Maintenance: How do you do yours?

[油井緋色]

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This is a question that has been bothering me since I started riding last year.

When I first got the bike, I wanted to follow the owners manual. However, I was too scared to do anything myself so I brought it to Rosey Toes. They ended up skipping a bunch of things that the manual said and told me not to worry about it. This continued for a year now.

Nothing's wrong with my bike now, except yesterday I attempted to the tighten the chain and ****ed up my alignment a bit. Then I started looking through the manual again and noticed all these things I SHOULD have done (air filter, valve checks, tightening bolts).

So, how do you guys do it? Would it be a good idea for me to bring my bike to somewhere more expensive and make them check the entire thing over? Perhaps it's just paranoia...because nothing's wrong w/ the bike.

 

[ViperZ]

There is a table in your service manual, which says WHEN to check or change certain things - oil/filter, air filter, valves, spark plugs, brake pads, always check your nuts and bolts, chain (clean, lube, tighten), tire wear. What did Rosey Toes skip? Ted is a good mechanic, so if he doesn't want you to spend money or something, he is most likely correct. If you bring your bike to a 'more expensive' place, they'll most likely charge you more and skip the same things, or will 'fix' something that doesn't need fixing. Also, learn to do all basic stuff yourself. You will save tons of money and will know for sure that the stuff has been changed.

 

[油井緋色]

There is a table in your service manual, which says WHEN to check or change certain things - oil/filter, air filter, valves, spark plugs, brake pads, always check your nuts and bolts, chain (clean, lube, tighten), tire wear. What did Rosey Toes skip? Ted is a good mechanic, so if he doesn't want you to spend money or something, he is most likely correct. If you bring your bike to a 'more expensive' place, they'll most likely charge you more and skip the same things, or will 'fix' something that doesn't need fixing. Also, learn to do all basic stuff yourself. You will save tons of money and will know for sure that the stuff has been changed.

Well, there was a 12,000 service I wasn't sure if I needed or not prior to buying the bike (got it at 12,878km). And because I was a complete idiot back then, I didn't ask the previous owner if they did the maintenance or not.

The main things that are scaring me are:
valve checks - I don't know if this has been done or not on
tightening bolts - which bolts do I tighten?
lubricating pivot points - kickstand, center stand, no clue what grease to buy or how I am supposed to apply it...but I am assuming like paint? lol
spark plugs - cannot access spark plugs without taking off fairings, never took off fairings before

I managed to change the clutch cable and brake pads last year (w/ brake fluid obviously). Probably have to change the front tire soon which I definitely won't do myself.

 

[ViperZ]

Well, there was a 12,000 service I wasn't sure if I needed or not prior to buying the bike (got it at 12,878km). And because I was a complete idiot back then, I didn't ask the previous owner if they did the maintenance or not.

The main things that are scaring me are:
valve checks - I don't know if this has been done or not on
tightening bolts - which bolts do I tighten?
lubricating pivot points - kickstand, center stand, no clue what grease to buy or how I am supposed to apply it...but I am assuming like paint? lol
spark plugs - cannot access spark plugs without taking off fairings, never took off fairings before

I managed to change the clutch cable and brake pads last year (w/ brake fluid obviously). Probably have to change the front tire soon which I definitely won't do myself.

- Valve adustment is the hardest one, but if it's just a check, invest in the service manual, it will tell you exactly what to do.
- Tightening bolts - ALL the bolts that you can see. Make it into a habit to check most important nuts and bolts every few rides.
- Lubricating - at least my old Suzuki manual and current Honda SERVICE manual, both had recommendations for lubes for different points.
- Spark plugs - don't know what bike you have - you do need proper spark plug wrench, and if you don't know what you're doing, a torque wrench (if you can fit it in there, but spark plug installation instructions are printed even on spark plug boxes - tighten by hand, then 1/2 turn with wrench). Changing spark plugs on in-line 4 is a b*tch. Why would you change spark plugs at 12K??

 

[matthew]

So, how do you guys do it? Would it be a good idea for me to bring my bike to somewhere more expensive and make them check the entire thing over? Perhaps it's just paranoia...because nothing's wrong w/ the bike.

Buy a large (200+ piece) socket set from Canadian Tire, buy front and rear stands, buy the repair manual and do it all yourself.

 

[murf]

- Valve adustment is the hardest one, but if it's just a check, invest in the service manual, it will tell you exactly what to do.
- Tightening bolts - ALL the bolts that you can see. Make it into a habit to check most important nuts and bolts every few rides.
- Lubricating - at least my old Suzuki manual and current Honda SERVICE manual, both had recommendations for lubes for different points.
- Spark plugs - don't know what bike you have - you do need proper spark plug wrench, and if you don't know what you're doing, a torque wrench (if you can fit it in there, but spark plug installation instructions are printed even on spark plug boxes - tighten by hand, then 1/2 turn with wrench). Changing spark plugs on in-line 4 is a b*tch. Why would you change spark plugs at 12K??

