Oil extractor

Jampy00

Jampy00

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Long overdue oil change required for my push mower.
Hate tipping it to get oil out, anyone use an oil extractor to do this.
See many listings on Amazon for battery and manual units.
Was considering getting one, maybe use it on other equipment?
 
My Honda is 10+ yrs old, and once a year it gets turned over to drain the oil.
It was a painful method at first, but I'm used to it now.
Plus side is, I know there's nothing left inside when I'm done.
 
I own two , small one , big one . Both are a vacuum type , off brand CTC units . The oil is in the extractor tank not all over everything which works for me . It does take about 10 mins to suck out a liter so plan accordingly.


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Jampy00 said:
Long overdue oil change required for my push mower.
Hate tipping it to get oil out, anyone use an oil extractor to do this.
See many listings on Amazon for battery and manual units.
Was considering getting one, maybe use it on other equipment?
Click to expand...

I use an extractor for almost all oil changes. They are amazing. The major time factor is whether you have a straight shot to an oil pocket so it can suck straight oil or if it sucks some oil and some air. Oil change on my car can be done in 10 minutes. My wife's normally takes much longer as it's hard to suck oil without getting air.

You have a choice of manual pump or compressed air powered pump. I went with hand pump so I can easily use it anywhere. I'm sure compressed air powered would get things done faster when you are sucking air. Mine also allows you to pressure to move fluid out of the reservoir. Good for transferring waste to containers. You could use that for difficult fluid changes (like diffs or trans that fill from under the car) but I use separate systems for those as I don't want oil contamination in trans fluid.
 
Yes, I have one called Topsider. It's metal and well made. Had it about 10yrs now and use it many times a year from lawnmowers, snowmobiles (chaincases) to cars to snowblower and generator. Saves me a ton of time and mess.
 
GreyGhost said:
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I use an extractor for almost all oil changes. They are amazing. The major time factor is whether you have a straight shot to an oil pocket so it can suck straight oil or if it sucks some oil and some air. Oil change on my car can be done in 10 minutes. My wife's normally takes much longer as it's hard to suck oil without getting air.

You have a choice of manual pump or compressed air powered pump. I went with hand pump so I can easily use it anywhere. I'm sure compressed air powered would get things done faster when you are sucking air. Mine also allows you to pressure to move fluid out of the reservoir. Good for transferring waste to containers. You could use that for difficult fluid changes (like diffs or trans that fill from under the car) but I use separate systems for those as I don't want oil contamination in trans fluid.
Click to expand...
my model is the same, i believe you can also attach an air line/compressor to it.
 
Evoex said:
my model is the same, i believe you can also attach an air line/compressor to it.
Click to expand...
I have the mv7201. No compressed air connection. Mv7300 is compressed air but no manual pump. Conceivably, with a little plumbing work and valves, I could convert the 7201 to work with air or muscle.
 
mimico_polak said:
You guys change the oil in your lawnmowers??

Hell I think I need to also then. Haven’t done it in 4 years.
Click to expand...
I'm pushing way more than that. I beat the thing and the oil is still on level and relatively clear. I was amazed.
 
I have a small unit,
You are welcome to borrow it.
Something like the one below.

I will be in Georgetown tomorrow night.
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mimico_polak said:
Hell I think I need to also then. Haven’t done it in 4 years.
Click to expand...

Before I switched to an electric mower about five years ago the mower I used hadn’t had its oil changed in over 15 years lol. It’s not that I didn’t mean to at points, it was just kind of one of those things that never ended up happening

The deck started to get janky in spots and the wheels and bushings all needed to be replaced before the engine ever showed any signs of problems lol. Still ran great, burned no oil at all. Eventually the recoil let go and it all unwound and made a heck of a mess, and with all of its other issues it just didn’t make any sense to try to salvage the engine onto a new lawnmower at that point even though it still ran great. It went to the curb for the scrappers running otherwise perfectly fine just the day before.

I don’t treat any of my other vehicles or toys this way FWIW, but a push mower wasn’t high on my list of maintenance items I guess.
 
Amazing with push mowers and the tiny piston whacking away in there and wee bearings and they see an oil change when the leap yr hits . Explains the number out on big garbage day .


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crankcall said:
Amazing with push mowers and the tiny piston whacking away in there and wee bearings and they see an oil change when the leap yr hits . Explains the number out on big garbage day .


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You'll find many in perfect working order, we live in a throw away society.
I'll openly admit, I'm no where near perfect in my maintenance of my small equipment.
Im actually surprised at how well this mower has been considering I tend to use it like a bush hog...
 
crankcall said:
Amazing with push mowers and the tiny piston whacking away in there and wee bearings and they see an oil change when the leap yr hits . Explains the number out on big garbage day .


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Click to expand...

One of our customers is Lowe’s, we see a lot of power equipment go through our terminal destined to and from a local small engine repair place that has the repair/warranty contract for a few of the big names. I chat with the guys in the shop sometimes about what they see come through the door.

The number one thing that brand new small engine stuff gets sent back to the repair facility for, believe it or not? Owner failed to read the instructions and didn’t add engine oil, or failed to read the instructions and put two-stroke oil in a four stroke crankcase or what not. Engine seizes. Of course it’s not their fault, send back for warranty because “I just stopped”.

Anything older than a year or two, most common reason is carburetor problems - failed to do anything whatsoever for winterizing/summerizing, pulled out in spring or fall, surprised it won’t start.

Third most common problem, flimsy plastic bits in a lot of newer stuff that simply doesn’t hold up, i.e. plastic gears etc.

Then there’s all the gamut of other stuff like hitting a stump and breaking the crankshaft, outright abuse, etc.

A lot of the mowers you see at the curb in the spring are simply a result of people who got tired of endlessly pulling trying to get them started and went and bought an electric one instead lol. The rest, often just worn out in lots of other places like mine was.
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