*DREADED* E-TEST - OBD II - Drive Cycle?? | GTAMotorcycle.com

*DREADED* E-TEST - OBD II - Drive Cycle??

BradPitt

Active member
audi a4 1.8turbo just picked it up. car running rich for sure. check engine was on

1st thing i fixed was broken wires to sensor on blow-off valve . check engine back on - car misfiring

Replaced all plugs today - runs amazing!!

NOW - my question re: this new E-test and drive cycle...

given the recent history on car - should I drive it a lot now to freshen the cycle? or disconnect battery all together and start fresh and then drive a lot to get all the sensor ready?

what's the best plan of attack?

also - very small leak in exhaust - i heard they don't care about that anymore - true or false
 
If the readiness bits are set and the scan is clean, get the test. They are good for a year.
 
Last week my GFs dad passed emissions with 2 incomplete cycles. A day before the test I cleared his codes because his CEL(EVAP) was on. I left my reader with him and told him to go in when his cycles are complete. He went in with with two incomplete cycles, EVAP and I forgot the other one. They passed him. On his way home the EVAP cycle completed and his CEL was back on. Dunno what's going on anymore with this drive clean.
 
Depending on the year of the car, older vehicles up to 2000 i believe are allowed up to two incomplete parameters, newer cars are allowed 1.....its a cluster****...its like nobody knew this thing is coming and dropped it on their lap (government ppl i mean), now they are all scrambling trying to fix and circrumvent issues that should have been foreseen a long time ago.
 
what GreyGhost said If the readiness bits are set and the scan is clean, get the test. They are good for a year

daught said ... Dunno what's going on anymore with this drive clean

I think they are making a crisis of the system,, and will come out with a revamped system to cure the issues...[they created] - annual safety inspections that includes testing of emissions by a certified mechanic who can make a decision based on training ,,
big money maker,, and will employ people ! just my conspiracy guess..
 
Some countries require a safety check every two years, similar to the one we have to do when we buy vehicles. Honestly, it's not a bad idea. Way too many cars have more rust than grease in their ball joints. Heck some barely have air in their tires.
 
Some countries require a safety check every two years, similar to the one we have to do when we buy vehicles. Honestly, it's not a bad idea. Way too many cars have more rust than grease in their ball joints. Heck some barely have air in their tires.

When drive clean was new I had a car come in for a test. It had no floors other than carpet. Left on the hook, owner ******. It should be some form of a safety instead of the current scam of a money grab.

Op as for your a4. Get the codes checked and cleared. If your misfire was coil packs it will be back and that's not an uncommon thing to do with a 1.8. Fill tank with good gas and show up with it already hot.
 
just got my 06 mazda 3 done. 2.3 engine. oil changed regularly. exhaust system just replaced with high quality road legal (not a "performance pipe") pipe. new air filters, o2 sensor, belts etc. should have had no problem passing.

it barely failed. they tried it again and tihs time failed miserably. the guy doing it was confused, so he ran it a third time, and it passed with flying colours. i took my paper and went home.

this testing system is messed.
 
Op as for your a4. Get the codes checked and cleared. If your misfire was coil packs it will be back and that's not an uncommon thing to do with a 1.8. Fill tank with good gas and show up with it already hot.

That advice would apply to old E-test , but i'm curious about the new E-test where they don't even do tailpipe test, just OBDII scan...


hmm so unclear what they test actually tests - does it matter if the check engine light was ON recently (but was reset)?? how many KMs do I have to drive after now?
 
That advice would apply to old E-test , but i'm curious about the new E-test where they don't even do tailpipe test, just OBDII scan...


hmm so unclear what they test actually tests - does it matter if the check engine light was ON recently (but was reset)?? how many KMs do I have to drive after now?

It really depends. I been playing with my reader quite a bit. Some cars can take up to two days, with highway driving, to check all monitors. Depending on the age of your car you might not need all of them to be ready.
 
hmm so unclear what they test actually tests - does it matter if the check engine light was ON recently (but was reset)?? how many KMs do I have to drive after now?

