I'd also add a whole house panel surge protector as well.
Not sure why more people don't do this, shoud be standard equipment IMO. (it is required in the US)
What would trip the main house breaker?
- Thread starter DJM
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I'd also add a whole house panel surge protector as well.
Not sure why more people don't do this, shoud be standard equipment IMO. (it is required in the US)
Sadly, many of the ones I have seen have been crap installs. Installed far from input, longer than necessary wiring, etc. Adds cost to the install while adding minimal protection.
In my 40+ years in this trade, I've yet to come across a Zinsco panel in Ontario.
Stablok? yes, we installed MANY of them in the 80s and 90s.
LIttle did we know they were a disaster waiting to happen.
hire a qualified sparky that knows what he is doing, we do em all the time.
look at the Sq D 80 model. great device with a $50k manufacturer warranty
410001661
Well-known member
Sounds like you back fed your panel and when the utility came on-line you had a bolted fault and that is what tripped your breaker. Most surges are low amperage and high in magnitude and would not trip a 100A breaker. I install a transfer switch so that you have to open your utility CB before closing the generator CB.
I think he later said that he just used extension chords to power up his pump and fridge from his generator, that wouldn’t have caused any faults.
And in fact, it would remove many of the surge loads when the power is reconnected.
Even with the generator connected, I'd be surprised if the main blew. I would expect the grid to hammer the poor generator. A dumb generator would probably get pulled into phase almost instantly (big inrush current but very very short duration and if anything blew it should be the generator breaker). I have no idea what happens with an invertor generator, it probably lets the smoke out. It's been a long time since I had to synchronize AC sources and parallel them. At the time, I used a phaser to ensure sources were very closely aligned before closing them in.
The only main I've ever blown was a 400A 207V while doing a concert. That mother was too hot to touch when we needed to reset it. Wiring was fine, it was just a combination of a big bass hit at the same time as all lights were pushed to max. While we would often hang 100kW of lights, normally only a small percentage were on at a time. The effect was pretty awesome with huge sound and blinding lights immediately followed by darkness and silence.
Layman here.................
If you're using a generator connected via extension cord(s) to power a small number of appliances unplugged from the receptacle and then plugged into the extension cord IMO you're completely isolated from the grid.
If you're using a generator connected to a properly installed transfer switch then you're completely isolated from the grid as well.
If you're using a generator connected via extension cord(s) to power a small number of appliances unplugged from the receptacle and then plugged into the extension cord IMO you're completely isolated from the grid.
If you're using a generator connected to a properly installed transfer switch then you're completely isolated from the grid as well.
Correct. In the first case, there is obviously most of your house still grid connected but the generator and grid are completely isolated.
410001661
Well-known member
I have seen my share of cottage Handy Men that would connect their generator to a 2-pole 30A breaker and backfeed the panel.........every now and again they forget to open the main CB
You can't fix stupid but you can make it really expensive.I have seen my share of cottage Handy Men that would connect their generator to a 2-pole 30A breaker and backfeed the panel.........every now and again they forget to open the main CB
I like the Generlink setup for the following reasons
1) It’s cost effective, especially if you already have a generator. I recommend a 7500W or larger generator but you can probably get by with a 5000W one.
2) It will keep running as long as you can keep putting gas in it. If you are on natural gas that’s not a big deal. If you live in the country and your on propane that’s a different story. A large generator like a Generac can burn through propane rather quickly and if you empty your tank during an extended power outage not only do you not have power, you also don’t have heat. People that live in the country with propane tanks always make the mistake of getting the biggest generator they can afford, bad idea. Get one just big enough to run what you need and get double the run time or more on a smaller generator.
1) It’s cost effective, especially if you already have a generator. I recommend a 7500W or larger generator but you can probably get by with a 5000W one.
2) It will keep running as long as you can keep putting gas in it. If you are on natural gas that’s not a big deal. If you live in the country and your on propane that’s a different story. A large generator like a Generac can burn through propane rather quickly and if you empty your tank during an extended power outage not only do you not have power, you also don’t have heat. People that live in the country with propane tanks always make the mistake of getting the biggest generator they can afford, bad idea. Get one just big enough to run what you need and get double the run time or more on a smaller generator.
The problem with generlink in many houses is the meter is very exposed to the street. That puts the generator (or a thick extension cord) in a very visible location that is easy for dirtbags to steal. I prefer transfer switches and wiring to allow you to locate the generator in a more secure and less visible location.
Be careful relying on NG for generators. A "5000 watt" generator probably gets you 3200 steady watts on NG. That assumes you have a large enough supply line (which you probably don't unless you installed it specifically for this). Most grill lines might not even give you that as they are too small (generators want 1/2" or greater and most bbq lines are 3/8"). Once you add up the cost of generlink, the cost of a larger gas line run to somewhere you want the generator and the cost of the cord to get the power from the generator to the generlink, you are well into thousands of dollars.
I think a Generlink with a 30’ chord is about $1400. Whitby does not charge for isolation to allow you to install it and does not require a permit. Toronto charges for a disconnect ($500-$1000) and requires a permit. Most rural areas with power supplied by Hydro1 get a free isolation but require a permit. A permit is about $100 and in all cases a licensed electrical contractor is required to do the work, it literally takes about 5 minutes.
A 2000W generator can likely handle that load (assuming gas furnace and not a plasma TV).
AllistonGT
Well-known member
So your furnace has a plug on it?
A nice (but afaik not code compliant in Canada for furnace) approach is to have two electrical systems in place in a few key locations. Move the plug from black receptacle to red receptacle and it is on the generator. Receptacles for furnace, fridges and one beside his TV and you can power the important things without extension cords.
AllistonGT
Well-known member
Furnace with a plug is not compliant. Though some have it plugged in and that outlet is switched to get around the code. But its doesn't.
