The first $100 oil change. | Page 3 | GTAMotorcycle.com

The first $100 oil change.

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oioioi said:
Is the motorcycle oil test $50?
What's the turn around time for results?
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I'd be surprised if generic motor oil tests weren't all the same price. Lots of cool info in them. They are most valuable when done repeatedly on a vehicle. Then you get nice trends that show if anything is going wrong (eg when bearings start to go you get a little material but it increases exponentially so you know when you can't put off rebuild any longer.)


Random sample report.

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PrivatePilot said:
$35 USD, so yeah, about $50.

Turnaround is usually about a week or so after they receive it, sometimes less depending on how many they have to process.
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Plus shipping on your own terms I guess.
1 week for them to provide report. Or does that include your shipping them in IN, USA?


GreyGhost said:
I'd be surprised if generic motor oil tests weren't all the same price. Lots of cool info in them. They are most valuable when done repeatedly on a vehicle. Then you get nice trends that show if anything is going wrong (eg when bearings start to go you get a little material but it increases exponentially so you know when you can't put off rebuild any longer.)


Random sample report.

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I did see the sample motorcycle reports.
I like the comments in red. In every day non scientific English terms.

I'll have to see if I have the jug of old oil from the VStrom that I changed at the end of the season. I would be curious to send it in.

However , the oil was first dumped into a 20 year oil pan so it would be technically contaminated with many different oils from years past.

Maybe on the next one I will pour some directly into a sample container and send it in.
 
oioioi said:
Plus shipping on your own terms I guess.
1 week for them to provide report. Or does that include your shipping them in IN, USA?




I did see the sample motorcycle reports.
I like the comments in red. In every day non scientific English terms.

I'll have to see if I have the jug of old oil from the VStrom that I changed at the end of the season. I would be curious to send it in.

However , the oil was first dumped into a 20 year oil pan so it would be technically contaminated with many different oils from years past.

Maybe on the next one I will pour some directly into a sample container and send it in.
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Read up on proper sampling technique before you collect the sample. You may get a far different result testing your oil that has stratified vs warm oil part way through a pour.
 
GreyGhost said:
Read up on proper sampling technique before you collect the sample. You may get a far different result testing your oil that has stratified vs warm oil part way through a pour.
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This is the beauty of oil drain valves like Stahlbus, Fumoto, Valvomax, etc. Lets you sample at any time without waiting for an oil change interval and dumping everything.
 
Relax said:
This is the beauty of oil drain valves like Stahlbus, Fumoto, Valvomax, etc. Lets you sample at any time without waiting for an oil change interval and dumping everything.
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While the valves make it easier, you can pull the plug, wait a second, then sample, replace the plug and pour oil you drained back into engine. Honestly, on most motorcycles, I probably wouldn't bother with mid-term sampling. Sample once a year during a change to track wear works for me if I had a bike I was keeping forever (or a super high strung bike).
 
guzzirider said:
My 1981 Volvo GLT wagon had a main seal oil leak.
Since it had 350,000 on it with some body damage it did not justify doing an engine rebuild.
I never changed the oil or filter again for the next 3 years but just topped it up every few weeks with the cheapest oil I could buy.
Put another 100,000 on the car before I drove it to the scrap yard because the body, suspension, brakes and transmission where shot.
Motor ran just fine.
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ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal

ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal
atpautomotive.com atpautomotive.com

Had a leaking main seal that would lose half a liter of oil in a weeks amount of driving. Tried this stuff on recommendation and leak completely stopped. Honestly I thought pretty much every additive like this was snake oil but wow.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:

ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal

ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal
atpautomotive.com atpautomotive.com

Had a leaking main seal that would lose half a liter of oil in a weeks amount of driving. Tried this stuff on recommendation and leak completely stopped. Honestly I thought pretty much every additive like this was snake oil but wow.
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Wow, now I have to try it. I've seen it discussed in another forum. If it works, it'll save me the work of replacing the rear main seal on the MDX for only $23.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:

ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal

ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal
atpautomotive.com atpautomotive.com

Had a leaking main seal that would lose half a liter of oil in a weeks amount of driving. Tried this stuff on recommendation and leak completely stopped. Honestly I thought pretty much every additive like this was snake oil but wow.
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When my dad was commuting long distances and tracking fuel mileage, he tried an engine additive. Almost 10 mpg bump immediately and it tapered back to original number over 50k km. It was expensive (maybe $100?) But easily came out ahead.
 
