I think he's talking about this, not a normal screwdriver. All that I have seen are close to the same size. You can find longer bits but you lose a lot of the torque through a long bit.
What did you do in your garage today..?
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I don’t know how to test head bearings but mean to learn. Tire pressure is fine.
What confuses me in all this is just how inconsistent it is for me. Nobody on the forums describes this kind of inconsistency. For me it can be bad for a while, then completely go away for a few hours, then get bad again - all the same sort of speeds, all on the very same ride.
Does it have a center stand? Easiest quick tests have you get the front wheel in the air (center stand and sit on the seat is the easiest). Move bars back and forth. Often old bearings have a click in or near the centre where the balls have made a home (caused by sitting in one place for a long time). Those bearings need replaced. Next test is push/pull on the bars and/or wheel and note if you can feel any clicks or motion in any direction (other than rotation in the proper axis).
Yeah that’s the style I have.I think he's talking about this, not a normal screwdriver. All that I have seen are close to the same size. You can find longer bits but you lose a lot of the torque through a long bit.
The ones that worked for me are these:
MEGADORA IMPACTA No.980(Ph No.2 x 100) | PRODUCTS INFORMATION | VESSEL CO., INC. And they make great screwdrivers for normal application.
I know you lose torque but if you can’t get to where you need to be it doesn’t matter. I guess you could run a long extension.
It does. Thank you @GreyGhost - I’ll give it a shot!
pecan_choco_hurricane
Well-known member
that's good that it works as a daily. i want a taller vehicle as im tired of suvs lights burning my pupils in a sedan at night and my car is over 10yrs old.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Rule 1: right tool for the job.
M12 is the first problem. These are 80ftlbs of torque, made for light torque applications like assembling cabinets, electrical boxes, hvac sheet metal etc. they will stop and cam out of a heavier Phillips fastener.
An m18 is double the torque, an m18 Fuel (professional grade) almost 3x torque. I’ll bet the m18 would have whipped out no problem.
Rule 2: using the tool
Hard and fast, not slow and easy. Breaking loose a galled or rusty fastener needs sharp solid impact and lots of torque.
Good marks on the use of a drill and extractor!
If you think it is going to suck, some grit paste on the bit can also buy you some luck.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I don’t think the bit length has a material effect on torque, there isn’t much twist in those heavy shanks.I think he's talking about this, not a normal screwdriver. All that I have seen are close to the same size. You can find longer bits but you lose a lot of the torque through a long bit.
If longer bits make it easier to approach the fastener and use the tool, use the longer bits.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Great suggestion. I keep a tube of valve grinding compound in my box, I use it occasionally on Allen heads and hose clamp hex head fasteners (I do a lot of pumps and water supply lines- corrosion and mineral buildup are not my friends).
It can make a huge difference. Torque sticks for wheels are just various diameters (and often lengths) of bar to limit torque at the far end. On a steady pull, torque passes through. On an impact, the bar winds up and absorbs some torque. An impact driver is using a pretty small cross section bar. Conceivably, a bar could exist that was larger diameter but I haven't seen one. Even leaving it round and upsetting both ends would stiffen it greatly over a hex bar.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Torque sticks are made from spring steel, they are designed to absorb torque by acting like a spring.
Tool bits are hardened, at max torque a 5/16x4” bit might see a rotational absorbtion of 10% which a 2lb hammer and a really hard blow.
That may be moot as the torque loss is minimal, and the fastener is likely to fail/break long before torque loss becomes an issue.
If your looking for wall mounted rack storage for tools or lumber then Busy Bee had a good option on sale to Nov. 8.
www.busybeetools.com
Regular price is $59.99, online sale price is $52.95, but in store price is just $32.95.
I previously purchased 2 of these in store and use one for lumber and the second one in a shed for rakes, shovels, weed whackers etc..... I mounted the shed unit with a bottom spacer so the unit is tilted back to the wall so items on a shelf don't roll off. Can't beat the price on these.
Buy 6 Shelf Lumber Storage Rack at Busy Bee Tools
The Craftex 6-Shelf Lumber Rack System is a heavy-duty storage solution designed to keep your lumber, pipes, and other long materials organized and easily accessible. Made from durable steel with a powder-coated finish, this rack system provides strong support while maximizing vertical storage...
www.busybeetools.com
Regular price is $59.99, online sale price is $52.95, but in store price is just $32.95.
I previously purchased 2 of these in store and use one for lumber and the second one in a shed for rakes, shovels, weed whackers etc..... I mounted the shed unit with a bottom spacer so the unit is tilted back to the wall so items on a shelf don't roll off. Can't beat the price on these.
Do a search on Modern Vespa forum. The level of small dick energy the owner exudes is off the charts. The mods there are the most miserable people you could ever imagine on a Vespa. But there are some knowledgeable folks there and the GTS speed wobble has been well documented.
I ride with OEM top case and no windshield on my GTS full throttle on the 401 all day and no wobble for me:
PS: Even with the missus on the back, no wobble issues on the 401. It's not something I do every often, but now and then I'll jump on if I'm just going to be on there for 10-20 minutes.
One more thought... Stupid question but, with the change in weather, whens the last time you checked your tire pressure?
Being so tiny, vespa tires are way more sensitive to temperatures cooling when it comes to losing pressure.
Maybe also make sure your wheel weights are still on while you're down there?
pecan_choco_hurricane
Well-known member
last time i'd reuse a gasket; somehow fragmented there in the red circled area. leaked a couple of ml of primary fluid while sitting. i bought some new ones from fortnine and found the right acorn cap nuts for my bike too. no more random nuts and vibrating. also wish Canada had older evo parts in stock. some of the obscure stuff was found in the states and i looked at all the parts from the catalogue/service manual. i hope everyone is enjoying their chilly fall preview.
It's a good thought about temperature sensitivity. I have thought about whether tire pressures were too low at the start of the ride, which then goes away as the tires warmed up.
It does seem like the problems seem more common at the start of rides. They would often go away as the ride progressed, BUT they would often then come back sometime later during the same ride. The first time I noticed the wobble was in the middle of the summer when it was a lot warmer. I hadn't rode it until I got the bike for good a few days ago. My sister had rode it maybe once in between and had been scared to death.
Tire pressures were fine. I put about 500km on it today - rode all the way to North Bay planning to check out Algonquin and see if the leaves were in full change (they are not). Without the top box, I only noticed wobble a few times at low speed, and these were very minor and no stress.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Hmm, nope.
All tires lose/gain about 0.5 psi for every 5C change in temp.
Like your wife says, size doesn’t matter.
Really? Weird. My F150 which lives outside all winter long, doesn't see even a fraction of the fluctuation any of my scooter tires have. And the scooters live in garages.
I say this as someone who has been riding all winter round, since 2007, and most winters I ride exclusively on small wheeled scooters, so it's something I've come to notice a lot.
Small tires equals small air volume equals small leaks quickly becoming big changes in pressure. Vespa tire is something like 25-50% of the volume of a car/truck tire. Same leak changes the pressure at two to four times the speed.
