Lost with wiring (power outlet mod for CBR 125)

[turbodish]

Holy Chit. All you are missing is a Flux Capacitor...

Did someone mention the word overkill already?

Maybe it should have been put forward as OVERKILL instead.

I find the 140 watt inverter recommendation quite funny coming from someone who expressed a fear of bike wiring melting. That inverter at full load would suck out over half the power capacity that the bike's charging circuit is capable of producing.

And who uses glass fuses any more? The smart move would be to use the same fuse type that is already in use on the bike, and that's the plastic-housing blade fuses.

 

[mike.from.canmore]

And who uses glass fuses any more? The smart move would be to use the same fuse type that is already in use on the bike, and that's the plastic-housing blade fuses.

I thought the exact same thing.

 

[ItIsWhatItIs]

You do realize that you are comparing 2 completely different products there right?

1 is a mountable 12v accessory outlet.
the one you are suggesting is a single to dual accessory outlet y-splitter(this would assume there is already an existing outlet somewhere to split into two).


You are off on some kind of tangent - talking about AC and inverters and toasters and such.

You know what wire cutters and solder is? You would cut off the plug and solder the wires to the relay wires. Is that clear enough?

 

[ItIsWhatItIs]

Did someone mention the word overkill already?

Maybe it should have been put forward as OVERKILL instead.

I find the 140 watt inverter recommendation quite funny coming from someone who expressed a fear of bike wiring melting.

That is why you use a relay (to protect the bike) and fuse to limit your draw.

Did someone mention the word overkill already?
That inverter at full load would suck out over half the power capacity that the bike's charging circuit is capable of producing.

That inverter has 5 usb ports. You own a GPS and a phone? They charge by ups.

And who uses glass fuses any more? The smart move would be to use the same fuse type that is already in use on the bike, and that's the plastic-housing blade fuses.

Why is that smart? If he blows the fuse it will not effect the function of the bike whatsoever. Glass fuses are quite common. It doesn't matter pick any type of fuse as long as it limits the current.

Not to worry I will give the op opportunity to take in what I have posted. I know how this forum rolls, so after a very short time I am going to edit and delete each and every post I made in this thread. Accept or Reject what I post that's the op's and anyones elses prerogative.

tick tock goes the clock :thumbup:

 

[Lightcycle]

That inverter has 5 usb ports. You own a GPS and a phone? They charge by ups.

An inverter by definition changes the power from DC to AC. Most devices, including the aforementioned GPS and phone, will power and recharge by DC, and they have tons of DC interfaces from cigarette lighter, SAE, Powerlet, etc. You don't need an inverter.

That DC-> AC inverter is very inefficient if you use the GPS/phone 120VAC plug, because it just converts back to DC within the accessory's power adapter anyway.

And if you're just using the 5V USB port, then just use this:

I know how this forum rolls, so after a very short time I am going to edit and delete each and every post I made in this thread.

No idea what you were referring to till I read your history. Maybe if you actually knew what you were talking about you wouldn't have to delete your posts.

 

[ItIsWhatItIs]

An inverter by definition changes the power from DC to AC. Most devices, including the aforementioned GPS and phone, will power and recharge by DC, and they have tons of DC interfaces from cigarette lighter, SAE, Powerlet, etc. You don't need an inverter.

That DC-> AC inverter is very inefficient if you use the GPS/phone 120VAC plug, because it just converts back to DC within the accessory's power adapter anyway.

And if you're just using the 5V USB port, then just use this:

No idea what you were referring to till I read your history. Maybe if you actually knew what you were talking about you wouldn't have to delete your posts.

Some people just have to be right and know it all. I suggest the op go to the insurance category to get a browbeating for moding his bike. If the mod takes out his tail light and or brake light and there is accident State Farm will decline his insurance. Use it as a signal only and keep the circuit separate and you won't have to worry about the insurance nazis. Of course some people have to be always right. As for your remark, that's how this forum rolls, so good of you to tow the line.

 

[TheDirty]

http://www.thesource.ca/estore/prod...&category=DC+AdaptorsandPlugs&product=2701535

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...1470 Certified+12V+Power+Outlet.jsp?locale=en


The adapter linked by the op is $15 bucks. The one linked here from the source is $7 + $6 dollars for the relay from princess auto. A fuse holder maybe $2. Bob's your uncle for $15 dollars.