Relax said:
Wow, now I have to try it. I've seen it discussed in another forum. If it works, it'll save me the work of replacing the rear main seal on the MDX for only $23.
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I've got a spare bottle you can have if you're in my hood anytime soon (when I say hood I mean forest). Bought a 2-pack thinking half would leak out before the 5hr stated drive time it needs to circulate and be fully effective but it was sealed up by hour 2.
 
Relax said:
Some M3 owners use these Blackstone tests to determine when they need to change their bearings.
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I had to use a third party (not Blackstone) to convince the Dealer that the motor was running too cold to vaporize the blow-by (forced induction motor) fuel vapor and it was ending up polluting the crankcase oil.
Turned out that this later was a nation-wide recall or TSB ( Dealers hate the word "recall")
 
oioioi said:
That's what I was thinking just couldn't come up with the name.

Need to call mom as she has access to those.

EDIT: Order placed. lol
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Order arrived. These should last me for the rest of my life.


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Different thickness' for all the different viscosities that I may need. lol
 
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I can't believe Rotella is $70! I have ridden 82k with T6. Great oil. I always scour kijiji and FB for cheap sealed oil. Save me a few bucks lol
 
Can Am Spudwr OEM oil kit includes full synthetic, filter and all O rings was $184+ HST in the fall. I do my own changes. Dealership charges $350 for kit and change.

Takes about 45 minutes for me tondonthe change including pulling fairings and emptying both oil plugs..lol
 
hedo2002 said:
Can Am Spudwr OEM oil kit includes full synthetic, filter and all O rings was $184+ HST in the fall. I do my own changes. Dealership charges $350 for kit and change.

Takes about 45 minutes for me tondonthe change including pulling fairings and emptying both oil plugs..lol
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Are you sure on the full synthetic part? I bought this kit for my wife's spyder last summer and was a little dismayed to discover that for the price (I think I paid around $125), it was only a synthetic blend, not 100% synthetic.
 
PrivatePilot said:
Are you sure on the full synthetic part? I bought this kit for my wife's spyder last summer and was a little dismayed to discover that for the price (I think I paid around $125), it was only a synthetic blend, not 100% synthetic.
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Yes the Can-Am XPS oil included in the kit is NOT synthetic.
 
I'll be looking into what people are using for aftermarket oils and just buy the filter and seal kit this year. I just needed to do the first oil change quick before my wife went for a long trip and they didn't have a filter only kit at my local BRP dealer the day I was changing it, so I just grabbed what they had.

Not sure if people are using Rotella in spyders or not but I will definitely be doing some reading.
 
PrivatePilot said:
I'll be looking into what people are using for aftermarket oils and just buy the filter and seal kit this year. I just needed to do the first oil change quick before my wife went for a long trip and they didn't have a filter only kit at my local BRP dealer the day I was changing it, so I just grabbed what they had.

Not sure if people are using Rotella in spyders or not but I will definitely be doing some reading.
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We're on our 5th and 6th Spyders and I use Rotella T6.. for the last 6 years.
Amsoil before that in the Spyders and our two-wheelers.
 
nhoj said:
We're on our 5th and 6th Spyders and I use Rotella T6.. for the last 6 years.
Amsoil before that in the Spyders and our two-wheelers.
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My wife's has the older 998 engine however so I need to check specific to that critter.
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