Following the manufacturer recommended break in technique will NOT save your engine | GTAMotorcycle.com

Following the manufacturer recommended break in technique will NOT save your engine

croco

Well-known member
Admins, this is not really a tech question, so I think it belongs in General Discussion. It's the story all about how I got two new engines within a month. :D

I bought my 2010 Suzuki GSXR600 brand new (0km on the odometer) 6 weeks ago, and did my best to break it in properly. I stayed in the city at low speeds, keeping the revs low, working through the gears, etc and gradually increased the speed and revs over the first 400km. Then I went on the first long ride of the season a couple of week ends ago, where I put another 500km on the bike, bringing the total to 916km. This trip was a pain because I tried riding in all possible gears, taking on/off ramps to vary the speed, etc.

When I came back I noticed the engine started leaking oil from the back side (intake side). Nothing horrible, but enough to make a small mark on my garage floor.

Took it back to the dealership I bought the bike from, and I just found out they're swapping my engine with another brand new one. I spoke with the mechanic, and there's nothing major wrong with my original engine. But the dealership itself is closing down at the end of the month and they wouldn't have time to properly rebuild my engine given how long it takes for parts to arrive from Japan. So they're swapping in a new crated motor (I have seen the crate myself) as a time saver.

I'm lucky in a way because Suzuki had an engine available in Toronto, and it doesn't have to be brought in from Japan. If that were the case, I would have been out for two months instead of two weeks.

But this got me thinking about how I should break my new engine in. I tried the manufacturer recommended method, and it failed miserably. I've also spoken with many racers and mechanics, and they all told me to just ride it normally from the very start instead of trying to protect the engine. If something is going to break, it'll break regardless of riding style. If anything, defects get exposed sooner rather than later.

So now the plan is to ride it nicely for 10km, just to make sure everything is bolted properly and I won't have a piston blow through my gas tank. Then I'll ride it normally, and I'll change the first oil at the 50-100km mark with another regular, non-synthetic oil.
 
Keeping the revs low may have been your problem, were you lugging the engine at all.
 
Keeping the revs low may have been your problem, were you lugging the engine at all.

I tried my very best not to lug it, I know it's a terrible thing to do to an engine especially during the break in period. I may have done it a couple of times, but it's not like I was doing 60km/h in 5th gear. Always made sure it had enough power, and always eased on the throttle when riding at lower rpms.
 
Although you gotta keep the revs varied when it's new your not suppist to hold the revs at one spot for long periods of time. Luke cruising at 5000rpm for 20 mins or so. (Just an example) you gotta keep the tach moving a bit. However their is such a thing as manufacturing defects. It happens. Your both lucky and unlucky to get a whole new motor. New motor BONUS, Breaking it in for a second time CRAPPY.hope you have better luck this time.

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Your title of this thread is misleading.

You're right, "Following the manufacturer recommended break in technique will NOT save your engine"... when you have a defective engine from the manufacturer.

Suzuki is making it right, I don't see what your problem is.
 
Your title of this thread is misleading.

You're right, "Following the manufacturer recommended break in technique will NOT save your engine"... when you have a defective engine from the manufacturer.

Suzuki is making it right, I don't see what your problem is.

Your engine breaking or being broken from the start had absolutely nothing to do with how you rode it. I'm not certain why you are connecting the two in here.
 
Although you gotta keep the revs varied when it's new your not suppist to hold the revs at one spot for long periods of time. Luke cruising at 5000rpm for 20 mins or so. (Just an example) you gotta keep the tach moving a bit. However their is such a thing as manufacturing defects. It happens. Your both lucky and unlucky to get a whole new motor. New motor BONUS, Breaking it in for a second time CRAPPY.hope you have better luck this time.

I always varied the revs. Even when I went up north I took side roads as much as possible, went on/off the highway, varied the speed from 100 to 130km/h while shifting 3rd to 6th.

Believe me, I do consider myself lucky that I'm getting a new engine, and I'll only be sidelined for 2 weeks. They could have just decided to rebuild it and leave me without a bike for two months. Although had that been the case, they would have gotten a bill from my lawyer to cover the monthly bike payments, insurance payments and loss of enjoyment (helps that the gf works in the legal field). :D

Your title of this thread is misleading.

You're right, "Following the manufacturer recommended break in technique will NOT save your engine"... when you have a defective engine from the manufacturer.

Suzuki is making it right, I don't see what your problem is.

The point of the story is that all the debate on how to properly break in an engine is purely academic. If your bike comes with a busted engine, it makes no difference. If your bikes comes with a good engine, unless you lug it or bounce it off the limiter, it also won't make a difference. If anything now I'm leaning more towards the "ride it like you stole it" attitude. That's how I broke in two cars and my old SV650, and they never had a problem with their engines.