How is this an answer to my inverter question? Why are inverters even mentioned? WTF is going on here?

Crazy thread is crazy.

 

[turbodish]

If the mod takes out his tail light and or brake light and there is accident State Farm will decline his insurance.

No, State Farm will not decline insurance even if that were to happen.

By the way, on the Honda CBR125R, the running light filament is on a different fused circuit than the brake light filament and turn signals. It would take some doing to kill all the lights even if the OP was to plug your referenced toaster into the 140 watt inverter you were recommending as a power source for his GPS.

 

[Lightcycle]

Why are inverters and toasters even mentioned? WTF is going on here?

fixed.

 

[ItIsWhatItIs]

How is this an answer to my inverter question? Why are inverters even mentioned? WTF is going on here?

Crazy thread is crazy.

The op wants to charge his cell phone. My cell phone charges by plugging into an AC outlet. The GPS charges by USB. It makes zero sense to buy a charging adapter so you can plug into vehicle dc outlet when you can use an inverter to plug into the DC outlet. For $25 the op will be able to charge his cellphone and power his GPS with an independent circuit to his bike wiring. If anyone believes the wiring in the bike will stand up to using it to supply power to accessories than do it.

 

[sircastic]

fixed.

It's for the toaster oven - to cook the chicken strips.

 

[ItIsWhatItIs]

No, State Farm will not decline insurance even if that were to happen.

By the way, on the Honda CBR125R, the running light filament is on a different fused circuit than the brake light filament and turn signals. It would take some doing to kill all the lights even if the OP was to plug your referenced toaster into the 140 watt inverter you were recommending as a power source for his GPS.

Wrong, The brake and tail light are the same bulb. According to the manual brake bulb 21w, tail 5w. At most the wiring may handle 2 Amps And you want to power a GPS sucking 1 Amp. Start a thread in the insurance category saying you want to power accessories using the brake/tail light circuit and I guarantee you will get flak and threats of your insurance being voided.

 

[turbodish]

Wrong, The brake and tail light are the same bulb. According to the manual brake bulb 21w, tail 5w. At most the wiring may handle 2 Amps And you want to power a GPS sucking 1 Amp. Start a thread in the insurance category saying you want to power accessories using the brake/tail light circuit and I guarantee you will get flak and threats of your insurance being voided.

Same bulb, but that bulb has two filaments, and each filament is on a different circuit from the other.
Fuse 1 - 30 A - Main fuse
Fuse 2 - 10 A - Starter, turn signals, instruments, brake light
Fuse 3 - 10 A - Cooling fan
Fuse 4 - 10 A - Lighting (other than that covered above), horn

That's the fuse documentation. The wiring diagram for the CRB125R backs up the fuse documentation. The running light filament and brake light filament are in the same bulb, but the bike's wiring schematics clearly show that each filament is wired into a separate fused circuit separate from the other filament.

You can blow your running light fuse and the brake light and turn signals will still work, and vice versa. This by the way is a bit of a safety feature.

Your claim about voiding insurance if you tap accessory power from a lighting circuit is ridiculous nonsense. It also overlooks the fact that tapping power for a low-draw accessory like a GPS is electrically no different than tapping power for a low-draw component like a relay.

 

[ItIsWhatItIs]

http://www.super-b.com/products/super-B-2600.html

super B 2600 lithium motorcycle battery

Technical specifications

Nominal capacity and voltage 2600 mAh, 13.2 V
EqPb (Equals lead acid battery) 5 to 7Ah
Recommended standard charge method4 A to 14.4 CCCV, 45 min
Recommended fast charge current 10A to 14.4 CCCV, 15 min
Maximum continuous discharge 50A
Pulse discharge 150A
Recommended charge and cut-off V at 25°C 14.4V to 8V
Recommended charge and cut-off V below 0°C15.2V to 2V
Operating temperature range-22°F to +140°F / -30°C to +60°C
Storage temperature range-58°F to +140°F / -50°C to +60°C
Battery weight1.05 lb / 475 grams;
Dimensions4.49 inch, 3.2 inch, 1.38 inch (WxHxD) 114mm x 81.25mm x 35mm (WxHxD)

Adding accessories, it's probably a good idea to think about upgrading the battery. The cbr125 main fuse is 30A. This battery is good for 50A. This battery would enable the use of heated gloves, vest, and other accessories.

