Bought a used FJR, what things to get looked at? | GTAMotorcycle.com

Bought a used FJR, what things to get looked at?

Norcorider

Norcorider

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Hi all,

I recently bought a 2008 Yamaha FJR 1300 with 45k km on the Odo. Awesome machine!

The previous owner had the bike for 5 years and did yearly oil and filter change but that's about it.
What are the things I need to get looked at before I take it for next long ride.

Below is what I could think of:
1) replace all fluids - engine oil, final drive, transmission, coolant, brake.
2 ) air and oil filter change.
3) check brake pads.

Do I need to get valve adjustment done and spark plugs replaced? What else?

Thanks
 
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Some of that is mileage dependent, and you haven't told us what's on it!

Engine oil = transmission oil on that bike. No idea about shaft-drive oil. Coolant and brake fluid changes are frequently neglected. If you opt to do the brake fluid, the easy way is to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir with a syringe, then take the calipers off (take the opportunity to thoroughly clean the caliper pistons before the next step, please) and push the pistons all the way back (this pushes old fluid up to the reservoir) and suck the reservoir dry again, then refill with new fluid. No this won't flush ALL of the fluid but it will get most of it, and it's a lot less messy this way - and you don't have to fool around with the ABS. Might as well do this in conjunction with changing brake pads while you have the calipers off the forks.

Yamaha's default valve clearance inspection interval is 45,000 km. No idea why it's an odd interval like that. You can safely round that to every 50,000 km. But they use the same inspection interval on every bike - and the FJR engine is less stressed than a lot of others in the lineup. It's fairly likely that it never really needs to be touched ... although if you are in there for spark plugs, you might as well pull the valve cover to have a look around. The standard spark plugs are iridium. Iridium Spark Plugs - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums

If it is a high-mileage bike, check the steering head bearings.
 
Brian P said:
Some of that is mileage dependent, and you haven't told us what's on it!

Engine oil = transmission oil on that bike. No idea about shaft-drive oil. Coolant and brake fluid changes are frequently neglected. If you opt to do the brake fluid, the easy way is to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir with a syringe, then take the calipers off (take the opportunity to thoroughly clean the caliper pistons before the next step, please) and push the pistons all the way back (this pushes old fluid up to the reservoir) and suck the reservoir dry again, then refill with new fluid. No this won't flush ALL of the fluid but it will get most of it, and it's a lot less messy this way - and you don't have to fool around with the ABS. Might as well do this in conjunction with changing brake pads while you have the calipers off the forks.

Yamaha's default valve clearance inspection interval is 45,000 km. No idea why it's an odd interval like that. You can safely round that to every 50,000 km. But they use the same inspection interval on every bike - and the FJR engine is less stressed than a lot of others in the lineup. It's fairly likely that it never really needs to be touched ... although if you are in there for spark plugs, you might as well pull the valve cover to have a look around. The standard spark plugs are iridium. Iridium Spark Plugs - Yamaha FJR Forum : Yamaha FJR Owners Forums

If it is a high-mileage bike, check the steering head bearings.
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Thanks. Updated my previous post with mileage, under 45000 km.
 
Aye, so it's right at the recommended valve clearance check point. Personally if that were my bike, if it starts easily and runs well, I'd leave the valve clearance check (and spark plug replacement) until next winter unless you're planning to do 20,000 km this summer. If the brake fluid is dark, do that, and if the brake pads have less than half left, might as well do those.
 
Has it just been certified?
If yes then your brake pads and running gear must have just been inspected, if no then you need to check and service virtually everything.

Compression test is still the best way to see how well your rings and valves are sealing and adjusted, short of taking the bike apart significantly to visually inspect those things.


I bet the oil in the front forks is still the original sludge, nobody ever thinks to service the forks.
 
That's a good point ... fork oil is another forgotten fluid. As for a compression test, getting to the top of the engine is a very significant exercise on that bike. If the engine starts easily and runs smoothly and doesn't use oil, don't bother.

Save up everything that involves getting access to the top of the engine (spark plugs, valve clearances) and then do it all at once.

Those bikes will go 200,000 plus km with just oil and filter changes and maaaaybe a spark plug change or two, as far as the engine is concerned.
 
Trials said:
Has it just been certified?
If yes then your brake pads and running gear must have just been inspected, if no then you need to check and service virtually everything.

Compression test is still the best way to see how well your rings and valves are sealing and adjusted, short of taking the bike apart significantly to visually inspect those things.


I bet the oil in the front forks is still the original sludge, nobody ever thinks to service the forks.
Click to expand...

Good point on forks , noted. It's been sitting at team Honda Milton for 2 days to get safety certificate.

Off topic-
Not having enough shops around who can perform safety certification on bikes is pissing me off.
 
You need to make friends with a licensed bike mechanic, lots of them ride.
 
Check the tires, my bikes tires had very little wear on them, after bringing it home I realized the front tire was almost 10 years old "certified" :ROFLMAO:
 
Shaft drive oil change is easier and less work than lubing a chain and should be done every year or two.
Buy a quart of gear oil, i think you're looking for 75W-90. Level the bike, Put a pail to catch the oil and open the shaft drain plug - it's on the bottom at the lowest point at the wheel. Can't miss it. Open the fill plug too. When it's drained, put the drain plug back. The fill plug is exactly at the level it's supposed to be so pour oil in until it overflows. Put the fill plug back and you're done. Depending on the brand of gear oil, a bic pen might fit the mouth of the bottle so you don't even need a funnel.
 
Just a tiny tip. Never open a drain plug, until you know for sure you can open the fill plug.
 
boyoboy said:
oh, come on now...please dont leave us hanging lol
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Happened on a BMW i owned.Drained the final drive for the first time,and then found the previous owner had cross threaded (and then siliconed) the fill plug.
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