Amsoil Preferred Customer-Question | GTAMotorcycle.com

Amsoil Preferred Customer-Question

wolfpack27616

Well-known member
Hi All,

I was trying to shop for motorcycle oil for my Vulcan 900 and it's a toss up between Amsoil 10w40 or Motul 7100 10w40.

When I googled for Amsoil pricing- it looks like for preferred customers there's a 25% discount on every order- so about a $12 discount.

However- to get the preferred customer membership, it's $15 for 6 months or $30 per year.

So how does it make financial sense unless ordering for a bunch of buddies?


On a related note- is there anybody in Mississauga/Brampton/Milton area willing who is already a preferred customer willing to buy the oil for me? (I figured that there's nothing to lose by asking).
 
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I signed up for a year free, it was waved through a reseller. I ordered a lot of stuff though.

What's the local CanTire or PartsSource price?

Check Kijiji, sometimes you can find a seller on there, I did.
 
I signed up for a year free, it was waved through a reseller. I ordered a lot of stuff though.

What's the local CanTire or PartsSource price?

Check Kijiji, sometimes you can find a seller on there, I did.

Hi- I was checking CT website, but they didn't have any Rotella T6 in the grade that I wanted (10w40). Other grades are priced around $50.

I am keeping an eye out in kijiji to see if I can nab a jug for cheap (Amsol or Motul 7100 or T6)
 
WalMart used to carry T6, try CanTire and PartsSource for Amsoil. Or just go Mobil, you're not running an air-cooled or race engine.
 
Hi- I was checking CT website, but they didn't have any Rotella T6 in the grade that I wanted (10w40). Other grades are priced around $50.
Rotella T6 is only available in 5W-40 and 0W-40. Most that use it choose 5W-40. You have to buy it when its on sale. Usually around $42 for 5L jug and $130 for the 18.9L pail. Plus, Shell offers 7$ & $35 rebates respectively. Its usually on sale 4-5 times per year.
 
WalMart used to carry T6, try CanTire and PartsSource for Amsoil. Or just go Mobil, you're not running an air-cooled or race engine.

My local CT and Part Source don't carry T6 in the grade that I want. I will check out other CTs. Did you mean to suggest Mobil motorcycle specific oil, or a generic Mobil 10w40?
 
Rotella T6 is only available in 5W-40 and 0W-40. Most that use it choose 5W-40. You have to buy it when its on sale. Usually around $42 for 5L jug and $130 for the 18.9L pail. Plus, Shell offers 7$ & $35 rebates respectively. Its usually on sale 4-5 times per year.

They don't stock 10w40? That's a bummer...Would have been a nice inexpensive option. Too bad for me :(
 
Check your owner manual and I think you will find you only require the 10w for below freezing temps and then they shift up to 20w, you could probably run with Rotella T conventional oil in 15w40 which is available almost everywhere. Price will be good and the oil is military grade ?
 
Check your owner manual and I think you will find you only require the 10w for below freezing temps and then they shift up to 20w, you could probably run with Rotella T conventional oil in 15w40 which is available almost everywhere. Price will be good and the oil is military grade ?

Manual says 10w40, alternatives depending on temperature would be 10w50, 10w30 (and 20w40 and 20w50). Going to check if i can find Rotella in any of those grades. Thanks!
 
Rotella T5 -- I run that in everything I own since 1980 and have never had an internal part fail on a car or motorcycle. I have motorcycles from the 60s, 70s, 80s in my garage that have never experienced an oil related failure.

Motorcycle engines used on the street will contaminate oil long before it's lubricating qualities break down. Change oil on time and the manufacturer's recommended oil should keep your internals together -- it's not worth the extra $30/oil change unless you like the red color in your sight glass.
 
For all of you that use Rotella, do you find your bike runs cooler? I found that my bike ran warmer with Rotella T6 on my commutes in comparison to Motul 7100 which I found strange as it is a heavier weight.
 
never noticed a difference with cooling

but I let the dealer do an oil change while they were doing tires
they used Yamalube dino and the clutch friction zone was markedly different than T6
was quite a bit "grabbier"


my local CTC has not had anything but the 20L pails of T6 for months now
TSC also sells it, similar pricing, and always have stock - not many motodudes go there
 
re: "For all of you that use Rotella, do you find your bike runs cooler?"

Historically Rotella T was always the finest motor oil Shell made, It had way more certs including military spec use (pretty sure the T stands for tungsten additives) and the purpose of the additive is to draw heat away from the hot spots inside your engine and into the oil. It doesn't do this because it is thicker viscosity its performance is a function of the oils chemical formulation. Rotella T is ideally suited to mixed Diesel and Gasoline powered truck fleets and as diesel engines run hotter then gas engines it has to withstand temps that your gas engine should never see. I say historically because synthetic oils haven't been around near as long as conventional Rotella T.

I used to service the refractometers for Shell at their Oakville refinery and Rotella T was the oil they had me adjust and calibrate their refractometers to, the rest of their oil product line seemed to be of less concern, customer gave me the test sample without initially identifying it and surprised I knew about the product. They were elated with the service results and paid the bill real fast so I was happy too.

Many years ago I was able to buy shell products wholesale :/ wish I had stocked up on a few dozen cases of T because it was super cheap by todays standards and motor oil doesn't go bad in the can if stored properly. If you have a really old engine that is full of sludge and you put T in it, you will want to do the first oil change fairly soon after because it will flush a lot more sludge out then your average motor oil. Diesel engines run very dirty and sulphurous so diesel engine oil is designed to absorb and suspend the pollutants effectively.

My personal view on synthetic vs conventional oil is that synthetic is very expensive and the way they promote synthetic is to suggest it lasts longer. Lasts longer is great if you drive a transport truck millions of miles, but for most of us we change our oil way too frequently and don't do the miles to justify the additional cost, ymmv literally. I'm totally sold on synthetic 2-stroke oil because you can pre-mix so much less of it without hurting your motor and that is a really good thing because it smokes less, gums up your exhaust less and adding less oil to your gasoline results in higher octane which makes it perform better.
 
Manual says 10w40, alternatives depending on temperature would be 10w50, 10w30 (and 20w40 and 20w50). Going to check if i can find Rotella in any of those grades. Thanks!
The first number in a multi grade oil is to accommodate low temperature operation at cold startup, the second number relates to the high temperature during normal high temperature operation. If the motor isn't winter cold (sub zero) on start-up you don't need that 5 or 10w as they indicate that 20w is appropriate for summer temps. That's why they draw the charts the way they do in the owner manual.
 
interesting write-up Trials

diesel engines have higher cylinder temps than petrol
for a few reasons
mainly became more energy is used to make torque

petrol engines have higher external temps - exhaust and coolant
as they don't do as good a job turning BTU's into crankshaft energy

and agree with the longevity comment
synth can be extended theoretically to 10,000 km or more in a car/bike
but although I've always used T6 synth, I dump after 6,000 km
 

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