Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

[Jampy00]

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4k for eaves, soffits and facia including repairs to previous work.
This is just for the back of the house 2 straight sections of maybe 70ft total and 3 downspouts.

Siding was 29k for aluminum and 1" foam insulation. We need it done but don't have 29k and don't want to replace junk with new junk..

I know nothing on how to this and I'm not willing to learn on my house, plus none of the proper tools for the metal work. I'll stick to working my property

 

[mimico_polak]

4k for eaves, soffits and facia including repairs to previous work.
This is just for the back of the house 2 straight sections of maybe 70ft total and 3 downspouts.

Siding was 29k for aluminum and 1" foam insulation. We need it done but don't have 29k and don't want to replace junk with new junk..

I know nothing on how to this and I'm not willing to learn on my house, plus none of the proper tools for the metal work. I'll stick to working my property

29k for siding and insulation is a steal!

When I was quoting my job for siding and insulation the price was $70k for vinyl siding (no insulation) and 140k for 1” insulation and James Hardie siding.

Did the siding myself as I didn’t have that type of cash. $33k all in (with new shed, flashing, brick, door, fence sections, etc).

 

[JC99]

4k for eaves, soffits and facia including repairs to previous work.
This is just for the back of the house 2 straight sections of maybe 70ft total and 3 downspouts.

Siding was 29k for aluminum and 1" foam insulation. We need it done but don't have 29k and don't want to replace junk with new junk..

I know nothing on how to this and I'm not willing to learn on my house, plus none of the proper tools for the metal work. I'll stick to working my property

Do you already have siding on? I think we are just going to repaint ours to refresh it. The cost to replace seems a bit outrageous.

On another note. Dropped something heavy on the fridge interior and have a crack there now. Google says fill with silicone, my thoughts are that doesn’t sound like it will give any rigid strength to that area. Wondering about plastic welding but I’m not sure I could do a decent enough job that wouldn’t look like a complete **** up. Is the silicone solution decent?

 

[backmarkerducati]

Do you already have siding on? I think we are just going to repaint ours to refresh it. The cost to replace seems a bit outrageous.

On another note. Dropped something heavy on the fridge interior and have a crack there now. Google says fill with silicone, my thoughts are that doesn’t sound like it will give any rigid strength to that area. Wondering about plastic welding but I’m not sure I could do a decent enough job that wouldn’t look like a complete **** up. Is the silicone solution decent?

You could try some two part epoxy but first test to see if it will stick to the plastic... Paint it white afterwards.

 

[JC99]

You could try some two part epoxy but first test to see if it will stick to the plastic... Paint it white afterwards.

Crappy tire has this… General PDP Template

Might do the job. Probably would need a gloss layer though.

 

[backmarkerducati]

Crappy tire has this… General PDP Template

Might do the job. Probably would need a gloss layer though.

Yes that may work.

I also like the epoxy sticks for this type of repair as they add material. The ones where you cut off a piece and kneed it.

I would also drill two very small holes at the very ends of the crack before the repair, to stop it from propagating. Likely overkill as I doubt it is under stress...

 

[nobbie48]

Do you already have siding on? I think we are just going to repaint ours to refresh it. The cost to replace seems a bit outrageous.

On another note. Dropped something heavy on the fridge interior and have a crack there now. Google says fill with silicone, my thoughts are that doesn’t sound like it will give any rigid strength to that area. Wondering about plastic welding but I’m not sure I could do a decent enough job that wouldn’t look like a complete **** up. Is the silicone solution decent?

There are really good paints out there now and every colour of the rainbow. Just do a good prep and use the right stuff and you should be good.

Is the fridge crack in a liner or shelf? Silicone doesn't sound right to me.

I would look at picking a solvent cement that was compatible with the plastic and if it's possible to access the back of the crack, add a reinforcing strip.

Per Google:
AI Overview


Refrigerator interior liners in Canada are primarily made from
High Impact Polystyrene (HIPS) and Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS). These thermoplastics are chosen for their durability, low-temperature toughness, and ease of thermoforming into complex shapes. HIPS is often used for its cost-effectiveness, while ABS is used for superior structural strength and chemical resistance, particularly on liners.
Piedmont Plastics +4
Key Materials for Fridge Interiors:

• High Impact Polystyrene (HIPS): The most common material for the main inner liner and door linings, often chosen for its balance of strength and cost.
• Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS): Frequently used for inner door panels and high-stress areas because it is more rigid and durable than HIPS.
• Propylene-Ethylene Copolymers: Sometimes used in blends with polyethylene
• or EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate) to provide improved resistance to chemicals, such as cleaning agents.
• Foamed Polyurethane: Although not the liner material itself, this is the insulating foam layer located directly behind the plastic liner.
  Piedmont Plastics +3

These materials are compliant with safety standards for food-contact surfaces, ensuring they do not degrade under cold, moist conditions.
The Madison Group
AI Overview




For polystyrene plastic, the best cements are solvent-based products that "weld" the plastic by melting the surfaces together, creating a strong, permanent bond. Top recommendations include Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (highly popular for precision), Plastruct Bondene, and Testors Plastic Cement. These are ideal for model kits and generally set in minutes.

