2009 KTM 690 SMC - Cutting Out When Warmed up On Throttle | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

2009 KTM 690 SMC - Cutting Out When Warmed up On Throttle

JavaFan said:
reminds me of my second RD350
obviously a very different bike and decades apart
but I did a bunch of mods all at once that I'd heard were good

never did get the tuning sorted and it ruined the bike
ran out of oil one day and that provided an opportunity to go back to square one
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This is not my first rodeo either, but this symptom was unknown to me so I wanted to ask for help.

Trials said:
Have you seen this? ... particularly the part about whacking open the throttle.
Tjuvstopp etc. - 690 Wiki
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I have seen and followed all those procedures as the idle issue is a long term issue that I have not completely resolved. Working on that issue introduced this most recent issue. Most of the time I have to keep revving it at lights to mine and others delight. =)
 
So I did get out to the bike today and did the following:

* Loaded a new map
* Went out to ride and the issue was still there
* Pulled the plug and it looked like this :: First 7 pictures ::
https://imgur.com/a/Ticcp0y
* Cleaned and torched the plug (don't have a spare)
* Went out for a 20 minute ride and the issue did not come back
* Pulled the plug and now it looked the same as when I cleaned it

The map from yesterday had a few changes to help with the engine flaming out at idle. Which it did. I will try to introduce those changes more gradually when the weather permits. Mostly had to do with increasing fueling across the board. I'm guessing since I started with a fresh plug yesterday for the first 20 minutes or so the plug was not fouled, after which it was and it did not work when whacking the throttle open since I was introducing a lot of fuel while the ECU was only allowing the flap to open gradually.
 
Curious where you are getting all these various mappings, how are you loading them, and how are you determining what changes need to be made? This stuff is way beyond turning a couple of screws on a carburetor and then turning them back to normal when it doesn't work so well.
 
doesn't look like those plugs have been in the engine long enough
to get much meaningful info from them
 
Trials said:
Curious where you are getting all these various mappings, how are you loading them, and how are you determining what changes need to be made? This stuff is way beyond turning a couple of screws on a carburetor and then turning them back to normal when it doesn't work so well.
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There is quite a bit of literature on the topic for this bike. If you are interested.

Software and Maps: KTM_OEM & Custom Tune_list
EFI Guide: KTM 690 EFI 2008 - 2013 : Idiots Guide
Specific Mapping I followed: Code Orange: Building up Three and a Half 690R's
 
Hey stnd
I own a 690 too. 2008.
My bike has a similar issue.
After researching the internet about it - realized that many 690's suffer from erratic stalls etc.
Some say its throttle sensor, fuel injector & filter, bad fuel pump,
Too lean mapping etc., etc.
Mostly pain in the ass to troubleshoot - I still haven't figured out gremlins on my 690...
BUT what an experience to ride when everything works properly...wow!!!
Btw I have a set of supermoto wheels for sale for the 690 which turns the bike into motard monster
message me for details if interested...or chat about EFI and stuff...good luck man!


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
 
I would check your fuel preasure, they are also know for crappy pumps, I ended up replacing my pump with an aftermarket one ..
 
HERBXX said:
I would check your fuel preasure, they are also know for crappy pumps, I ended up replacing my pump with an aftermarket one ..
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Did yours fail outright, or you experienced some kind of symptoms leading you to change it?

Trials said:
My only interest was curiosity about the technology and attempting to assist you.
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No problem, definitively appreciate the help. Those maps in the first link seem to be fairly well accepted to work with. Ofcourse without tuning on a dyno it is a bit of trial and error and risk.
 
stnd said:
Ofcourse without tuning on a dyno it is a bit of trial and error and risk.
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Wideband 02 gauges are cheap now. You presumably already have an unused 02 bung in your exhaust. If I were you, I would get one in a heartbeat. They provide much more useful feedback than trying to read plugs (and it's instant so you can see what happens the second you whack the throttle open).

Most of the gauges are not designed for bikes and won't appreciate getting wet, so I would tune the bike and then pull the gauge and sensor and plug the bung for normal use.
 
stnd said:
Did yours fail outright, or you experienced some kind of symptoms leading you to change it?

My bike just started quiting when hot and it wouldn't start and I could tell the pump wasn't cycling . After it was cool a bit it run for a little than stop . After it was completely cool it acted normal . I changed the pump and road it about 3k after that without issue , and then sold it ..

I

No problem, definitively appreciate the help. Those maps in the first link seem to be fairly well accepted to work with. Ofcourse without tuning on a dyno it is a bit of trial and error and risk.
Click to expand...
 
GreyGhost said:
Wideband 02 gauges are cheap now. You presumably already have an unused 02 bung in your exhaust. If I were you, I would get one in a heartbeat. They provide much more useful feedback than trying to read plugs (and it's instant so you can see what happens the second you whack the throttle open).

Most of the gauges are not designed for bikes and won't appreciate getting wet, so I would tune the bike and then pull the gauge and sensor and plug the bung for normal use.
Click to expand...

Have you used any you could recommend. Looked around a bit and saw various price ranges.
 
stnd said:
Have you used any you could recommend. Looked around a bit and saw various price ranges.
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Check out Brian P's race bike build thread for useful info. I have an Innovate XD-16 because that was the best at the time, but that time was ~10 years ago. I haven't looked at them much since then.
EDIT:
Good (but very old) article on wideband.
Wideband O2 Sensor Shootout! | FordMuscle Magazine
 
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Sorry I did not see this message earlier, I have not fixed any issues. I have some more time to work on it now, and if nothing else will be taking it into a shop.

My bike refuses to idle at this point, and still sometimes bogs out if I whack on the throttle. Doesn't matter if i run a rich map or lean map. I would like to have the battery load tested, fuel system pressure tested, and a few more things before I start throwing parts at it.
 
Did you have the tank off just before this started happening? Maybe a pinched or kinked fuel line?
 
Have you seen the procedure for testing the FI fuel pump pressure?
What I want to know is :/ if they are measuring it with a pressure gauge why do they want you to pump the fuel into a spare empty container and not just send it right back into the fuel tank :unsure:
 
Trials said:
Have you seen the procedure for testing the FI fuel pump pressure?
What I want to know is :/ if they are measuring it with a pressure gauge why do they want you to pump the fuel into a spare empty container and not just send it right back into the fuel tank :unsure:
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My guess is to check pressure and volume at the same time. Having one without the other is quite useless.
 
Just a guess, but to test that the breather is working, which is bypassed with the cap open? Or is there a return line?
 
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