 

[ItIsWhatItIs]

Same bulb, but that bulb has two filaments, and each filament is on a different circuit from the other.
Fuse 1 - 30 A - Main fuse
Fuse 2 - 10 A - Starter, turn signals, instruments, brake light
Fuse 3 - 10 A - Cooling fan
Fuse 4 - 10 A - Lighting (other than that covered above), horn

That's the fuse documentation. The wiring diagram for the CRB125R backs up the fuse documentation. The running light filament and brake light filament are in the same bulb, but the bike's wiring schematics clearly show that each filament is wired into a separate fused circuit separate from the other filament.

You can blow your running light fuse and the brake light and turn signals will still work, and vice versa. This by the way is a bit of a safety feature.

Your claim about voiding insurance if you tap accessory power from a lighting circuit is ridiculous nonsense. It also overlooks the fact that tapping power for a low-draw accessory like a GPS is electrically no different than tapping power for a low-draw component like a relay.

Tapping into the brake/tail light to supply power to a GPS drawing 1 amp is a bad bad bad... Idea. The Brake light is 21w. The wiring will handle maybe 2 Amps. If you applied the brake and had the GPS running = melted wiring.

 

[Lightcycle]

The op wants to charge his cell phone. My cell phone charges by plugging into an AC outlet. The GPS charges by USB. It makes zero sense to buy a charging adapter so you can plug into vehicle dc outlet when you can use an inverter to plug into the DC outlet. For $25 the op will be able to charge his cellphone and power his GPS with an independent circuit to his bike wiring. If anyone believes the wiring in the bike will stand up to using it to supply power to accessories than do it.

Do you have any idea how ridiculous all that crap would look plugged into a motorcycle?

Here let me show you. Try stuffing all this down your jacket as you ride:

I thought you'd get a kick out of the Y-Adapter! Or you could just plug in a DC cable:

 

[TheDirty]

The op wants to charge his cell phone. My cell phone charges by plugging into an AC outlet. The GPS charges by USB. It makes zero sense to buy a charging adapter so you can plug into vehicle dc outlet when you can use an inverter to plug into the DC outlet. For $25 the op will be able to charge his cellphone and power his GPS with an independent circuit to his bike wiring. If anyone believes the wiring in the bike will stand up to using it to supply power to accessories than do it.

Using an inverter for an AC outlet to plug in a DC converter to finally charge a cell phone is crazy talk. It's extremely inefficient in power draw, space, weight, and cost.

Why do you keep talking about money like he's somehow saving money with an inverter? A vehicle USB accessory port is $2. A USB charging cable for cell phones, if not already supplied with the cell phone is about $5.

There is no benefit to using an inverter in this case, escept for maybe the toaster thing.

 

[turbodish]

Tapping into the brake/tail light to supply power to a GPS drawing 1 amp is a bad bad bad... Idea. The Brake light is 21w. The wiring will handle maybe 2 Amps. If you applied the brake and had the GPS running = melted wiring.

He's not tapping into the brakelight circuit at all.

He would be tapping into the running light circuit. The running light filament consumes about 5 watts, less than 1/2 amp. The wire going to the running light filament is plenty heavy enough to handle several times that amount of current, and the circuit it's on is fused for 10 amps with nowhere near that load actually required by the electrical loads on that circuit.

Your scare about melted wiring is more ridiculous nonsense coming from someone who has no clue about the wiring circuits and current capacity of the circuits on that bike.

 

[BioRouge]

i think this OP will just use the built in GPS battery and if it dies, there's always my blackberry to help me find my way home

I'm not nearly electronics savy to start soldering any of my wires, it was to be a DIY - but I'm realizing I may be way over my head in this one.
Appreciate everyones helps and thoughts.. thank you very much

 

[ItIsWhatItIs]

Does an AC outlet in your house care what you plug into it? What the op plugs into the DC outlet will be what he plugs into it. The discussion is how the dc outlet is supplying power. I am saying use a 6 dollar relay and draw the power directly from the battery to power the dc outlet. Use the tail light to power the relay coil. Supplying power to a dc outlet from the tail light circuit is asking for problems.