He is not comfortable taking fairings off, he won't be comfortable checking valves.

 

[FriendlyFoe]

What bike are you riding? That matters, some bikes are very sensitive to needing valves checked at the service intervals, a ninja 250 not so much. You dont sound like you have a lot of experience turning wrenches, so pulling the tank, air box, valve cover and timing cover to do an inspection might seem really daunting, but if you have a friend with some mechanical skills to help it's not that bad. At that point depending on the bike if the valve clearance (this is clearance to the camshaft, the rod that physically pushes down on the valves to push them down/open) is out of spec you may need to pull the cams, or if it's a ninja 250 it's much simpler and can be done without pulling cams.

Most of that is just so you understand whats involved. Depending on the bike you may or may not need a torque wrench for doing valves, so what bike is it and whats the mileage.

 

[tricky]

it's a GS500F, right? I was daunted the first time I had to do maintenance on mine (the naked version, so I have it easier) but it's not hard. Buy a good socket set and get the Haynes or Clymers manual.. it'll show you everything. Spark plugs come right out using the bike's toolkit. The tank comes off with 2 bolts, that'll give you access to the air filter. The Haynes manual will walk you through which bolts to check over at what intervals.

I haven't done a valve clearance check yet, but I think I'm going to the shop for that one. I could do it (in theory) but it'd be too much of a hassle I think

 

[油井緋色]

Currently riding a 2006 GS500F. Approaching 22,000 on mileage.

And yeah I'm definitely not comfortable taking off the fairings. I guess I will go make a note on all the bolts later.

I have most (if not all) of the required tools already and then some; just not sure what to do with them lol

 

[matthew]

If you don't know how to take the fairings off (and it doesn't seem you want to learn, given the fact that you have tools) then be prepared to pay A LOT of money for maintenance. Also, by taking your bike to some place that charges a larger hourly rate than Ted, there's no guarantee that they'll check everything by the book.

 

[Fiery254]

http://www.humber.ca/motorcycle/course/motorcycle-maintenance-basic


At $160 it's about the same as 2 hours labour at most shops.

After 1 oil change and 1 brake pad change you'll be ahead of the game and you've gained vaulable confidence building experience.

I am in no way affiliated with Humber or anything like that. It just screams common sense for soemone in your boat.

 

[Flywheel]

Currently riding a 2006 GS500F. Approaching 22,000 on mileage.

And yeah I'm definitely not comfortable taking off the fairings. I guess I will go make a note on all the bolts later.

I have most (if not all) of the required tools already and then some; just not sure what to do with them lol

You start by stripping screws, rounding bolts, skinning knuckles and cracking plastic. Throw in a bunch of swearing and tool dropping (or throwing, depending your success).

Then you stop, re-read the manual, scour the internet and try again. You have to start somewhere and it WILL be frustrating at times. Even if a PO or mechanic hasn't damaged something, you'll be fighting the ghosts of the engineers, assemblers, accountants--and your clumsiness.

Fortunately, even a valve check is fairly simple on the gs500 (with video: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2015554469142545363). As I'll repeat until the end of time, join the GSTwins board. They can answer just about any question you have.

Good luck. Learning to do your own maintenance, even inexpertly, can be as satisfying as riding. I think I learned more by botching things up than by doing things right the first time anyway.

 

[油井緋色]

You start by stripping screws, rounding bolts, skinning knuckles and cracking plastic. Throw in a bunch of swearing and tool dropping (or throwing, depending your success).

Then you stop, re-read the manual, scour the internet and try again. You have to start somewhere and it WILL be frustrating at times. Even if a PO or mechanic hasn't damaged something, you'll be fighting the ghosts of the engineers, assemblers, accountants--and your clumsiness.

Fortunately, even a valve check is fairly simple on the gs500 (with video: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2015554469142545363). As I'll repeat until the end of time, join the GSTwins board. They can answer just about any question you have.

Good luck. Learning to do your own maintenance, even inexpertly, can be as satisfying as riding. I think I learned more by botching things up than by doing things right the first time anyway.

I actually ****ed things up REALLY badly yesterday.

First time I tried adjusting the chain tension myself. Someone at YorkU had told me my chain was nearly touching my center stand...and it indeed was.

Went home, got the cotter pin off, loosened the bolt w/ an impact hammer (not even sure if I should have used that since its power is insane). Then when I was adjusting the tension...I forgot which way to turn it. Instead of doing the right thing, I just started turning them all over the place. The result was an overtightened chain. Unenlightening was living hell. By the time I wanted to go back to tightening, it was dark and the damn flies were all over me.