ABS plastic cement is a specialized solvent, often yellow or black in color, that chemically welds ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) plastic parts together at a molecular level. Unlike standard glue, it melts the plastic to create a strong, durable, and leak-proof bond for plumbing (pipes, fittings), 3D prints, and model kits. No primer is required, and it sets in roughly 30 minutes.
Oatey +4

 

[JC99]

There are really good paints out there now and every colour of the rainbow. Just do a good prep and use the right stuff and you should be good.

Is the fridge crack in a liner or shelf? Silicone doesn't sound right to me.

I would look at picking a solvent cement that was compatible with the plastic and if it's possible to access the back of the crack, add a reinforcing strip.

Per Google:
AI Overview


Refrigerator interior liners in Canada are primarily made from
High Impact Polystyrene (HIPS) and Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS). These thermoplastics are chosen for their durability, low-temperature toughness, and ease of thermoforming into complex shapes. HIPS is often used for its cost-effectiveness, while ABS is used for superior structural strength and chemical resistance, particularly on liners.
Piedmont Plastics +4
Key Materials for Fridge Interiors:

• High Impact Polystyrene (HIPS): The most common material for the main inner liner and door linings, often chosen for its balance of strength and cost.
• Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS): Frequently used for inner door panels and high-stress areas because it is more rigid and durable than HIPS.
• Propylene-Ethylene Copolymers: Sometimes used in blends with polyethylene
• or EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate) to provide improved resistance to chemicals, such as cleaning agents.
• Foamed Polyurethane: Although not the liner material itself, this is the insulating foam layer located directly behind the plastic liner.
  Piedmont Plastics +3

These materials are compliant with safety standards for food-contact surfaces, ensuring they do not degrade under cold, moist conditions.
The Madison Group
AI Overview




For polystyrene plastic, the best cements are solvent-based products that "weld" the plastic by melting the surfaces together, creating a strong, permanent bond. Top recommendations include Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (highly popular for precision), Plastruct Bondene, and Testors Plastic Cement. These are ideal for model kits and generally set in minutes.

ABS plastic cement is a specialized solvent, often yellow or black in color, that chemically welds ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) plastic parts together at a molecular level. Unlike standard glue, it melts the plastic to create a strong, durable, and leak-proof bond for plumbing (pipes, fittings), 3D prints, and model kits. No primer is required, and it sets in roughly 30 minutes.
Oatey +4

Yes the liner. A search on Google pulled up repairs with silicone which also seemed weird to me. I'm not going to be able to easily access the back of the crack without making things worse I don’t think. It’s hollow under there too so if I tried to push material underneath through the crack I don’t know how successful that would be. It’s not a serious issue or anything but it bugs me every time I open the fridge and see the crack,

 

[Mad Mike]

Yes the liner. A search on Google pulled up repairs with silicone which also seemed weird to me. I'm not going to be able to easily access the back of the crack without making things worse I don’t think. It’s hollow under there too so if I tried to push material underneath through the crack I don’t know how successful that would be. It’s not a serious issue or anything but it bugs me every time I open the fridge and see the crack,

Fringe liners are usually HIPS for residential, ABS for commercial.

Tools/supplies:
5 minute epoxy (or plastic epoxy)
1/8” drill bit and drill
80 sandpaper
Pointy awl or pick.
Hair dryer
Beer

1. Drill 1/8 holes at the end of each crack to stop it from running, and at 3/4 intervals along the crack to provide extra adhesion.
2. Lightly tooth the surface along the crack so the epoxy sticks. Clean with rubbing alcohol.
3. Warm the area to room temp with hairdryer
4. Poke the awl into middle holes to spread the crack enough to press epoxy into the crack then apply epoxy. Try to push epoxy into the crack and into the drilled holes, you want an airtight seal.
5 Open beer.

If you’re careful all you’ll see is a little yellowing along the crack and drilled holes. White nail polish will hide the crack.

 

[JC99]

Fringe liners are usually HIPS for residential, ABS for commercial.

Tools/supplies:
5 minute epoxy (or plastic epoxy)
1/8” drill bit and drill
80 sandpaper
Pointy awl or pick.
Hair dryer
Beer

1. Drill 1/8 holes at the end of each crack to stop it from running, and at 3/4 intervals along the crack to provide extra adhesion.
2. Lightly tooth the surface along the crack so the epoxy sticks. Clean with rubbing alcohol.
3. Warm the area to room temp with hairdryer
4. Poke the awl into middle holes to spread the crack enough to press epoxy into the crack then apply epoxy. Try to push epoxy into the crack and into the drilled holes, you want an airtight seal.
5 Open beer.

