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1/4" torque wrench
- Thread starter matthew
- Start date
Uhmmmm mine works fine from princess auto. Are you sure you are using it in INCH POUND values? I know a dim bulb who tried to use it in ft lbs and wondered why it wasn't working.
I use it for engine specs that are in in pounds, like cam cap bolts etc. And really any bolt that is aluminum has a very small torque value that can be accurately done with a 1/4" in in lbs
I use it for engine specs that are in in pounds, like cam cap bolts etc. And really any bolt that is aluminum has a very small torque value that can be accurately done with a 1/4" in in lbs
That's why you always need enough torque wrenches so it's always being used in its mid range value
They aren't accurate at the very bottom of the range anyway whether it states 10-80 or not, it ain't doing an accurate 10.
boyoboy
Well-known member
I remember snapping a cam cap bolt using a beam style 3/8 torque wrench.
dealer had a replacement bolt in stock ! wtf no wait?! I was surprised and pleased.
Always thought about a 1/4 drive torque wrench after that, but ended up just going by feel for the really small stuff...for 30+ years lol
dealer had a replacement bolt in stock ! wtf no wait?! I was surprised and pleased.
Always thought about a 1/4 drive torque wrench after that, but ended up just going by feel for the really small stuff...for 30+ years lol
Before any important job I always do a cal check on a torque wrench. I try to do it around the torque I expect to need. Obviously that is easier with lower torque values as I need less weight.
For the first 30+ years of my life I barely bothered with a torque wrench and just went by feel. I grew up wrenching and never had any issues. Once I got into street motorcycles I started being careful with the torque specs on important parts. I don’t want anything to fall apart on me at road speeds with the limited protection we have on bikes.
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
There is a design defect in some cheap click torque wrenches. If you back the spring pressure off for storage, as is recommended, and you back it off too far the little piece inside that triggers the click falls out of place and the torque wrench simply becomes an awkward wrench.
I have the cheap ones and always make sure they click before torquing a fastener. I just clamp the square socket receiver in a vice at any low setting and test for the click. I've compared mine to a mechanic buddy's and the values are not that far off.
I have the cheap ones and always make sure they click before torquing a fastener. I just clamp the square socket receiver in a vice at any low setting and test for the click. I've compared mine to a mechanic buddy's and the values are not that far off.
I dont take all spring tension out. I leave 5 to 10% dialed in to make sure those shenanigans dont happen.
I used to service the ones from GM and they were not adjustable, stayed at the same setting forever. After fixing them and setting the torque, the Allen screw was then filled with solder to prevent in-plant tinkering.
I assume they got a calibration test at the plant at some regular interval.
The big ones for truck lug nuts etc. were about four feet long and, back then, I didn't weigh enough to trigger the click pushing down when the wrench was on the calibrator. Fortunately I could lift a little more than my own weight.
I prefer to use weights. Less likely to be wrong. Although it is unlikely that both are off by a similar amount in a similar direction, it is possible. Chunks of steel change very very little with time.
you just put a socket wrench between the two torque wrenches and test one against the other.
Trials
Well-known member
I'm usually in too much of a hurry to get it done and go ride more
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