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if you spin the motor at a constant speed and fast enough with a hand ratchet (spark plugs out), it should start putting oil to the top end of the motor. if you have a starter - use that to spin it faster to prime the system. What top end stuff going bad is your concern?

That 650r where the plugs are very confined, and they use coil with spark plug boot design. So the odds that there is crud down there should be low. But I will agree 100% it does not hurt to blow some compressed air - its a good habit I have gotten into.

I would phrase this more like "what a ball park cost would be to have a mechanic remove and replace pipes and do a carb rejet on a '98 Shadow Aero and tune it to run properly"

Ninja 650.. So there are multiple things you can do, here is what I would recommend. If nothing was done to the bike before it got put away, I would MOTOR -------- 1. Pull air box and spark plugs out 2. Spray the cylinders with penetrating oil or something decent, and let it sit. 3. Drain...

what are you trying to do ? run lights for a open trailer ? tell me more about "OEM system implementation" what do you m ean ?

another good tip - check them from after sometime to ensure they are still tight....

for that reason - its best to use blue thread locker!

yes and no. Use locktite to air on the side of caution. If there is going to be fastner that will be a spot for an extended period of time, and there a high chance of galvanic or/and regular corrosion - use anti-seize- it would help from seizing up. Usually frame ssliderbolts go into...

If that bolt is not going to be removed - ie. its something that would not get serviced often. Then a dab of antiseize won't hurt. if you are going to be removing that bolt several time in the life of the bike - use thread locker. Always air on the safer size and use locktite!

Yes, you can use a bottle cleaning brush with some di-electric grease and clean the inside out. it is always a good idea to leave a dab of di-electric grease in to help slow this down.

1. Post a picture of the chain / sprocket, let us see its condition. 2. That '99 250 has a centre stand - if its still on the bike you can roll the wheel back and forth to see pin point the noise. In the event you cannot find it - there are a lot of forum members who would help you find the sound.

That would've been my go tire as well... I've never been a fan of metzler...but after this tire - its temping to try out.

From real world forum member feedback - the person who owns this R3 was in similar shoes. They did not feel confident on the stock tires - I believe it was around 4100kms when they opted to switch out the stock tires. The OEM tires had a lot of area on the corners where they never had been...

No problem - i try to be as helpful as possible Whats your reasoning behing sticking with the 140 rear ? the 150 would offer you more choice

The bias-ply cost less.....so one choice would be to with the radial version.

I've installed two sets of those M7RR's for forum members - they seem to be loving it. One is a pretty spirited rider.

I've worked on a few of the R3'. So a few things to note: The tires that came on the bike - they are Michelin Pilot Street. Michelin makes two versions of this tires. i. Pilot Street - they are bias ply. ii. Pilot Street Radials - they are radials. I have not carefully paid attention to if...

What year is your R3 ?

There are so many components that need to work properly with each other that it's hard to say what it could be. I've rebuilt quite a few sets of USD and regular forks - never had them squeak after. Plus that gsxr has nice internals for it to be making noise. Forks do make normal noise when...

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