If you’re careful all you’ll see is a little yellowing along the crack and drilled holes. White nail polish will hide the crack.

I can sand the epoxy flat after it’s set right? It’s a relatively new fridge and I’d like to try to make it look as good as I can.

 

[Mad Mike]

I can sand the epoxy flat after it’s set right? It’s a relatively new fridge and I’d like to try to make it look as good as I can.

Yes, but the skill is in applying it precisely so you don’t need to sand much. The epoxy is much harder than the plastic, it will be tough to sand. apply carefully and remove excess with an exacto knife before it fully hardens (2-3 minutes is all you get with 5 minute epoxy).

 

[Jampy00]

29k for siding and insulation is a steal!

When I was quoting my job for siding and insulation the price was $70k for vinyl siding (no insulation) and 140k for 1” insulation and James Hardie siding.

Did the siding myself as I didn’t have that type of cash. $33k all in (with new shed, flashing, brick, door, fence sections, etc).

Interesting, I have no clue on pricing but regardless I don't have 29k and no plans on borrowing any money this year. Too many payments already.

 

[mimico_polak]

Interesting, I have no clue on pricing but regardless I don't have 29k and no plans on borrowing any money this year. Too many payments already.

Is the current siding bad or just looks aged? If it just looks aged then a coat of paint will make a world of difference.

If it’s bad then the time will come eventually. I figure so long as water isn’t getting in….youre good.

You may also get colour matched caulk if you need to patch a few cracks / penetrations.

 

[Jampy00]

Is the current siding bad or just looks aged? If it just looks aged then a coat of paint will make a world of difference.

If it’s bad then the time will come eventually. I figure so long as water isn’t getting in….youre good.

You may also get colour matched caulk if you need to patch a few cracks / penetrations.

Siding is handyman special, not putting any money into it. When our budget is better we'll replace. Hopefully it survives until then.

 

[Mad Mike]

Siding is handyman special, not putting any money into it. When our budget is better we'll replace. Hopefully it survives until then.

Siding is often done by handyman types because it’s relatively easy to do.

But it’s also one of the most botched things I see in renovations. Small mistakes and shortcuts can have catastrophic consequences.

Leaky joints and flashing, improper ventilation, and critter intrusion points don’t show up as problems for years, but when they do they can lead to pricy repairs.

 

[mimico_polak]

Siding is often done by handyman types because it’s relatively easy to do.

But it’s also one of the most botched things I see in renovations. Small mistakes and shortcuts can have catastrophic consequences.

Leaky joints and flashing, improper ventilation, and critter intrusion points don’t show up as problems for years, but when they do they can lead to pricy repairs.

Yup. Have seen the ‘specialists’ and ‘pros’ do horrifying things with siding.

I figure if the pros do such a job lots of times, I can take my chances and save 100k.

I’d say ours worked out pretty good. Not perfect but well done.

 

[Jampy00]

Yup. Have seen the ‘specialists’ and ‘pros’ do horrifying things with siding.

I figure if the pros do such a job lots of times, I can take my chances and save 100k.

I’d say ours worked out pretty good. Not perfect but well done.

I was thinking of tackling this project myself, but don't want to replace bad workmanship with slightly less bad workmanship. Lol

 

[mimico_polak]

I was thinking of tackling this project myself, but don't want to replace bad workmanship with slightly less bad workmanship. Lol

The biggest mistake people make with vinyl siding is the nail is too tight and doesn’t allow the vinyl to expand and contract with temperature changes.

Look at any vinyl siding in your area on a hot day and you’ll see the effect in wavy siding. It’s because it’s fixed in place and can’t float to allow for expansion.

 

[nobbie48]

The biggest mistake people make with vinyl siding is the nail is too tight and doesn’t allow the vinyl to expand and contract with temperature changes.

Look at any vinyl siding in your area on a hot day and you’ll see the effect in wavy siding. It’s because it’s fixed in place and can’t float to allow for expansion.

I used screwed on some aluminum siding. It was easier to control the set. BTW the same for roofing shingles. Drive the nails too deep and leak points can occur. The neighbour just replaced a 1 YO roof.

 

[Mad Mike]

I was thinking of tackling this project myself, but don't want to replace bad workmanship with slightly less bad workmanship. Lol

It’s a reasonable DIY project, no especially tools or skills required. Just follow best practices and don’t take shortcuts.

Tools: string line or laser level, 4’ level, hammer, skill or chop saw.

Remove existing siding.

• Repair any deteriorated sheeting and house wrap, if no house wrap exists, add it now.
• Blue skin around windows and door openings, tape seams.
• If you want extra insulation, add rigid foam over housewrap.
• Tape and seal seams.
• Vertically strap for better ventilation and moisture protection
• Nail up siding following manufacturer installation guide ( seams, fastener placement and tightness, corners)

Labor costs can exceed material cost, so there is a big savings in DIY.

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