What did you do in your garage today..?

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I suppose tidy the garage is on my list! Excuse the mess.


Anyways! New pipes installed and they are way too loud. I liked the idea of old school fish tails and could remove them if I didn’t like them. Not for everyone but, for a cruiser they fit the overall look.


The sound however isn’t appealing. I should have ordered the optional baffles but, I’ve had slip on’s for HDs over the years and found them decent.

I need to short shift to second before leaving the driveway.

Stock is too quiet and the T100 I had was perfect. I’ll sort it out over the winter.


Pics for fun. Slide to right or left to see different images in the link.

https://imgur.com/a/H7iND3v
 
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Jayell said:
Why not simply use the appropriate socket (21mm in this case) and a ½" ratchet? Or use an impact driver at low speed?
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No fiddling. Instead of always digging for a socket and ratchet this always stays with the lift. I stand the lift on end to store it and the handle drops nicely into it.
The lift is efficient so it doesn't warrant screwing with a power tool. And when it comes to say changing a tire and you want the tire just a smidge off the ground the T handle makes it easy to adjust height by a 1/4 or 1/8 turn - accuracy that would be hit and miss with an impact driver.
 
timtune said:
No fiddling. Instead of always digging for a socket and ratchet this always stays with the lift. I stand the lift on end to store it and the handle drops nicely into it.
The lift is efficient so it doesn't warrant screwing with a power tool. And when it comes to say changing a tire and you want the tire just a smidge off the ground the T handle makes it easy to adjust height by a 1/4 or 1/8 turn - accuracy that would be hit and miss with an impact driver.
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Yours didn't come with a t-handle?
 
timtune said:
The lift is efficient so it doesn't warrant screwing with a power tool. And when it comes to say changing a tire and you want the tire just a smidge off the ground the T handle makes it easy to adjust height by a 1/4 or 1/8 turn - accuracy that would be hit and miss with an impact driver.
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I've had the same lift for years. I use a socket and my Ridgid impact driver to adjust it

For finagling wheels front and rear to slide in the axle I use an air shim. Got 2 of them for $20 on Amazon.

 
timtune said:
No fiddling. Instead of always digging for a socket and ratchet this always stays with the lift. I stand the lift on end to store it and the handle drops nicely into it.
The lift is efficient so it doesn't warrant screwing with a power tool. And when it comes to say changing a tire and you want the tire just a smidge off the ground the T handle makes it easy to adjust height by a 1/4 or 1/8 turn - accuracy that would be hit and miss with an impact driver.
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I've had no difficulties setting my lift with an impact driver. Quick and easy, for any position.

Isn't the T handle's use limited by its size? How can it be used effectively at low heights?
 
And while we're talking about lifts, get a load of this!

Fortnine, $787.99 https://fortnine.ca/en/k-l-mc450-ce...&objectID=249092&indexName=master_en_products

a4ce7cfb1f43e52c601e001d293be2d8.jpg


Princess Auto, $139.99, on sale occasionally for about $70.00. 1,100 lb Motorcycle/ATV Lift

f37cec0d48109041f71401c207fe47de.jpg
 
Jayell said:
I've had no difficulties setting my lift with an impact driver. Quick and easy, for any position.

Isn't the T handle's use limited by its size? How can it be used effectively at low heights?
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At low heights I just angle the handle a bit. This T handle idea works great for me but really seems to bother you so just use what ever works best for you.
 
Relax said:
Yours didn't come with a t-handle?
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No. It came with a handle I thought was kind of lame.

Again this works well for me. If you prefer something else I'm perfectly fine with that. What ever cranks your lift.
 
timtune said:
At low heights I just angle the handle a bit. This T handle idea works great for me but really seems to bother you so just use what ever works best for you.
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Haha! Not bothered in the least, bud. You turn your wrenches any way you like; I'll do the same.
 
I'm in St. Catharines yesterday with my 98 year old aunt visiting the grave site of her sister who passed on 6 months ago at the age of 100.

Back in the SUV, and upon startup, the battery light and the check engine light come on.............. Great, we're 85 km from home with an elderly relative with very limited mobility and the car is acting up. Shut off engine and checked belt and it was good. Drove to the QEW entrance ramp area, stopped off the road and turned off the vehicle off again. It started up OK, both warning lights still on, seemed to be running fine and it got us home.

This AM started up and battery light did not come on, engine check light still on. Disconnected and cleaned terminals. The disconnect reset the engine light and it is still off after a few startups. Multimeter test indicates battery is 12.3V and then running it is 14.4V. After running for a few minutes and then turned off the battery is 12.8V.................

