Clutch adjustment needed?

[mike226]

Hey everyone. I need some info. I think I need to adjust my clutch, and not sure if I can do it easily or I need to take it to a shop. And I will easily say I am not a mechanic by any means, but I am trying to do more stuff on my own instead of paying big bucks at a shop.

I have a Kawi 400r, about 7k km on it. I was just putting it in the garage and noticed that with the bike off, in first gear, i pulled the clutch all the way in, and as it started to roll I felt and heard the engine catch (didn't stop the bike from rolling, but definitely was not "free"). Plus it does change gears fairly rough. Correct me if I am wrong, but I am assuming that is not normal?

And to adjust it, there is minor adjustment I can do from the set screws at the lever, or should I go to the other end of the cable for adjustment?

Thanks in advance.

 

[matthew]

you need to check your manual for the proper amount of freeplay at your lever. usually its a very small amount, like 1-2 cm (i think) if your minor adjustment doesn't bring the freeplay into spec, then you need to adjust where the clutch goes into the engine

 

[mike226]

you need to check your manual for the proper amount of freeplay at your lever. usually its a very small amount, like 1-2 cm (i think) if your minor adjustment doesn't bring the freeplay into spec, then you need to adjust where the clutch goes into the engine

Freeplay is supposed to be 2-3mm, which it is. I did check that already. I have not done any adjustment yet, going to take a better look tomorrow during daylight

 

[invictus43]

I have a Kawi 400r, about 7k km on it. I was just putting it in the garage and noticed that with the bike off, in first gear, i pulled the clutch all the way in, and as it started to roll I felt and heard the engine catch (didn't stop the bike from rolling, but definitely was not "free"). Plus it does change gears fairly rough. Correct me if I am wrong, but I am assuming that is not normal?

When you pull the clutch in, and the bike is in gear, there is a bit of "stickiness" when initially trying to move the bike. This is as a result of the hydraulic tension between the clutch plates in the transmission. The gap between them is not filled with air, it's filled with oil..which is sticky when cool. So you're "breaking" the clutch plates apart when you start to roll it initially. Once you've freed the plates you can move it more easily and without the initial stick. Does that sound like what happened? If so, that's normal and no worries.

 

[mike226]

When you pull the clutch in, and the bike is in gear, there is a bit of "stickiness" when initially trying to move the bike. This is as a result of the hydraulic tension between the clutch plates in the transmission. The gap between them is not filled with air, it's filled with oil..which is sticky when cool. So you're "breaking" the clutch plates apart when you start to roll it initially. Once you've freed the plates you can move it more easily and without the initial stick. Does that sound like what happened? If so, that's normal and no worries.

Not quite. I rolled the bike back and forth a couple times, and could feel and hear it catch moving it forward and back. And looking at the chain it would also tighten up a bit when it catches. Now that I think about it, if my chain was a little loose would that cause what I am hearing/feeling? Just between the chain tightening and catching the transmission?

 

[djltoronto]

with the bike off, in first gear, i pulled the clutch all the way in, and as it started to roll I felt and heard the engine catch (didn't stop the bike from rolling, but definitely was not "free"). Plus it does change gears fairly rough. Correct me if I am wrong, but I am assuming that is not normal?

Sorry, but you are wrong - good news is, that is indeed the correct operation of the motorcycle. Nothing is wrong with what you described - just ride and enjoy.

 

[Gryphon]

Hi Mike,
Glad to hear you're enjoying your nice new 400.
Apparently that's a lot more bike than a Ninja250...
Okay, clutch 101 teaches:
As your clutch wears, the clutch cable tightens up and freeplay disappears.
You need to keep feeding in more freeplay (from the clutch lever).
Eventually, the cable at the clutch lever will be screwed completely in.
At this point you must go down to the other end of the cable, the clutch end, and free up some more freeplay.

Now, that said, what you are describing is apparently the opposite!
You completely pull the lever to disengage the clutch, but can feel it dragging, ie barely disengaging...?
This is normal. As mentioned, the clutch plates are stuck together with motor oil and tend to drag a bit.
When on your bike, in neutral, warming up to ride, when you select first gear you need to cover the front brake since your bike may jump forward a bit - this too is normal.

So not enough freeplay and your clutch will slip; too much freeplay and it will not disengage completely.
You can see why most manufacturers embraced maintenance-free hydraulic clutches a few years ago...
But today's extreme cost-consciousness has seen a return to the old-school clutch cable, at least on the *ahem* more affordable models.
But always keep your clutch as perfectly adjusted as possible from the clutch lever.
You might actually adjust it literally every time you ride (it's pretty easy).
Regards

 

[redridernl]

You can see why most manufacturers embraced maintenance-free hydraulic clutches a few years ago...
But today's extreme cost-consciousness has seen a return to the old-school clutch cable, at least on the *ahem* more affordable models.(it's pretty easy).
Regards

It has nothing to do with cheaper models...

 

[invictus43]

It has nothing to do with cheaper models...

Cheap is one factor..so is weight and feel. Versus hydraulic which is (relatively) maintenance-free. I personally prefer the cable..

 

[mike226]

Thanks for the replies!