Everyone's Favourite Subject Leather Suits! | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Everyone's Favourite Subject Leather Suits!

A* summer jacket I love, zipper is toast 2 yrs. out. I'd pay good money to have it replaced. Can that be done cost effectively? It seams like a lot of work. I mean labour intensive.
On average, $40 but depends on lining/insulation/time frame needed.

John
 
Not sure I agree with the decrease in quality, however.
.

Hmm,, been fixing these suits for 25 years now. Was throwing myself down the road as well. I have worn junk and some really good stuff. I actually see what does not work. Then I have to try to figure how to fix it and make it better then factory. I have recorded damages to suits. So data acquisition from a CSBK rider for most of our tracks, The corners fall into 50 KPH 50-100KPH and over 100 KPH. Damages were graded as #1- scuffing maybe some top stitching ground away but suit is intact. #2 could be a hole with armour under it,but no visible skin. #3 failure,skin is visable.
So tell me why I have seen a huge increase in all suits with #3 damages at 50 KPH. 10 years ago you would get #1 damages at 50KPH. Well reasons are,,, more hard armour, more synthetic cheaper material,weaker thread,poor Kangaroo leather,thinner cow leather,,probably a few more,, but you get the idea.
Is this bad,, not allways,,, One we ride more or have more riding available. We have thinner leather for a better fit. We have more armour installed. some is just the times and making a suit that protects better,but last a shorter life. Also the UV and sweat affect this thinner leather much quicker then a heavier suit. I don't think Dainese would even argue when comparing a suit from 10 years ago to now. Gone,or they should be the days you wore a suit for 10 years. Most suits degrade now after 2-4 years depending on the individual and how much they ride and their relationship with the pavement.
 
Hi John,
Will get to some comments later... but that is very interesting stuff. You seriously really need to write it up and send it into one of the major magazines, I think this topic is something we are all interested in knowing more about.
 
Hi John,
Will get to some comments later... but that is very interesting stuff. You seriously really need to write it up and send it into one of the major magazines, I think this topic is something we are all interested in knowing more about.

Oh I have been wined and dinned but there is no gains for me personally if I was to release my data.The good companies would not thank me and the poor companies would hate my guts. No magazine will pay for the article. They just want it so they can let me step in front of the firing squad. I compiled the date just to help educate myself. Doing what I do,when I started was a pretty new field. So I had to educate and ensure I new what was what. But it is ever changing.
 
The new Dainese is a rip off. Look at the new Laguna Seca D1. They use less and less leather every new version. Now at the middle zipper its just fabric, not even leather,

First they drop leather at the collarbone, then the back of the legs, now the front torso....

Its like the whole suit is made from scraps., just batches of leather here and there.
 
I guess I could ask someone to help me out of my suit but that seems like a bit of a pain. I am not saying I can't get in an out of a suit, just looking for something that seemed a little easier.

John, I am not sure if you can or will answer this but if you were buying a suit for track days (maybe eventually some racing) assuming fit is perfect what suit would you buy? Reasonable budget not taking A* race replica or any of the other $3000 suits

So far what I have learned from all these leather suit threads is
1) Fit is paramount.
2) Stay away from Kangaroo
3) Look for large leather panels with strong stitching not on vulnerable areas.
4) Thicker leather is better.
6) Take John shopping with you :)

So far I am leaning towards the Racer5 suit however, I am smitten with these other suits as well;

Dainese Laguna Seca
Aero Evo (2016 you can look like spiderman my son would go crazy lol)
Alpinestars Atem
Pilot off the rack suit.
 
I guess I could ask someone to help me out of my suit but that seems like a bit of a pain. I am not saying I can't get in an out of a suit, just looking for something that seemed a little easier.

John, I am not sure if you can or will answer this but if you were buying a suit for track days (maybe eventually some racing) assuming fit is perfect what suit would you buy? Reasonable budget not taking A* race replica or any of the other $3000 suits

So far what I have learned from all these leather suit threads is
1) Fit is paramount.
2) Stay away from Kangaroo
3) Look for large leather panels with strong stitching not on vulnerable areas.
4) Thicker leather is better.
6) Take John shopping with you :)

So far I am leaning towards the Racer5 suit however, I am smitten with these other suits as well;

Dainese Laguna Seca
Aero Evo (2016 you can look like spiderman my son would go crazy lol)
Alpinestars Atem
Pilot off the rack suit.

Racer5 is alot of suit for the money. Look at the new Laguna Seca, just bunch of small batches of leather sewed together.

AStar Atem might be a good choice as well
 
Hmm,, been fixing these suits for 25 years now. Was throwing myself down the road as well. I have worn junk and some really good stuff. I actually see what does not work. Then I have to try to figure how to fix it and make it better then factory. I have recorded damages to suits. So data acquisition from a CSBK rider for most of our tracks, The corners fall into 50 KPH 50-100KPH and over 100 KPH. Damages were graded as #1- scuffing maybe some top stitching ground away but suit is intact. #2 could be a hole with armour under it,but no visible skin. #3 failure,skin is visable.
So tell me why I have seen a huge increase in all suits with #3 damages at 50 KPH. 10 years ago you would get #1 damages at 50KPH. Well reasons are,,, more hard armour, more synthetic cheaper material,weaker thread,poor Kangaroo leather,thinner cow leather,,probably a few more,, but you get the idea.
Is this bad,, not allways,,, One we ride more or have more riding available. We have thinner leather for a better fit. We have more armour installed. some is just the times and making a suit that protects better,but last a shorter life. Also the UV and sweat affect this thinner leather much quicker then a heavier suit. I don't think Dainese would even argue when comparing a suit from 10 years ago to now. Gone,or they should be the days you wore a suit for 10 years. Most suits degrade now after 2-4 years depending on the individual and how much they ride and their relationship with the pavement.

