How much valve noise is ok?

Matt Rain

Matt Rain

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I adjusted the intake valves on my FJ600 last Friday, then I re-synced the carbs and reset the idle. As a result, the bike has never run better, but now I get a very clear ticking sound from the valvetrain. It quiets down somewhat as the bike reaches operating temperature, but it's still very noticeable. I know that tappy valves are supposed to be happy valves, but I'm thinking that mine may be a tad too happy.

I rechecked the clearances while the engine was cold and all are within spec, though one is at the upper end of the range (0.006") I'd re-shim it, but the next biggest size I have is 0.1mm thicker, which would bring the clearance back out of spec, to 0.002" and change (minimum is 0.004")

I'll try to post a vid later today, hopefully my iPhone can pick up the ticking/clicking noise.
 
Here's a quick vid I just shot:

[video=youtube;KRNZj2yfDHM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRNZj2yfDHM[/video]

Does that sound normal to y'alls experienced ears?
 
I would say fine. If they are in spec and the bike is running well no worries. Valves are just like kids, when they go quite you have to get concerned what they are up to.
 
You sure is valve noise? Sounds more like cam chain to me. Either way is valves are within spec you are good. I would suggest resetting the CCT and/or try getting a small screwdriver in there and get a bit of pressure in it while running see if it doesnt get quiet. The spring that loads it gets weaker over time and lets face it the FJ is no spring chicken.
 
Good point about the CCT, I assumed it was the valves because it sounds like a mild metallic hammering, but I don't really know about these things. I'll pull the cover and check the chain, thanks.
 
My second bike was a YX600, basically same motor, and there was an infuriating tick I could never get rid of. I can't tell much from your video unfortunately, my laptop makes it sound like you have dropped valves or something, and I think you would notice if that were the case.

I can tell you this, as the whole experience taught me a lot about valve adjustments in general:
-Don't try to infer too much from the noisiness of valves, but keep this in mind: Valve adjustments do not decrease valvetrain noise! If the valves were previously tight, they will actually increase it.
-That motor has a "semi-automatic" CCT. It requires periodic adjustment - not gonna try and describe the procedure from memory, cause I don't remember. It's probably never been adjusted, but it doesn't require a LOT of adjustment, the interval is pretty large. That alone could reduce the ticking, but
-That motor also has an internal primary drive chain. IIRC there is an internal tensioner for that as well but it is not adjustable. If you can eliminate everything else that will probably be the source of the ticking. Unfortunately fixing the ticking in this case will not be a small job.
 
Thanks TK, good tips.

I'm pretty confident it's either loose valves, which I wouldn't try to fix, or the CCT as kd88 mentioned.

When I adjusted the valves I unscrewed the intake camshaft and raised it a bit to be able to remove the valve shims (I was never able to figure out how to use the stupid Yamaha tool to keep the lifter down), so it's entirely possible I fudged up something on the cam chain.

Hoping it's just that.
 
I just tried adjusting the CCT and it didn't have any effect on the noise level.

I felt the CCT's spring expand quite a bit when I loosened the lock nut, then I tightened the adjusting bolt by roughly 1/8 of a turn. Maybe that was too timid an adjustment, will try again after work.
 
If the CCT tensioner spring is shot, then adjustment won't help. Does the ticking lessen when the engine is warm?
 
Pretty sure it's the one loose valve that's making the sound. I listened to a bunch of "cam chain noise" vids on Youtube and that's not it. Mine is more of a constant bell-like tapping sound that seems to match the RPM.
 
Further tightened the CCT - I think it got rid of a whooshing sound on deceleration, but the metallic ticking is still the same.

I give up for now. Bike runs great. *shrug*
 
So I snapped the cam chain tensioner bolt right off. *facepalm* I ran the engine then I loosened the CCT bolt completely to produce maximum cam chain noise, then I re-tightened and the bolt head snapped with no effort at all.

At least whats left of the bolt is basically where it originally was.

But fok.
 
Matt Rain said:
So I snapped the cam chain tensioner bolt right off. *facepalm* I ran the engine then I loosened the CCT bolt completely to produce maximum cam chain noise, then I re-tightened and the bolt head snapped with no effort at all.

At least whats left of the bolt is basically where it originally was.

But fok.
Click to expand...

If I understand you correctly, then at least it's an easy fix. There are two bolts on either side of the CCT that hold it in - just unbolt those and the whole assembly should easily pop out. Don't remember if you have room to pull it out without removing anything else, but you should be able to figure that out.

Dunno how much a new CCT will cost you, though. And for future reference, the CCT bolt takes very little torque to tighten. I think the spec is given in inch-pounds, probably can duplicate that with a gentle finger tightening (but check your manual to be sure)

Edit: Oh yeah, make sure you get a new gasket with the new/new used CCT
 
Yes, I'm an idiot. Looking at a diagram of my CCT, I just realized that the adjusting bolt is not the one that pushes the actual tensioner, it merely freezes things. Doh.

Getting that bolt out shouldn't be too hard, and I need to pull out the CCT anyway to make sure it's working correctly.
 
Right, the *locknut* you don't want to finger tighten, it takes a little torque. Still, don't go crazy on it (as you have learned :P)
 
lol a manual CCT isn't that much $ and not hard to install or set. Help a friend years ago install an APE one on his F4i. Installed them on a few other bikes as well.
 
Well well, it was the valve. I put a thicker shim on the loose-ish valve and the tap is 90% gone. What's left is probably coming from another valve that's on the loose side.

Now my valve cover is leaking oil again. Where's my silicone.

This is fun.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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