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Battery check device

And can also be discharged deeply without damage, unlike lead acid.

Actually, no. Deeply discharging a lithium pack will kill it. That's pretty much how I did in my Shorai, which was my first lithium. Antigravity specifically warns not to discharge below 10.5 volts if you want them to honour their warranty.
 
My business is batteries... (Seriously, I sell and service batteries)

Lithium packs are made up of smaller cells in series to build up to the desired voltage; and in parallel to build up the required current - with an intelligent BCM to manage charge/discharge. There are few 'critical path' component in there; mostly in the BCM - that if they fail, the battery is no longer functional. Like any active electronic component, they can (and will) fail, and likely at the worst possible time. There's generally no warning when a small lithium pack fails... there's also no 'extra' cells to compensate for failing ones; nor the switching and intelligence to disable them...

Lead acid, be it AGM, gel or flooded - are simpler; but again, multiple cells built up to the desired voltage - 99.9% of the time in 2v blocks (3 cells for 6v, 6 cells for 12v, etc) - but the cells themself are sized for the current, so they are a much simpler internally. Failure modes for lead acid are pretty straight forward; they short out, dry out, or suffer physical damage... Sulfination and plate growth also reduce capacity, but that's more a factor of age then anything else. A load tester or conductance tester can see if they're drying out or starting to short (internal resistance goes down, so self discharge goes up, and capacity goes down); or if sulfination is reducing capacity. Plate growth usually shows either as internal shorting, or physical deformity of the case, depending on the construction of the battery itself. Lead acid will usually show signs it's failing (lower voltage under load - so slow cranking; diming lights, electrical 'gremlins') rather then just kick catastrophically.

Lithium's not the end-all be-all that some vendors have been selling it as - it's good technology, and has a place - but the shine is coming off a little... it doesn't last as long as advertised, and it's essentially not recyclable (25ish percent of a lithium battery (more or less - depending on specific chemistry) can be recycled, the rest is hazardous waste; 94-97% of a lead acid battery is recycled)... but Lithium is also lighter and more energy dense - for for weight and size concerns, it's a winner; it's also less affected by high temperatures, so high-heat applications make sense as well.

Back to the question - there's not a lot of testing available for small lithium... Conductance doesn't work; load testing is more likely to wreck the battery rather then give you useful information... larger lithium, over 100aH or so, often have CANBus ports so you can actively monitor state of health, etc - but for small packs, your best bet is to hope it doesn't strand you somewhere too awkward.

Do you sell lithium motorcycle batteries and what do you recommend to replace a Yuasa YT12B-BS for starting in 0 Celsius weather? My experience has been lithiums lose their cranking power when cold, but warm up as you crank. The problem is until you get them warmed up, they have low voltage and the electronics take a fit, never mind your sprag from the failed start attempts.
 
Ok, back on the rails.
What is your take on this device?

Looks OK for $35, but now you're introducing a parasitic draw (or adding to whatever your bike is drawing). A smart charger would do the charging test, and a volt meter would give you over/under charge readings, but if you want all that on your phone then yeah.
 
Do you sell lithium motorcycle batteries and what do you recommend to replace a Yuasa YT12B-BS for starting in 0 Celsius weather? My experience has been lithiums lose their cranking power when cold, but warm up as you crank. The problem is until you get them warmed up, they have low voltage and the electronics take a fit, never mind your sprag from the failed start attempts.

I don't sell motorsports/automotive... I do mostly stationary reserve (think back up for cell towers, radio broadcast, internet and phone companies, that sort of thing).

Lithium starts to lose capacity below about 20 degrees; and really falls off around 5 degrees... Some older polymer/lithium packs had internal heaters to keep temps up; but if you Google "Avestor VRAD explosions" you'll see how poorly that plan worked out...

Unfortunately, I don't have a recommendation for a low-temp battery solution... sorry!
 
I don't sell motorsports/automotive... I do mostly stationary reserve (think back up for cell towers, radio broadcast, internet and phone companies, that sort of thing).

Lithium starts to lose capacity below about 20 degrees; and really falls off around 5 degrees... Some older polymer/lithium packs had internal heaters to keep temps up; but if you Google "Avestor VRAD explosions" you'll see how poorly that plan worked out...

Unfortunately, I don't have a recommendation for a low-temp battery solution... sorry!

I've heard of snowmobilers using Earth-X lithiums, but I think they were just oversizing them rather than Earth-X having any technological advancements. My current strategy (no pun intended) is to jump start the bike below 15 C to save my sprag and keep my stops short enough that the battery doesn't cool to ambient.
 
How do all you guys with OEM lithiums fare in the cold?
 
How do all you guys with OEM lithiums fare in the cold?

We have Skyrich lithiums-ions on our enduros, they're the OEM for KTM and Husqvarna. I've ridden in 0°C no problem. Cranks strong the very first time of the day. Granted it's only a 500cc single, but absolutely no problems at all.

They say that you need to "warm" the battery up by turning on the lights first. Our headlamps don't come on until the engine is running, but the priming of the fuel pump seems to be generating enough draw.

Over the winter, I put it on a Lithium battery tender every couple of months, and the charging light goes green within an hour, indicating minimal loss of charge.

Personally, I don't see any drawbacks at all going from AGM to Lithium.
 
We have Skyrich lithiums-ions on our enduros, they're the OEM for KTM and Husqvarna. I've ridden in 0°C no problem. Cranks strong the very first time of the day. Granted it's only a 500cc single, but absolutely no problems at all.

They say that you need to "warm" the battery up by turning on the lights first. Our headlamps don't come on until the engine is running, but the priming of the fuel pump seems to be generating enough draw.

Over the winter, I put it on a Lithium battery tender every couple of months, and the charging light goes green within an hour, indicating minimal loss of charge.

Personally, I don't see any drawbacks at all going from AGM to Lithium.

Do you have the model number of that battery so I can check the specs?
 
I wouldn’t store lithium above 80% charge, my experience is that it reduces capacity, and ages the cells( adds internal resistance). With the smaller R/C cells leaving them fully changed has actually killed the pack, 50–70% charge seems to be the sweet spot. A healthy pack can sit like that for a year with very little voltage loss


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Actually, no. Deeply discharging a lithium pack will kill it.

Of course, the magic voltage is 2.4-3.0v.

But you can draw almost all of the rated AH's out of a lithium battery and not reach that cell voltage, that was my point - so if you buy a 100ah lithium, you'll get almost 100ah out of it before the BMS enables the low voltage cutoff and it's "dead". But no cells went below critical and the battery isn't damaged at all. This is the same on every EV out there - when the battery is "Dead" according to the BMS, it's of course not actually 100% depleted.
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On a lead acid battery however, that same 100ah battery really only provides ~50ah usable before you dip into a depth of discharge that is actually damaging the battery.
 
Of course, the magic voltage is 2.4-3.0v.

But you can draw almost all of the rated AH's out of a lithium battery and not reach that cell voltage, that was my point - so if you buy a 100ah lithium, you'll get almost 100ah out of it before the BMS enables the low voltage cutoff and it's "dead". But no cells went below critical and the battery isn't damaged at all. This is the same on every EV out there - when the battery is "Dead" according to the BMS, it's of course not actually 100% depleted.
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On a lead acid battery however, that same 100ah battery really only provides ~50ah usable before you dip into a depth of discharge that is actually damaging the battery.

Oh, well of course a BMS will prevent over discharge and damage. I was thinking batteries without BMS, like all the ones I have. Guess I should get with the times.
 

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