Broke bolt extractor - what to do?

He was going to cut the shank in the compression slot. I don't know if that will leave any of the larger shank or if he will just be left with a threaded rod. I suspect he will just have threads as you wouldn't want the shank bottoming on the fork leg (although you could counterbore the fork leg, I suspect they threaded it all for more meat).

If he cuts that bolt through the slot, won't that leave at best damaged threads or worst a burr that won't easily go through the threaded bottom hole if he wants to "push" it through? And possibly also block it from being pulled up the non-threaded hole?
 
If he cuts that bolt through the slot, won't that leave at best damaged threads or worst a burr that won't easily go through the threaded bottom hole if he wants to "push" it through? And possibly also block it from being pulled up the non-threaded hole?
Assuming he's careful, there shouldn't be much thread damage. Ideally he'd chase with a steel nut after cutting but that's obviously not possible. Without the extractor in there, I'd put drilling the head off way in front of the saw. With the broken extractor in there, it may take a but of work (and drill bits) to pop the head from the top.
 
I'm thinking a profesional quality one a machine shop would use, as opposed to something from Princess Auto or Amazon. Won't be cheap.
The pro shops I know weld on a nut or use a carbide cutter in a mill.

Now, if a size came up often, making a case hardened extractor from tool steel might be the ticket. Not worth it for a one off though as it would take longer to make the tool than complete the job using other methods.
 
The pro shops I know weld on a nut or use a carbide cutter in a mill.

Now, if a size came up often, making a case hardened extractor from tool steel might be the ticket. Not worth it for a one off though as it would take longer to make the tool than complete the job using other methods.

I guess I just assumed someone must make them for popular standard sizes. There's definitely a market.
 
Another thing I'd do before trying to unscrew that bolt counterclockwise from above using whatever method is to check the end of the exposed bolt for corrosion and brush it all off. That could be what's holding it in there in addition to the tension.
 
Another thing I'd do before trying to unscrew that bolt counterclockwise from above using whatever method is to check the end of the exposed bolt for corrosion and brush it all off. That could be what's holding it in there in addition to the tension.
There's no corrosion visible from the bottom, but you can really only see the bottom of the fastener, which is slightly recessed.

As to your earlier question - the extractor is still stuck in the top. I did consider the possibility that I could making things harder. Barring damaging my fork leg, if a shop would need me to remove the fork leg and then either drill it out on a mill or weld a nut, they could do that pretty much no matter what I do to the fastener. It will just cost more.

It does seem like I keep hitting obstacles, but I am also inexperienced at this game, so a certain amount of that is expected. . I'm trying to maintain a positive attitude and view each obstacle or outright failure as a learning opportunity - doesn't matter if you fall down, what matters is whether you get up, blah blah blah. I've given my kids that lecture more than a few times, so I'm putting my money where my mouth is, and if I want to do this stuff myself, I need to learn.

If I feel like I can't drill out the bottom with the front raised on the Skylift, or if that fails, then I will probably (have to) bring it in. Unless I can make friends with a good welder. I always tell my wife I should have married a massage therapist or chiropractor. Maybe I should have married a welder.
 
Without reading the complete thread, have you tried jamming a torx head socket into the bolt?
 
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