It's not sarcasm. It's serious. If you want your problem fixed, listen to the advice.
If you want to read into things and get butt hurt and still have a bike with problems then there's nothing I can do.
People get all weird when it comes to wiring. It's not that hard. But it requires...
You will open all the circuits when you do that. Don't do that. Things can run with a dead battery on a good charging system but they can't with no battery and no ground connection.
... and don't do stupid things like unhooking your battery while the motor is spinning. They will tell you nothing and possibly damage components that aren't already damaged.
Click that link to download a flowchart.
Follow it exactly. Don't skip steps. Don't assume anything. Don't Jump to conclusions. Don't think electricity is mysterious. Don't think it's simple. Don't think you have something special going on.
Start with a fully charged battery and do everything...
When you replace a battery, you should always check the charging voltage.
A charging problems cause dead batteries and if not corrected, will continue to kill new batteries.
... and don't those years of paid absenteeism still count towards their pension? and when/if this is brought to trial they are an X+3 additional years veteran of the police service.
If you're putting 12V to the pump directly and that's how it behaves then it won't be the (external) relay.
The points inside the pump itself are a common failure point as the pump gets old.
One click (or a limited number of clicks) like that would mean that it has successfully pressurized the fuel system beyond to the preset limit of its internal regulator (if the pump were functioning correctly).
It wouldn't do this with the inlet dry.
If it's the same as the RC31 fuel pump then there is a set of electric points inside that usually go and can be replaced cheaply. You just have to take the pump apart to fix it.
If you can blow through the inlet (and hear the br-br-br-br) and not suck through the inlet then the mechanical part...
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