I hate plumbing | GTAMotorcycle.com

I hate plumbing

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nobbie48

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but I have to do it from time to time. I decided to run a trap seal line from the laundry taps to the floor drain. I tapped off the spray nozzle added a tee and valve and will run to the drain. Unfortunately in doing so I disturbed just about everything under the sink. The 30 year old shut off valves are now leaking and I'm thinking of replacing them but no sure of what type to use. Under sink valves that leak are a pain because it requires a full house shut down to fix.

My question is what is the best type of valve, I like the ball vale type but not sure of quality or longevity. Would I be better off to fix the old ones?
 
1/4 turn ball valve is the best option. They use nylon sleeves for the seal instead of rubber like a gate valve (breaks down). The cheaper gate valves also use a plastic stems which gets damaged easily.

Pex + a crimper tool makes retrofits super quick.
 
I don't think shut of valves are of any value, all they do is make changing a faucet a bit easier in exchange for an extra leak point. Why not just plumb your taps in directly? I believe the Ontario building code only requires a shutoff at the supply, everything else is redundant and a potential leak point (as you just found out).

If you decide to put them in... My BBQ guest tonight runs the sales desk for Emco, he says use Dahl ball valves. $10 each, they will outlive you.
 
Mad Mike said:
I don't think shut of valves are of any value, all they do is make changing a faucet a bit easier in exchange for an extra leak point. Why not just plumb your taps in directly? I believe the Ontario building code only requires a shutoff at the supply, everything else is redundant and a potential leak point (as you just found out).

If you decide to put them in... My BBQ guest tonight runs the sales desk for Emco, he says use Dahl ball valves. $10 each, they will outlive you.
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I only have shutoff valves on my toilets and kitchen sink. They came in real handy when I had to replace the dishwasher and replace the toilet valves. Shutting off the main water supply is a real headache when you have to coordinate with everyone so nobody has to use the water for things like going to the washroom (or more importantly, washing their hands after) while I muck around with whatever I'm fixing, which might not be done the same day (like replacing the laundry sink and faucet). Needless to say, if I have to fix an area of plumbing that doesn't have a shutoff, I'm adding one while I'm in there. I plan on using the Shark Bite/Push'NConnect style since they're easy to install and easy to replace if they go bad.
 
I would personally avoid shark bite. Many people love them, but I have helped someone gut/rebuild their basement after a shark bite blew and flooded it. I havent seen other problems, so it was probably not installed correctly, but one $40,000 problem is enough for me. I have no problems with shark bite as a temporary solution (and for that, they are probably the best), but for me I want pex or solder for a permanent solution.
 
I like shark bite, but now 15 yrs into the market we are seeing some failures in the soft gasket that seals them. Dont bury one inside a wall when you plumb your basement reno.
I put shutoffs everywhere, yes they can be a pain but shutting two valves to change out a faucet is just fine with me. 1/4 turn DHAL ball valves (canadian made I think) are my preference
 
FLSTC said:
+++ for the dahl ball valves.

Be careful if you're sweating a valve onto copper pipe - might get some damage from the heat. Possibility that replacing the washers in your current shut offs may end up to be less work.
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The problem is they are two different brands and being shut offs I won't know what I need until I take things apart. Then the trip to the big box, house without water etc.

Soldering isn't a problem with the present type as all the heat sensitive parts can be removed and replaced once the body has cooled. Usually not a problem if the valve is in the open position while soldering. I'm not sure if there is a preferred position for the ball valves.
 
nobbie48 said:
The problem is they are two different brands and being shut offs I won't know what I need until I take things apart. Then the trip to the big box, house without water etc.

Soldering isn't a problem with the present type as all the heat sensitive parts can be removed and replaced once the body has cooled. Usually not a problem if the valve is in the open position while soldering. I'm not sure if there is a preferred position for the ball valves.
Click to expand...
I always wrap the valve bodies in a soaking wet rag. I can get enough heat into the fitting that way without the body getting too hot. If the access really sucks, I will solder a pipe stub into the valve on the workbench and then just solder a coupler under the sink so the heat is well away from the valve.
 
GreyGhost said:
I always wrap the valve bodies in a soaking wet rag. I can get enough heat into the fitting that way without the body getting too hot. If the access really sucks, I will solder a pipe stub into the valve on the workbench and then just solder a coupler under the sink so the heat is well away from the valve.
Click to expand...

I took your tip and made up sub assemblies. I held the valve bodies in a steel vise for the soldering. It made the job easier and acted as a heat sink. Access stunk. The job is done except for running the trap seal line. That will hopefully be relatively simple.

The trap seal is teed off the rinse nozzle so whenever the taps are turned on the floor drain will get filled. Floor drains worked well in the days of wringer washers and weekly laundry.

So far no flooding. I either have to do more plumbing and get better at it or quit while I'm still sane.
 
no offence to plumbers, everybody is entitled to a nice living after a 5 yr apprenticeship , but I can fool around for a long time under the sink for plumber money
 
Three things a plumber needs to know.....
1) payday is Friday
2) **** won't flow uphill
3) payday is Friday
 
When I built my house I did all the plumbing, using Pex after the initial copper header. The only thing I was concerned about was the final drain connections to the shower and tub on the upper level as a leak there would end up ruining my ceiling in the dining room. Called a plumber to do those connections and he said easy-peasy, be back in a couple of days. Never showed and I finally just did them myself the day before the drywallers arrived. six years now and no leaks; finger crossed. And I put quarter turn shutoffs everywhere I would be able to reach.
 
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