I managed to fix it this morning, but the rear wheel's probably misaligned as I'm slightly (very slightly) turning right in order to keep straight. But....the bike isn't wobbling at 160km/h or more so that means the chain should be okay? <_<

 

[matthew]

lefty loosey righty tighty

seriously, go to canadian tire and buy a socket set when they're on sale. buy a repair manual.

no one started out knowing how to wrench on their motorcycle, everyone learns through trial and error. using an impact wrench (i hope you didnt use a hammer) to loosen your rear axle bolt is over kill.

get the socket set, get a small length of pipe if you need extra leverage, get some sort of penetrating fluid and be patient and RTFM

buy this

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...l+Grade+Black+Chrome+Socket+Set.jsp?locale=en

and this

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...ercraft+Screwdriver+Set,+100-Pc.jsp?locale=en

and buy an allan key set when they go on sale

 

[murf]

I actually ****ed things up REALLY badly yesterday.

First time I tried adjusting the chain tension myself. Someone at YorkU had told me my chain was nearly touching my center stand...and it indeed was.

Went home, got the cotter pin off, loosened the bolt w/ an impact hammer (not even sure if I should have used that since its power is insane). Then when I was adjusting the tension...I forgot which way to turn it. Instead of doing the right thing, I just started turning them all over the place. The result was an overtightened chain. Unenlightening was living hell. By the time I wanted to go back to tightening, it was dark and the damn flies were all over me.

I managed to fix it this morning, but the rear wheel's probably misaligned as I'm slightly (very slightly) turning right in order to keep straight. But....the bike isn't wobbling at 160km/h or more so that means the chain should be okay? <_<

I think you need someone to align your wheel pronto.

 

[FriendlyFoe]

Yeah put the air tools away and forget about them. If you dont have a big enough socket to get the axel nut off use an adjustable (also called crescent) wrench to do the trick.

Where vaguely do you live? I'm sure if someone is passing by through the area they would take 5 minutes out of their day to make sure you havent done anything with the chain/rear wheel thats going to be hazardous to your well being.

 

[油井緋色]

9th Line and 407.

It's all good though. The same guy that warned me about my chain fixed it...I think.

Gonna look into that Canadian tire stuff.

EDIT: Holy **** I am gonna go buy that socket set.

Would a torque wrench be recommended?

 

[Sabex]

I kinda just jumped right into my GS500F to work on it. So far I've only taken it to a shop to change tires.
One thing is to make sure you have ALL the right tools, I've had to macgyver a few tools here and there...

It's a little scary at first, but once you do something for the first time (like take off the fairings, or gas tank, or other stuff) it'll be easier (and much faster) the next time.

 

[FriendlyFoe]

9th Line and 407.

It's all good though. The same guy that warned me about my chain fixed it...I think.

Gonna look into that Canadian tire stuff.

EDIT: Holy **** I am gonna go buy that socket set.

Would a torque wrench be recommended?

Depends what you're working on. For things like tightening the axel bolt, or re-installing caliper bolts, sprocket nuts etc using a torque wrench would be a good idea, but for little things like gas tank bolts and seat bolts its really not necessary. After a while you kind of get a feel for how tight most things should be, but that took me a good couple years of working on my own cars and stripping/cross threading bolts to figure out. For engine stuff a torque wrench is often mandatory.

 

[Flywheel]

I actually ****ed things up REALLY badly yesterday.

First time I tried adjusting the chain tension myself. Someone at YorkU had told me my chain was nearly touching my center stand...and it indeed was.

Went home, got the cotter pin off, loosened the bolt w/ an impact hammer (not even sure if I should have used that since its power is insane). Then when I was adjusting the tension...I forgot which way to turn it. Instead of doing the right thing, I just started turning them all over the place. The result was an overtightened chain. Unenlightening was living hell. By the time I wanted to go back to tightening, it was dark and the damn flies were all over me.

I managed to fix it this morning, but the rear wheel's probably misaligned as I'm slightly (very slightly) turning right in order to keep straight. But....the bike isn't wobbling at 160km/h or more so that means the chain should be okay? <_<

To quote Obi-Wan Kenobi: "You have taken your first step into a larger world." If you screw up, do some more research or ask for help. We've all been there. For the love of god slow down, especially with a misaligned rear wheel. Take the bus instead and read about reinstalling rear wheels. Motorcycles maintenance is not impervious to thinking.

Impact wrenches were designed for factories and garages and not strictly necessary with bikes (except for some specialized tasks, like fork dis-assembly). Struggling with fasteners is slow, so the power tool allows mechanics to work faster. Never use them to tighten anything unless you spring for specialized torque sticks/extensions. A waste of money for one bike really.

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