirable but not the nicest to actually own.
Good luck finding one that hasn't had the chain tossed through the sandcast cases (which sweated oil), and had the horrible 1-4 throttle cables.
The later versions were definitely better machines - kept in the 1970s context.
 
Its funny - 1969 and 1970 sand cast CB750s are the most desirable but not the nicest to actually own.
Good luck finding one that hasn't had the chain tossed through the sandcast cases (which sweated oil), and had the horrible 1-4 throttle cables.
The later versions were definitely better machines - kept in the 1970s context.
Wasn't just the sandcast that tossed the chain. Mine tossed one heading into work one morning.
 
Wasn't just the sandcast that tossed the chain. Mine tossed one heading into work one morning.
Technology was definitely lacking.
The early ones ran 17/45 gearing and it kicked the chain over too hard, that's why the later ones had 18/48.
 
There was some talk about the battery over flow line emptying on or near the chain.
 

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