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1st in ; 1st out is the best way to go about service work...or it becomes difficult to meet already promised deadlines. There isn't anything like a quick fix, the tech still needs to understand what is being asked of him/her and the customer's expectations.

I haven't used Cobalt from PA. But I have used low-end Cobalt from KBC (inexpensive) to drill/wire race bikes, and they worked well. Stainless is tough on cutting tools, I can understand.

Don't buy PA drill bits ; buy from KBC or TRYHARD. Drilling out bolts is a pain, I'd rather weld a nut and extract.

what is lead time from Aliexpress?

The issue with parts like this is quality, the gasket will not be chemically resistant and will get eaten away. They sometimes will use non-standard dimensions for the bowl gasket etcs, so using genuine parts will not be possible. Who knows how good the diaphragms, needles, needle seats etc are...

try peninsula. they usually re-set stuff on the duc's i worked on

The initial break-in period can generate lots of debris, the 1000kms is suggested in order to remove this.

+1 Also try tapping on the carb with a soft mallet (gentle blows) Parts for those carbs will be harder to find. Hopefully they haven't been taken apart much, older carb's are generally a nightmare to work on (as they are usually messed with a lot)

All you really need to rebuild those SV forks is a hammer, allen wrench, hex wrench, screw driver , 2x picks, grease, and fork oil. (brake clean & rags, polishing sand paper)

bring your forks, 6-pack and stop by. we can knocks those forks out in 1hr.

make sure to check the feeler gauges with a mic. some mine were a few micron off

Im waiting for the lemon limoncello

Didn't think to post about pulling plugs, (basic thing to do). Good time to read the plugs. Best to pull the plugs to get the motor to TDC... if cams have to be pulled. Makes life much easier with plugs pulled.

Also....the first few times, It took longer than book time, which the tech would've absorbed.

Sorry don't have sound at work.....the 518 doesn't work there, as one of the faces is painted, other looks machined.

The Loctite 518 is great stuff....wonderful for new/machined faces (surfaces must be rigid). It's a anaerobic sealer. If you have worn surfaces, nothing beats a actual gasket...or traditional RTV. Loctite 598 cannot be beat, but I generally toss away 1/2 the tube. I am using Permatex 59203...

Don't forget some blue thread locker and assembly lube and brake parts cleaner and RTV.....paint marker Valve check is easy...adjustment is much more complicated and sensitive process compared to chain/sprocket change. The clearance dimension, you will have to feet. But you have a good...

I am in Halton Hills....I have a drill press I can lend out. I have better luck welding a bolt/nut to extract

you need a 2nd battery

What are you looking for ? seal?