As I said it before, I am extremely pleased with Suzuki. Notice how I'm not bashing the GSXR600, Suzuki or the dealership. Smelly stuff happens, but they owned up and I hope things will turn out fine in the end. I just thought my story was worth a post.

Edit: As to the misleading title, you can thank the character cap the site implements.

Your engine breaking or being broken from the start had absolutely nothing to do with how you rode it. I'm not certain why you are connecting the two in here.

No connection really... Figured I'd shoot two topics with one post.
 
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I thought the break in had more to do with seating the rings properly so that you have better compression which results in more power, better fuel economy, and less oil burning. If the engine is leaking oil that has nothing to do with the rings or break in as far as I am aware.
 
An oil leak has absolutely nothing to do with proper (or improper) break in procedure.
 
An oil leak has absolutely nothing to do with proper (or improper) break in procedure.

Exactly what I was going to say.

If a gasket is going to leak oil or if a casting is going to have a crack in it from day one, following the break-in period or not isn't going to make a difference.

Having said that, the factory break-in recommendations are as much about breaking in the rider to the bike, as anything else. Just ride it normally, it won't be a problem.
 
You can bring it to me and I'll break her in for you :p

just kidding....good thing your problem got caught before the dealership went under.
 
My break in procedure for my last 5 bikes has been this. First are a couple of heat cycles without any load just bringing up to temerature. First time out for first 20 to 40 kms or so I do good hard (not redline) accelerations. The rings seat in the first few kms of riding. This gives the rings a good start on life. Babying it right of the bat can actually cause the rings to not seat well and cylinders to glaze. After that as the manufacturer states first 500 or 1000kms vary the rpm's, never lug the engine and avoid long runs at steady speeds.

I have never had one bike become an oil burner nor ever had any engine woes and most I have run well over 80,000kms before selling.

This article explains the procedure very well and why.

http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
 
Break in procedure from a honda shop in which one of my friend worked:
Turn on the engine,
rev it at 3000rpm
wait until the thermostat is full open
shut down the engine, flush the oil, put new oil, ride it like you stole it.
Just before going out of the factory, they "pre-break in" your engine, they put gas in it, rev it to the red line on the 6th gear, flush the oil, put new oil and ask you not to go over 4000rpm for the next 1000km's....it's more an warranty question than anything else. On another forum, a guy got told by a mechanic that his engine broke because he didn't push it during the break in....he got told to ride it like you stole it basically....
 
Time for an update...

I got my new engine installed, and it had a cracked valve cover. When I was riding it, it was spitting so much oil the whole right side of the bike was covered in it. Took it back to the dealer, they swapped the valve cover from my original engine and everything seems to hold together. Sadly, the mechanic managed to scratch my frame and fairings in several places.

The dealership manager returns from his vacation on Monday, and first chance I get I will pay him a visit to complain. I understand that swapping engines and valve covers is very difficult, and it probably wasn't the mechanics' fault the scratches happened. But I bought a brand new bike, which turned out to look old and used after less than 1000km.

What do you guys think would be reasonable to ask for compensation? Free service? Free gear? New bike (I'd cover the cost difference between my bike on the road cost and the new bike cost)? I'm not the kind to take advantage of a situation, but I feel like I'm being taken for a ride here. I lost the bike for 2 weeks while it was in the shop, and as luck would have it those were the weeks with beautiful weather. The other 4 weeks the weather was horrible. So I paid about $500 (insurance+payments) for my bike to sit around and get scratched in the process...
 
I'm not the kind to take advantage of a situation, but I feel like I'm being taken for a ride here. I lost the bike for 2 weeks while it was in the shop, and as luck would have it those were the weeks with beautiful weather. The other 4 weeks the weather was horrible. So I paid about $500 (insurance+payments) for my bike to sit around and get scratched in the process...

It costs you $13,000 a year to ride???
 
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Please...no more "What's the correct way to break in an engine" discussions.

As others have said, an oil leak is most likely a manufacturer defect and has nothing to do with how you did or didn't break in the engine. Be thankful that they are replacing the engine. As far as how to break in the new one, that decision is yours... go with what makes you feel best.
 
LoL - makes me want to get out and buy a Suzuki 600 right away...
 
If the dealer scratched your frame and fairings in the process of changing the engine or valve cover and it's in a location visible from outside, I'd raise a stink about it. Did you make sure to document the scratch before you left the dealer so that they don't try to pin it on you? The fairings are no problem to replace, but the frame is a big problem.

Have a CALM discussion with the service manager about how they propose to make this right, and how they propose to make good for the time out of service.
 
I had two new bikes and I used both methods. I like the ride it like I stole it technique. They bike still pull super hard.
 

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