Torque wrench, what size?

OverrRyde

OverrRyde

Well-known member
Gents, quick question, going to be purchasing a torque wrench for the bike. What would be the best size to get if primarily used for the bike? Ideally, maybe for the cars too?

1/2, 1/4 or 3/8? what is your recommended size?

cheers!
 
3/8 - you aren't going to find too many fasteners (or sockets) that you'll need to use that are much bigger or smaller than that can accomodate.
 
Do not trust that all 3/8" wrenches cover roughly the same torque range - they don't.

In fact, the drive size is mostly irrelevant, you need to look at the torque range. You can get a 3/8" that only goes to 200 in/lbs (16.6 ft/lbs) and another one that goes up to 250 ft/lbs (3,000 in/lbs).

You'll likely need a pair of wrenches to cover all the fasteners on your bike - one low-torque 1/4" or 3/8" for small stuff like valve cover bolts and a bigger 3/8" or 1/2" that goes above 100 ft/lbs for axle nuts.

I have a couple of each drive size and torque range.
 
1/2 in if you're going to be torque the wheels on cars
 
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One of each! The problem is not the size of the socket the problem is the range of torque.
... for a motorcycle the 1/4 and 3/8 drives will see the most use,
the small bolts are the ones that you are more likely to over-torque and break without the wrench.
 
Trials said:
One of each! The problem is not the size of the socket the problem is the range of torque.
... for a motorcycle the 1/4 and 3/8 drives will see the most use,
the small bolts are the ones that you are more likely to over-torque and break without the wrench.
Click to expand...
Ok, I figured this would be the best answer, get one of each. I kinda understood that the more important factor would be the range and not necessarily the size.

Thanks everyone!

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On the up side, you don't own tractors and excavators so you don't need the really big expensive one that twists up to 700 pounds ;)
 
Trials said:
On the up side, you don't own tractors and excavators so you don't need the really big expensive one that twists up to 700 pounds ;)
Click to expand...

true... i wonder sometimes why i have all (some) the tools i have when i mostly end up just using a phillips or flathead screw driver... :LOL:
 
If you are just getting one, I would look for one that went up to 120 ft-lbs or so. That should be good for most things from 20 ft-lbs and up. Honestly, if you are not taking apart super critical junctures like head from block, I normally just use feel on smaller fasteners. Higher torque is harder to guess at until you get really high (eg I weigh 200 lbs and I am standing on the ratchet one ft away from fastener so I am at 200 ft-lbs, click).
 
OverRyde said:
true... i wonder sometimes why i have all (some) the tools i have when i mostly end up just using a phillips or flathead screw driver... :LOL:
Click to expand...
I use my swiss army knife about 7 out of 10 times.
fwiw 10 mm socket is the torque socket I use the most,
and the rear wheel pinch bolt for adjusting chain slack on my MV is the most critical part that absolutely requires a torque wrench to adjust.
hqdefault.jpg

Over-tighten those two allen socket bolts and you will crush a very expensive rear wheel bearing.
 
Trials said:
I use my swiss army knife about 7 out of 10 times.
fwiw 10 mm socket is the torque socket I use the most,
and the rear wheel pinch bolt for adjusting chain slack on my MV is the most critical part that absolutely requires a torque wrench to adjust.
hqdefault.jpg

Over-tighten those two allen socket bolts and you will crush a very expensive rear wheel bearing.
Click to expand...
And that is 20 ft-lbs so a 120 lb capable wrench should be competen (although not ideal) for that one.
 
Trials said:
I use my swiss army knife about 7 out of 10 times.
fwiw 10 mm socket is the torque socket I use the most,
and the rear wheel pinch bolt for adjusting chain slack on my MV is the most critical part that absolutely requires a torque wrench to adjust.
hqdefault.jpg

Over-tighten those two allen socket bolts and you will crush a very expensive rear wheel bearing.
Click to expand...
Very much agreed with this. Most Ducs are the same. I like to use my old beam style torque wrench on them. No click. Just a visual indicator.
 
I agree that a 3/8" will get more use than a 1/2" (going by typical ranges) but any time the wheels come off you need the 1/2". And for a car, most of the fasteners that you are really worried about torquing are in the range of 1/2". So get two torque wrenches, and try not to get a set that has a range with a gap in the middle - very annoying
 
Trials said:
One of each! The problem is not the size of the socket the problem is the range of torque.
Click to expand...


Hence I own four torque wrenches.
One is 1/2" drive.
Two are 3/8"
One is 1/4"

Between the four wrenches I have any/all torque values covered.
 
The Snap on digital ones are awesome. But they cost huge coin, for basic DIY stuff Can Tire or Princess auto stuff does the job.
 
Look for the CT Maximum 3/8" and 1/2" on sale. I have both sizes and they cover everything I need for bike + car tire changes
 
ReSTored said:
Look for the CT Maximum 3/8" and 1/2" on sale. I have both sizes and they cover everything I need for bike + car tire changes
Click to expand...
Just make sure you check them occasionally. I had the 1/2" one go out of cal by a mile (set at 100 would give you 70). Now I check them yearly or before an important job. Socket clamped in vice, strap around handle at known distance with known weight, it should be just clicking and should unclick with a slight upward force.
 
I have two that get used 3/8 and 1/2" , there are a few old beam style laying around here and a new digital (cheap one) and I gotta say, I really like the click since I dont have to be seeing what I'm torquing , it just goes click. Reaching into some odd spots, it does the job.
 
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