2001 Derbi Predator 50 LC Scooter Project

GVH

GVH

Well-known member
OK I decided I didn't hate myself enough so I picked up another cheap project. Welcome to the $100 2001 Derbi Predator 50cc LC. Liquid cooled 49 cc 2 stroke. I was told by the owner it lost spark. He replaced the coil but still no spark. During the initial look over of the scooter it is a mess. A horrible wiring mess. Why would you want to tape or cover any of the splices you made just leave them exposed to short out. When I moved the harness to look at it I had an accessory wire from the positive cable literally burnt up when it shorted to the frame. The magic toxic smoke escaped. Possibly putting a 30 amp fuse in place of the 4 amp might not help. Fuse didn't blow. A 12 BS battery instead of the 4 BL it should have. Does have good compression 145 psi.

Having trouble finding the proper wiring diagram. This ones listed as predator derbi USA. My scooter has 3 Relay plugs not 2 as in the pic.
VIN# VTHPREDB61G183742

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Cool project. 4th pic is broken. What pipe is on it?

If it has a diagnostic port I have the scanner. As it's carbed, I'm not sure it has the port.
 
Can't seem to edit. to make my stupid more fun it is a Quebec vehicle and he couldn't find the paperwork. Will have it soon. At this point I can't find any CDI unit ??

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Sub'd


sent from my Purple LGG4 on the GTAM app
 
GreyGhost said:
If he paints it purple, will you buy it when he moves on to the next project?
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Well....there was someone, actually you iirc, that wanted to see if a 50cc would take my weight up Rutherford from 27....

sent from my Purple LGG4 on the GTAM app
 
This is the one you want. My Kymco Super9 LC 50cc scooter. Paid $250. New tires $120 installed, fixed stuck rear brake, charged battery and just recently did the water pump kit $75. Three years of my fat butt and always in the read line still runs great.

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So trying to figure out CDI/coils. This is what it probably looked like if I have the correct wiring diagram.

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GVH said:
So trying to figure out CDI/coils. This is what it probably looked like if I have the correct wiring diagram.

s-l1600.jpg
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So that one looks like it has power, ground, trigger and spark. Is yours still awol? What is on the end of the plug wire?
 
GreyGhost said:
So that one looks like it has power, ground, trigger and spark. Is yours still awol? What is on the end of the plug wire?
Click to expand...

Ya asked the seller. He lost / tossed it moving. He installed an aftermarket racing coil. Below. It has 2 leads Green and black in colour. Right now the Yellow/Green wire goes to green and branches off to a ground on the engine case. The Green/Black wire goes to the black. When I crank the motor over it shows no life. If I remove the Yellow/Green wire I get current on both leads. It flashes like it's working with the pulse or pickup from the coil.

After a few hours looking and fixing broken wires I have realized the diagram shows the ignition switch with a total of 4 wires. The switch installed is aftermarket. It has 3 leads and only 2 are used. Red from the battery and Red/Black power from the battery through the reg/rec. No yellow/green ground from the relay.

Off to dinner then off for Vacation Saturday back in a week. not sure if up North has wifi or not.

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The wiring sounds bastardized enough that it may be easier to make a new harness with the important connections yourself. Tie into the existing harness to pick up things like lights.

So this is magneto ignition or cdi? It looks like it may have been CDI and he put a coil on that requires a magneto. :/ Right now you have a coil that has either no signal or no power (assuming no magneto).
 
GreyGhost said:
The wiring sounds bastardized enough that it may be easier to make a new harness with the important connections yourself. Tie into the existing harness to pick up things like lights.

So this is magneto ignition or cdi? It looks like it may have been CDI and he put a coil on that requires a magneto. :/ Right now you have a coil that has either no signal or no power (assuming no magneto).
Click to expand...

It is supposed to be CDI/coil one piece unit. It should be a stator but might be an AC unit. I see lots of aftermarket units but no instructions listed (below) with them. I just want a what wire does what to make sure I can use it.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CDI-IGNITION...ash=item25bdc2fdb6:g:M5QAAOSwLnBXUe1j&vxp=mtr
 
GreyGhost said:
The wiring sounds bastardized enough that it may be easier to make a new harness with the important connections yourself. Tie into the existing harness to pick up things like lights.

So this is magneto ignition or cdi? It looks like it may have been CDI and he put a coil on that requires a magneto. :/ Right now you have a coil that has either no signal or no power (assuming no magneto).
Click to expand...

So I may have been wrong. 2 different parts websites list Magneto assembly.
 
GVH;2515642 After a few hours looking and fixing broken wires I have realized the diagram shows the ignition switch with a total of 4 wires. The switch installed is aftermarket. It has 3 leads and only 2 are used. Red from the battery and Red/Black power from the battery through the reg/rec. No yellow/green ground from the relay. [IMG said:
https://www.dhresource.com/260x260/f2/albu/g4/M00/C7/9D/rBVaEVcXbDyAAafGAAFO_ykoWb8093.jpg[/IMG]
Click to expand...

The OEM ignition switch likely had one of those extra wires to drive the parking lamp.
To hazard a total wild*ss guess on the fourth wire maybe was for an electric fork lock ?
 
The cdi/coil unit above seems to be what is missing. I see loads do aftermarket units promising to work but about 5 wires and no diagram. Super lousy internet up here. When I get back I have to go see another possible project. It would be long term and cost a bit.
 
Back to work Tomorrow. Need to fix the ignition switch wiring. Check grounds ...

On another note. 1971 BSA B25SS. I also picked up a 1962-5 BSA Sunbeam Scooter and 196?? Triumph Tina or T10 Scooter. Package deal all or none.

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OK I have officially decided not to continue this project. The owner ship never showed up. Not a big surprise and I just don't care anymore. Need it gone. If you want it for $100 it's you can have it or $50 and I keep the 12a-a battery currently installed in it. Assuming this is the proper coil and that is the only problem then another problems another $100 gets a sweet pit bike. I just have to many other projects I want to do more than this one.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Genuine-Derb...ash=item3f88913d8b:g:c9YAAOSwo4pYe87g&vxp=mtr
 
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