So, have to monitor this for a few days and see if the corroded terminals caused an issue with the battery charge, hence its initial 12.3V reading.

The SUV is 6.5 years old, the battery is original and doesn't owe me anything. Planning to trade in next March or April and really not wanting to replace a $300+ battery if I don't need to. Also don't want any issues at the cottage morning after a -30 degree + windchill night.
 
ReSTored said:
I'm in St. Catharines yesterday with my 98 year old aunt visiting the grave site of her sister who passed on 6 months ago at the age of 100.

Back in the SUV, and upon startup, the battery light and the check engine light come on.............. Great, we're 85 km from home with an elderly relative with very limited mobility and the car is acting up. Shut off engine and checked belt and it was good. Drove to the QEW entrance ramp area, stopped off the road and turned off the vehicle off again. It started up OK, both warning lights still on, seemed to be running fine and it got us home.

This AM started up and battery light did not come on, engine check light still on. Disconnected and cleaned terminals. The disconnect reset the engine light and it is still off after a few startups. Multimeter test indicates battery is 12.3V and then running it is 14.4V. After running for a few minutes and then turned off the battery is 12.8V.................

So, have to monitor this for a few days and see if the corroded terminals caused an issue with the battery charge, hence its initial 12.3V reading.

The SUV is 6.5 years old, the battery is original and doesn't owe me anything. Planning to trade in next March or April and really not wanting to replace a $300+ battery if I don't need to. Also don't want any issues at the cottage morning after a -30 degree + windchill night.
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Why is the battery so expensive? I just had an interesting battery failure in my car. Voltage tested fine and most of the time it worked perfectly and load tested perfectly. Occasionally, it would fall flat on it's face and not even have enough power to power the computer yet alone crank. I narrowed it down to internal physical failure. Inflicting some violence on the battery could change whether it cranked the car easily or dropped to 4V when trying to power up the computer. Grabbed a replaced from costco for $170.
 
I have FINALLY taken the cold plunge into replacing the wiring harness on my 1974 Norton commando.

I cannot describe adequately what a previous owner created. There was a pigtail under the tank (about 12" long) terminating in multiple connectors not plugged into anything and 4 or 5 other paired connections dangling all over the place with nothing to plug into. There were so many bullet connectors under the tank it wouldn't sit correctly. The entire mess was tightly wrapped in untold yards of black electrical tape.

This is about as simple an electrical system as could be. It's got lights but no electric start. It is a positive ground though.

I didn't need to chase the wires. I suppose I could have just unplugged it all and cut it out but my curiosity got the better of me and I've got time.

The combined length of the replacement headlight and main harnesses is about half the length of all this.
mess.jpg
 
xrljoel said:
I have FINALLY taken the cold plunge into replacing the wiring harness on my 1974 Norton commando.

I cannot describe adequately what a previous owner created. There was a pigtail under the tank (about 12" long) terminating in multiple connectors not plugged into anything and 4 or 5 other paired connections dangling all over the place with nothing to plug into. There were so many bullet connectors under the tank it wouldn't sit correctly. The entire mess was tightly wrapped in untold yards of black electrical tape.

This is about as simple an electrical system as could be. It's got lights but no electric start. It is a positive ground though.

I didn't need to chase the wires. I suppose I could have just unplugged it all and cut it out but my curiosity got the better of me and I've got time.

The combined length of the replacement headlight and main harnesses is about half the length of all this.
View attachment 80474
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Did you wire up a new harness yourself?
 
Moving crap around to get the car into the garage.
 
GreyGhost said:
Why is the battery so expensive? ............................. Grabbed a replaced from costco for $170.
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My battery is a 94R, an AGM vs. a standard lead acid, 800 CCA.

Cheapest I found was about $260 and Costco was out of stock, so no price listed.

I'll be monitoring my battery for a while so if it does need to be replaced maybe Costco will have stock and a better price.
 
ReSTored said:
My battery is a 94R, an AGM vs. a standard lead acid, 800 CCA.

Cheapest I found was about $260 and Costco was out of stock, so no price listed.

I'll be monitoring my battery for a while so if it does need to be replaced maybe Costco will have stock and a better price.
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I was curious and checked for my car - turns out it uses the same as yours and shows $194.99 + $15 core.

Group H7(94R) Automotive Battery Battery | Costco Batteries

Buy Group H7(94R) Automotive Battery Batteries for your VehicleSearchCriteria at low Costco prices. Batteries purchased online include Free Shipping.
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