2006 gsxr600 electrical problem!!! | GTAMotorcycle.com

2006 gsxr600 electrical problem!!!

GixxeR_IaN

Well-known member
Okay so im having the famous charging problem!

I have replaced battery, stator, and r/r. I even removed my hids! Okay so ive gone through everything and followed the service manual and everything passes the check!

I have 4 spare batterys and the bike is doing the same with all of em and i have a spare r/r and still the same!

I ride for about 30 min then bam she dies!

Ive been looking for leaks and bad grounds but nothing. Im lost someone can shine in maybe im missing something!

Thank you!

Ian
 

GixxeR_IaN

Well-known member
New, i put a new stator and r/r and battery and i even tried a pretty much new stator off a 2010gsxr just to see and both of them are putting out over 75 avc at 5000rpm on all 3 prongs
 

GreyGhost

Well-known member
Site Supporter
Is the battery dead when it dies, or does it just shut off? Is it possible that this is a coil/computer problem due to heat?
 

GixxeR_IaN

Well-known member
It sometimes just wont start and i have to bump start it, and today my guage froze and it shut off and i tested battery and it only had 10.93 vdc
 

GreyGhost

Well-known member
Site Supporter
What is the battery voltage when the bike is running? Stator voltage is 75, R/R should be working because it's new (and swapped with others), maybe the power isn't making it from the stator back to the battery (eg break in the wire between stator and R/R or R/R and battery).
 

GixxeR_IaN

Well-known member
11.92 and slowly drops longer its running and when i rev and hold at 5000rpm it doesnt increase at all. And thats what im thinking, i just cant follow and find the wires that go from r/r to battery
 

Brian P

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Moderator
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OK, so you are getting AC in to the regulator and you are not getting DC output from the regulator at the battery. It means either the regulator is not working (I don't care if it's new ... it's not working) or the wiring involving the regulator and battery has a problem.

A lot of regulators need to be grounded to the chassis (via the bolts that secure it to the chassis). If the regulator is not installed properly, it may not be properly grounded. I do not know if this applies to yours.

Lots of them have a ground wire that has to be connected to one of the abovementioned regulator mounting bolts. No ground = no workie. I do not know if this applies to yours - but look for a nearby wire with a ring terminal that is not connected to anything - or a bare wire that might have had a ring terminal that broke off.

Make sure all the terminals inside the plugs that attach to the regulator are properly connected to the underlying wire.
 

GixxeR_IaN

Well-known member
Nope, no external ground wire, and i chased wire all the way from regulator back to starter relay to battery no burns, no rips, looks good. Im lost ive tried all my r/r and same problem, i did a doid test on both and they both passed. So im at a stump.
 

bboySushi

Well-known member
Any other extra electricals hooked up? Disconnect everything and start from there. Could have a wire shorting or something from an accessory.

Check corrosion in the contacts.
I could never get the R/R test to work properly as per the service manual. However you can manually monitor your voltmeter while you leave your bike running, rev it up a bit and hold it and see if you notice any voltage spikes. IF you do then your R/R isn't doing it's job.

I have seen my gauge freeze up, but usually just before the battery dies.

IF you can actually see the voltage dropping while you monitor the voltmeter then something is pretty wrong, you have an unusual drain on your system I would say, and you have spare batteries so it's most likely not a current leak. Again return everything to stock first, remove any extra wiring if you can easily do so.
 

theraymondguy

Well-known member
The -ve from the reg/rec is shared with the tail light, turn signals etc, so if they're working the harness is likely good. The +ve from the reg/rec goes directly to the starter relay where it terminates on the main fuse (30A). It is Plausible that this fuse is blown, allowing the bike to function without charging the battery.
 

Recidivist

Well-known member
Site Supporter
check the little black clip just behind the starter motor. This little gem is the common ground for the lions share of the circuits in the bike. it is stretched to begin with and easily bumped. If you've run the bike long with no/or even reduced ground/dc output, you may have cooked the new R/R(we did). try the old RR with the new stator...worked for us
 

GixxeR_IaN

Well-known member
Ive already replaced the 30amp fuse just to make sure and have removed all accessories, battery only drains while bike is running, and when reving it does not go up at all. Ive had 4 people come look at it and they have all said is stator then they test my charging system and everything passes and they end up as stumped as i am. I think gasoline and a match might fix this haha
 

Brian P

Well-known member
Moderator
Site Supporter
Check for continuity between battery positive and the "hot" terminal on the regulator's plug with battery negative disconnected (for safety) and the key switched on. That will check whether you have proper connection between the regulator output and the battery - including that fuse and its holder.

Then, check for continuity between battery negative cable (not connected to the battery - just the wire that would otherwise be connected) and the "ground" terminal on the regulator's plug. That will also check the connection near the starter motor that Dave mentioned.
 
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GixxeR_IaN

Well-known member
I cant find this clip you speak of?

check the little black clip just behind the starter motor. This little gem is the common ground for the lions share of the circuits in the bike. it is stretched to begin with and easily bumped. If you've run the bike long with no/or even reduced ground/dc output, you may have cooked the new R/R(we did). try the old RR with the new stator...worked for us
 

theraymondguy

Well-known member
I cant find this clip you speak of?
Set your meter to resistance / continuity. Disconnect battery negative - Probe the red wire coming out of the reg/rec, the other lead on the battery positive. Any reading other than 0 ohms indicates resistance in the circuit. There's no need to turn the key on as the output from the reg/rec terminates right on the starter relay.
 

GreyGhost

Well-known member
Site Supporter
I didnt get any numbers on the test. So now what lol, im getting more and more stumped as i go
I am assuming you didn't get a zero. Multimeters deal with open circuits differently, no numbers on yours probably means open circuit.

It sounds like the wire between the R/R and battery is broken (it could happen inside the insulation where you can't see it). Is there any way to run a new wire?
 

GixxeR_IaN

Well-known member
If i put red from multimeter into r/r clip and black from multimeter to unattached negative wire from battery i dont get anything, when i put black from multi meter into r/r clips and red from multi meter to neg cable i get numbers? Im confused not sure whats going on now
 

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