John, What are your thoughts on Taichi and Spidi ? I've heard their leathers are really premium.
 
The new Dainese is a rip off. Look at the new Laguna Seca D1. They use less and less leather every new version. Now at the middle zipper its just fabric, not even leather,

First they drop leather at the collarbone, then the back of the legs, now the front torso....

Its like the whole suit is made from scraps., just batches of leather here and there.

I would buy another dainese suit when it comes time to replace my current one (one full season old now).

You can't judge an entire brand from one suit.
 
I have watched many people do some strange acrobatics to pry themselves out of their leathers. I have dislocated both my shoulders in the past and am not excited about the prospect of attempting to do some shoulder gymnastics to get in and out of the suit which has me looking at W Frame suits.

OK, just in case there are people following the thread who aren't familiar - to get out of a one-zipper suit (down the middle). Unzip the front zipper down the middle all the way. Unzip one arm cuff. Have a buddy stand beside you and grab the sleeve at the cuff with both hands. Bend forward slightly and turn away from the buddy while s/he holds your cuff in place. You should easily be able to get your shoulder and most of your arm out of the suit. Then use the free arm to slide the suit off of the other shoulder and you're good to go.

Definitely this is infinitely easier with some kind of under-garment. I've used the PUG for years and love it, I've tried the VnM and it was like Teflon! Bring a pad and pencil to write down the new words that you'll hear invented by guys wearing t-shirts under their suits.
 
What's the problem with kangaroo? I just bought a Dainese Trickster.
The supply of kanagroo can not keep up with the demand. So inconsistency is huge. Cow is grown around the world in a captive
life style. Kangaroo is wild and hunted. So any and all of Kangaroo hide is used. Cow is cheaper and easier to cut around the imperfections.
What is the actual weight difference from cow to Roo? and is it worth it? Yes good quality Roo is lighter then cow,,,assuming you get that.
 
John, What are your thoughts on Taichi and Spidi ? I've heard their leathers are really premium.
Both good suits and if they fit great but I think the cost is greater then then any extra value. If the price is dropping then for sure. Taichi has been
known to grow their cows inside to prevent damage to the hides. But,,,,,,?
 
I would buy another dainese suit when it comes time to replace my current one (one full season old now).

You can't judge an entire brand from one suit.
100% there are good and weaker suits in every brand.
 
John, I am not sure if you can or will answer this but if you were buying a suit for track days (maybe eventually some racing) assuming fit is perfect what suit would you buy? .

Well, here is the deal. Some suits have a very slender build.Some suits like Taichi and Spidi have longer legs and arms,,some suits have a bigger mid section for us slightly bigger folk. You can not fixate on one suit. Just because,, it has to fit you. If the best suit in the world does not fit it will not protect as it should.
So try them on,,, wear them in the store for the time you would wear it on the track for a session. Sit on a bike,,,TAKE YOUR back and chest protectors. Don't,,please,,do not think of altering a new suit until you have tried them all. After that it may not even be alterable,,properly and safely.
I would most likely buy a Pilot suit. Why,, because I would want something unique and fitting. So custom, for me, works. I like the way the Pilot suits fit people and their measuring system is probably the most copied. They are not cheap and have been around. But they are also not out of the world price wise.
Secondly,,,probably Racer 5. lots of extra for the money.
Third, I like the one design of Dainese,not sure they neven make it still, it has a little too much venting for me but the fit is good. I just have trouble with the arms being a bit long.
But you see how there is things you like and dislike. Pay attention to those things. The absolute last thing anybody needs is to be turning laps and being bugged by something. Think about this for a second. You are coming into corner 8 at CTMP,,your forearm is too long and bunching up under your glove gauntlet,,you're, down shifting and realize your fingers are numb,,,,,,,,yes it happens! Or your knee slider just doesn't go up high enough [velcro should go to the middle line of the knee] so you are having a blast dragging your knee through Temptation or the Quarry at Bogie,,,, only to find out you now have a hole in your new suit cause the slider was half on the ground.
Take the time and fit the suit. Make the track enjoyable all round. You spend a lot of money and time for a small window of fun,,spend the time now.
Not every suit will fit everybody,,THAT is a fact.
 
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The supply of kanagroo can not keep up with the demand. So inconsistency is huge. Cow is grown around the world in a captive
life style. Kangaroo is wild and hunted. So any and all of Kangaroo hide is used. Cow is cheaper and easier to cut around the imperfections.
What is the actual weight difference from cow to Roo? and is it worth it? Yes good quality Roo is lighter then cow,,,assuming you get that.

Good to know, I compared my Laguna Seca Pro to the Trickster and the latter is noticeably lighter. Aside from weight reduction, isn't kangaroo leather more abrasion resistant than cowhide? In theory, it should hold up the same way a cowhide suit would. How can you tell if you have a good or bad kangaroo suit?
 

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