The new test just checks for all readiness bits set and no codes. That's it. You could have no exhaust system behind the cat and it would likely pass. Stupid.

As others have said, there are some exceptions to all bits set (some cars don't like setting them, so there is a procedure for coming back the next day after driving at least 30 km, if no fewer readiness bits are set, you can pass (or something like this)).
 
It really depends. I been playing with my reader quite a bit. Some cars can take up to two days, with highway driving, to check all monitors. Depending on the age of your car you might not need all of them to be ready.

mine is a 2000

umm what reader are you using ? standard OBD II monitor can read "monitors" too?
 
mine is a 2000

umm what reader are you using ? standard OBD II monitor can read "monitors" too?

$30 ebay wifi reader(elm327) with iphone/android app. I'm using REV on iphone. elm327 based rears can do everything the OBD protocol supports.
 
This new testing system is so ****ed it doesn't matter what you do.
 
Depending on the year of the car, older vehicles up to 2000 i believe are allowed up to two incomplete parameters, newer cars are allowed 1.....its a cluster****...its like nobody knew this thing is coming and dropped it on their lap (government ppl i mean), now they are all scrambling trying to fix and circrumvent issues that should have been foreseen a long time ago.

Actually 2 "not ready" monitors are allowed for vehicles made in 1999 and 1998.
Anything younger than that - only one monitor.
 
That advice would apply to old E-test , but i'm curious about the new E-test where they don't even do tailpipe test, just OBDII scan...


hmm so unclear what they test actually tests - does it matter if the check engine light was ON recently (but was reset)?? how many KMs do I have to drive after now?

In good old days we used to get a "sniffer" probe up our tail pipes. With the new Drive Clean program this method still applies for vehicles older than 1998, meaning they don't have an On Board Diagnostics (OBD-II) computer. For newer vehicles - no sniffer anymore. The test is being administered via vehicle's onboard computer.
MYTH: Disconnecting your battery will help your vehicle pass the Drive Clean test.
FACT: Disconnecting your battery will likely lead to an incomplete emissions.

The information in your vehicle’s computer may have been erased if any of the following happened recently:
• the vehicle was serviced and the battery was disconnected
• the battery was replaced
• the battery was drained, by leaving the headlights on, etc.
• the computer codes were cleared or reset to turn off the “check engine” light (if you had repairs done to your vehicle recently)

When either one of these happens your vehicle's monitors (sensors) go to sleep, and they won't wake up immediately after you re-connect battery power. So make sure to take your vehicle for a long drive to bring the sensors back online. However, for some vehicles this may take up to 2-3 days.

To ensure that your monitors have the best chance of becoming READY, especially after being reset, follow the following steps and information:

1. You must start this process with a fuel level of between ¼ and ¾ full. If there is too much or too little fuel, some of the onboard monitors may not run and will remain NOT READY. If your tank is below ¼, add enough fuel so that it becomes no more than ¾ full. If your tank is full, drive it normally until it is less than ¾ full (but more than ¼) and then continue with the steps below.
2. The vehicle must sit for a minimum 8 hour period, without a start.
3. Start the engine and before driving it, let it sit and idle to warm it up to normal operating temperature (this is normally when the car would be fully warm inside from the heater and/or the engine temperature gauge is reading “normal” or where it usually does after a long drive).
4. Drive the vehicle for a minimum of 10 minutes at highway speeds (between 90 km/hr and 110 km/hr).
5. Drive the vehicle for at least 20 minutes in stop and go traffic with at least four idle periods (engine running while at a stop).
6. Do not turn the engine off during the above driving cycle until the very end (no stopping for a coffee in between any step!).
7. It is not necessary to have your vehicle tested immediately after this drive cycle. Your vehicle will remain READY as long as the battery is not disconnected (or goes dead) or the Diagnostic Codes are cleared by a “scanner” of some kind. If you can’t make it in for a number of days, this is fine provided the Check Engine Light does not return.


