The driver was the only one accused of a crime, so why would you automatically assume the rest of the passengers were knowingly involved? How ouwld you like to be accused of something you were innocent of? Sure you can win in trial, but that take time and money.
Guilty until proven innocent. Cops should all be Judge Dredd - judge, jury, and executioner. We should just get rid of civil rights like the Nazis did.
That's how ridiculous you sound.
Bumping this up for any other GTAM Hawkers who want to attend for this upcoming long weekend.
@relict - you still have your yellow Hawk/Bros in your profile pic - you should come!
Might be of interest to someone looking for a small 3'x8' trailer that could be set up for towing a single bike:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1453300549129325
Seems like you're making this harder than it needs to be. You have these in the back row of your rotary tool bit set. Use them to grind out the extractor without making the socket head any worse:
Then use something like this to turn it out:
Complain to the shop, outlining exactly what you posted here, unless he's the owner. Ask him to show you all the problems and take pics for yourself. If he does't want to resolve this, then name the shop in here so the rest of us know who to avoid. Then forward all of this to MTO as a complaint...
Yes, but a lot easier to notice a plate back then with an expired or no sticker vs now that there are no stickers at all - cops need to use ALPR or manually run them instead of eyeballing.
Holy, so now that there's no permanent stickers, you can ride dirty, but with a legit plate??? Damn.
EDIT: By dirty, I mean riding an "unfit" bike, even though you have a legit plate, license, and insurance... Wonder what the charge is.
Which shop? Sounds like the guy is unreasonable, but he's going by the book on the turn signals. I believe they need to be a minimum distance from the center of the bike to pass. I don't know if they need to be OEM, but they may not notice if you buy an OEM-ish looking set. As for the costs:
-...
It's much easier to heat the steel bolt than the heat sink that's the aluminum fork bottom. Using any kind of torch whether it's aimed at the bolt or the fork bottom will surely discolour the bottom, not something OP probably wants. That might be avoidable if the inductive heater works. If it...
The typical loops that go around a fastener don't need to touch to heat them up. I don't know if it's the saee for the pad style that mimics the way an induction cooktop works. Maybe someone can try lifting their pan a few mm's off the cooktop with a sheet of silicone and see if it still heats...
Another thing I'd do before trying to unscrew that bolt counterclockwise from above using whatever method is to check the end of the exposed bolt for corrosion and brush it all off. That could be what's holding it in there in addition to the tension.
I'm still lost as to where exacatly this stands. Is the extractor still stuck in the bolt head? Or is it out and the socket head is completely rounded?
If he cuts that bolt through the slot, won't that leave at best damaged threads or worst a burr that won't easily go through the threaded bottom hole if he wants to "push" it through? And possibly also block it from being pulled up the non-threaded hole?
Seems like you're hitting dead end after dead end. Have you gotten a quote from anyone to bring the bike in and have them handle it for you before you back yourself so far into a corner that nobody will be able to get you out of? Even if it's only remove the broken extractor so you can use a...
Or (theoretically) you could use a free-form loop and wrap it around the fork bottom. You want one long enough to wrap around it a few times at least. These ones, as an example, are 36" long:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/372953504388
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