On the WeeStrom, I've found that I need to pull the front sprocket cover and adjust the release rod every year or so, or the clutch starts to slip.
Is this common?
Is this common?
Basically this:Adjust how?
Yes that's the thing. I had to replace the clutch in 2011. When it was opened one of the two adjustment nuts in the red circle was extremely loose.with this thing?
once a year sounds abnormal
Yes, you're right. Once you set the release rod, you have to go back and adjust the freeplay.I think that adjustment is not for clutch freeplay,but for adjusting the friction point.Could be wrong tho.
I didn't see anything like that, I'll have another look next time.If it's anything like the old Suzuki's there is a multi-start fast thread made of nylon in there, take that out, clean it all up and stuff it full of silglide when you put it back together :/ or if it's really bad replace the nylon part.
... it was beautiful riding today
O.k. Good to know, I must have missed that thread when I was a Stromtrooper.This used to be done about every 50k on my bike, but lately I adjust mine about every other oil change. It's takes so little time to do.
Make sure you put a dab of grease on that rod. Also, if you decide to clean out the actuator, do so in a small tupperware container otherwise the ball bearings may fall out.
I like this thread as a reference point for the clutch adjustment on 1st gen DL650's.
I find it keeps the chatter down and the bike rides very smooth.
That's just the way Suzuki has done it (possibly several others) but there are other ways to turn the pull on a cable into a push against the clutch springs.I learned something about bikes today, I had no idea such a device existed. TBH I'm not 100% sure this isn't a weird prank
yup, a lever has been known to workThat's just the way Suzuki has done it (possibly several others) but there are other ways to turn the pull on a cable into a push against the clutch springs.
If the mechanism develops free-play or damage to the nylon parts then clutch drag is inevitable because it can no longer convert the pull on the cable to a push on the clutch rod. An old worn cable can produce the same symptoms because the outer shield on your cable can allow some compression. Either mechanical issue can cause your clutch to turn to mush.
... if you have a hydraulic operated clutch you have no such device.
... and a simple cam.yup, a lever has been known to work
Yamaha guys don't have those silly adjuster widgets to deal with
Yamaha tried it too on their 60's roadracers - clutches didn't like turning at crankshaft speed, they tended to explode.Others like 1970's Montesa used a rack and pinion gear inside the primary gear oil casing <- they also had a primary type clutch, a clutch can be made smaller and lighter if you mount it on the crankshaft, downside is you can't pull in the clutch and kick start it.
They were wet clutches too - not that it helped much.Very cool!
worked good on my 360VA but that operated at much lower rpm
... & it's a wet clutch.