In order for the vehicle to be deemed test "ready" it is only allowed to have 1 monitor "not ready". Except for vehicles made in 1999 and 1998 - 2 monitors.
Good luck!


 
Great writeup and yet more proof on how stupid the system is. Instead of actually checking whether your car is emitting something bad, you need to follow a 2 day procedure to have the car determine if it has a bad sensor (which even when it's working doesn't directly measure emissions).


In good old days we used to get a "sniffer" probe up our tail pipes. With the new Drive Clean program this method still applies for vehicles older than 1998, meaning they don't have an On Board Diagnostics (OBD-II) computer. For newer vehicles - no sniffer anymore. The test is being administered via vehicle's onboard computer.
MYTH: Disconnecting your battery will help your vehicle pass the Drive Clean test.
FACT: Disconnecting your battery will likely lead to an incomplete emissions.

The information in your vehicle’s computer may have been erased if any of the following happened recently:
• the vehicle was serviced and the battery was disconnected
• the battery was replaced
• the battery was drained, by leaving the headlights on, etc.
• the computer codes were cleared or reset to turn off the “check engine” light (if you had repairs done to your vehicle recently)

When either one of these happens your vehicle's monitors (sensors) go to sleep, and they won't wake up immediately after you re-connect battery power. So make sure to take your vehicle for a long drive to bring the sensors back online. However, for some vehicles this may take up to 2-3 days.

To ensure that your monitors have the best chance of becoming READY, especially after being reset, follow the following steps and information:

1. You must start this process with a fuel level of between ¼ and ¾ full. If there is too much or too little fuel, some of the onboard monitors may not run and will remain NOT READY. If your tank is below ¼, add enough fuel so that it becomes no more than ¾ full. If your tank is full, drive it normally until it is less than ¾ full (but more than ¼) and then continue with the steps below.
2. The vehicle must sit for a minimum 8 hour period, without a start.
3. Start the engine and before driving it, let it sit and idle to warm it up to normal operating temperature (this is normally when the car would be fully warm inside from the heater and/or the engine temperature gauge is reading “normal” or where it usually does after a long drive).
4. Drive the vehicle for a minimum of 10 minutes at highway speeds (between 90 km/hr and 110 km/hr).
5. Drive the vehicle for at least 20 minutes in stop and go traffic with at least four idle periods (engine running while at a stop).
6. Do not turn the engine off during the above driving cycle until the very end (no stopping for a coffee in between any step!).
7. It is not necessary to have your vehicle tested immediately after this drive cycle. Your vehicle will remain READY as long as the battery is not disconnected (or goes dead) or the Diagnostic Codes are cleared by a “scanner” of some kind. If you can’t make it in for a number of days, this is fine provided the Check Engine Light does not return.


In order for the vehicle to be deemed test "ready" it is only allowed to have 1 monitor "not ready". Except for vehicles made in 1999 and 1998 - 2 monitors.
Good luck!


 
Said it before and I will say it again, no help to the OP but in general:

If you need a drive clean in the next 12 months and your car does not have a check engine light on now, take it in NOW. Do not wait until the last minute otherwise you may screw yourself. Take the pass.

The is really important for people with older (10 year+) cars.
 
This is simple:

If you have ever removed your battery your car WILL not pass due to an incomplete or "not ready" code.

Just drive the car hard, let everything get up to temperature and it WILL pass. I have a catless, track racer and it was a PITA but it all worked out in the end.
 
This is simple:

If you have ever removed your battery your car WILL not pass due to an incomplete or "not ready" code.

Just drive the car hard, let everything get up to temperature and it WILL pass. I have a catless, track racer and it was a PITA but it all worked out in the end.

umm dude it takes a couple days for everything to settle back in...

im pretty sure every car at some point in its life needs to have its battery replaced lol
 

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