I think it's a 5 lb difference between the two.
Worth upgrading from a 636 to a 750?
- Thread starter veno78
- Start date
sonny is that you? lol
油井緋色;2135714 said:
Yeah true, I spoke to a rep at GP and he said there was a customer with a 675R who was waiting a month for a part to come in. Also said the Japanese equivalent part would have come in within a week.
I don't think they've ever released a stock white 636?
Some guys have vinyl wrapped their 636 white though. Looks sexy af.
Tires are PP2ct, 32F 34R. When you say set the suspension, do you mean the sag?
Ya, was debating the 1000s but everyone says they're too heavy/not as fun in the corners. I'm more of a corner guy than straight line speed.
:lmao:
EaZ8
Well-known member
I don't think they've ever released a stock white 636?
Some guys have vinyl wrapped their 636 white though. Looks sexy af.
the newer 636 bore on the ZX6r's come in white black and green. i believe its 2011 they brought back the 636.
2013.
New ... or worn flat in the center ... or beat to crap ... or worn unevenly?
And the ride height. Less importantly, spring rates, compression and rebound damping settings, etc.
Dresden
Well-known member
+1 I found the 750 to be the most fun. A definite difference from the 600's. For example, you don't need to drop a gear to get moving on the highway.
You're getting an upgrade, make it a significant one...
I'd get a 1000, but if it's absolutely unattainable, the 750 is significantly more powerful than a 636 or any 600. Noticeable improvement.
As for handling, maybe you just need to set the bike up. A few mm in geometry change makes for huge handling differences, just FYI.
Tires were bought new from Petes, roughly 10k on them, worn evenly from what I see, not a flat center.
Ride height too? How tall of a rider is the stock height set for?
Can any mechanic do those things or would I have to go to a specialized shop?
Yeah exactly, that's a another reason why I'd like a more powerful bike, the constant need to downshift to pass, esp on country roads. Gets annoying after a long day of riding.
Haven't ridden a 1000 yet but everyone seems to say they're much more difficult to corner. Can you elaborate on the geometry change? I'm guessing it's what Brian listed?
1000s handle just fine. Suspension setup and tire choices impact handling 10 times more than whatever inherent difference one bike has over another. There's very little difference between a 600 and a 1000 in the handling department. A current CBR 600RR, for example, weighs only 30lbs less than its big brother 1000RR. The rest is all suspension setup, geometry, and tires.
You can change the behaviour of the bike significantly by lowering or raising the front and rear suspension. If you prefer a twitchy bike that turns in quickly, you can lower the front and/or raise the rear. On many bikes you can also take a link out of the chain and push the rear wheel further forward if there is enough adjustment; this has the same effect on turn-in and overall stability. Shorter wheelbase = twitchier bike.
Lastly, changing the position of the handlebars or swapping them out entirely will make a huge difference in leverage you have over the front wheel. Another massive change in how the bike behaves.
You can change the behaviour of the bike significantly by lowering or raising the front and rear suspension. If you prefer a twitchy bike that turns in quickly, you can lower the front and/or raise the rear. On many bikes you can also take a link out of the chain and push the rear wheel further forward if there is enough adjustment; this has the same effect on turn-in and overall stability. Shorter wheelbase = twitchier bike.
Lastly, changing the position of the handlebars or swapping them out entirely will make a huge difference in leverage you have over the front wheel. Another massive change in how the bike behaves.
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10,000 km of Ontario roads on Pilot Power 2CTs means they are shot. Even if they still have legal tread depth, they will be worn unevenly. Try measuring the tread depths in the center and at the edges and at a couple of spots in between. I am quite sure that this is underlying your complaint about the handling feeling heavy. With that much mileage, they've also been heat-cycled to death. Get new tires!
By "ride height" I am not just talking about whether you can stand at a stop flat-footed or tippytoes. Changing the front and rear ride heights changes the steering head angle and the trail, and this changes the steering feel. Changing both ride heights together changes the swing-arm pivot height and that changes grip coming out of corners. This is not simple!
I would suggest that once this snow goes away, you take the bike to a competent shop that knows sport bikes and get the complete package deal: new tires front and rear together with a baseline suspension setup. Shops in the Toronto area that I have experience with and who can set you up with all that are: Pro 6 Cycle, Z1 Cycletech, and Rider's Choice. Don't cheap out.
I guarantee that after you have this done, it will feel like a new bike.
By "ride height" I am not just talking about whether you can stand at a stop flat-footed or tippytoes. Changing the front and rear ride heights changes the steering head angle and the trail, and this changes the steering feel. Changing both ride heights together changes the swing-arm pivot height and that changes grip coming out of corners. This is not simple!
I would suggest that once this snow goes away, you take the bike to a competent shop that knows sport bikes and get the complete package deal: new tires front and rear together with a baseline suspension setup. Shops in the Toronto area that I have experience with and who can set you up with all that are: Pro 6 Cycle, Z1 Cycletech, and Rider's Choice. Don't cheap out.
I guarantee that after you have this done, it will feel like a new bike.
Damn, lol here I am fiddling with my steering damper thinking that's all there is to it.
never knew suspension tuning would make that much of a difference, lol no one ever talks about it.
Thanks guys
Brian - hard to see with the flash but the the centre has 2mm of tread and the outer edge (chicken strip) is 3mm.
If you say they're shot with a decent amount of tread left then how does one measure/know when a tire is 'shot'?
never knew suspension tuning would make that much of a difference, lol no one ever talks about it.
Thanks guys
Brian - hard to see with the flash but the the centre has 2mm of tread and the outer edge (chicken strip) is 3mm.
If you say they're shot with a decent amount of tread left then how does one measure/know when a tire is 'shot'?
By feel, or by looking at it. A tire can be squared off but still have decent tread depth. Just look at it directly from behind and see if it's still round, or if the middle is squared off. If it's squared, it will have an odd impact on handling... basically it makes initial turn-in a little harder, but then you slide over the edge and the bike feels like it tips in suddenly or with great ease. Not confidence inspiring, that's for sure.
160hp 600........:lmao: Tell us more!
Unless it's boosted, has nitrous, or it was dyno'd on a dreamometer2000 then it's possible.
NM he's banned. I'm always late to the party.
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silverbullet132
Well-known member
I think I remember the ad, it had nitro and a built engine.
S
SlayerofSouls
Guest
You missed the point of the OP. Will the recreational rider benefit from a 1000cc bike on the street? If you're just looking to brag about your "accomplishments" perhaps post your own thread.
It can be moto 2 built and it's not making 160hp.
Nitrous on a 600 to make it as fast as a 1000, he must of had money burning a hole in his pocket.
Roomie
Banned
160 hp 600's. I've now read it all on here
