Working with derlin | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Working with derlin

Wingboy said:
Find a friend with access to a lathe.
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I have a 6" lathe, works awesome, with a sharp tool piece you can shave elastomeric bearing plastic off in one long continuous shaving to leave a nice smooth surface, takes minutes to put any shape you want on it, cuts very quickly and you can't even cut yourself on the shavings (y)


Belt sander will work and you will make a messy job of it, possibly hurt yourself in the process.

Band saw cuts plastic like butter too. (frozen butter)
 
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Trials said:
I have a 6" lathe, works awesome, with a sharp tool piece you can shave elastomeric bearing plastic off in one long continuous shaving to leave a nice smooth surface, takes minutes to put any shape you want on it, cuts very quickly and you can't even cut yourself on the shavings (y)


Belt sander will work and you will make a messy job of it, possibly hurt yourself in the process.

Band saw cuts plastic like butter too. (frozen butter)
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Belt sander with the piece spinning in a drill might work. Surface finish will probably suck though.
 
GreyGhost said:
Belt sander with the piece spinning in a drill might work. Surface finish will probably suck though.
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Might work. But a side load on the chuck will destroy it quickly.
 
moarmoto said:
Krator MT219-048 Black Slider... Krator MT219-048 Black Slider (Suzuki SV650 / SV1000 / DL650 / DL1000 No Cut (Years) Frame Bobbins Crash Protectors Motorcycle Sportbike), Frame Sliders - Amazon Canada

If you look at the picture, it's the smaller diameter indent (I don't know what to call it) that needs to be turned down. That goes inside the bike's frame hole, so smooth finish won't be necessary.



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If you are just turning the step, I would be very tempted to pretend it is wood and use the backside of a crappy chisel to turn the step down. The force is very close to the chuck which minimizes the forces. Can you mount it in an angle grinder instead of a drill? Those bearings should be happier. Clamp a chisel in a vise and bring the work carefully to the chisel.
 
moarmoto said:
Krator MT219-048 Black Slider... Krator MT219-048 Black Slider (Suzuki SV650 / SV1000 / DL650 / DL1000 No Cut (Years) Frame Bobbins Crash Protectors Motorcycle Sportbike), Frame Sliders - Amazon Canada

If you look at the picture, it's the smaller diameter indent (I don't know what to call it) that needs to be turned down. That goes inside the bike's frame hole, so smooth finish won't be necessary.



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not trying to kick a guy when he's down
but that item gets terrible reviews
-missing parts
-don't fit - like your problem

and then there's this one
wondering if it's worth the effort to modfy for fit?

PyVpYje.jpg
 
J_F said:
not trying to kick a guy when he's down
but that item gets terrible reviews
-missing parts
-don't fit - like your problem

and then there's this one
wondering if it's worth the effort to modfy for fit?

PyVpYje.jpg
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Oh mine came with all parts. No issue there.

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Do frame sliders not intensify damage to your frame?
They look like a pretty poor design for a bash plate imho.
 
Trials said:
Do frame sliders not intensify damage to your frame?
They look like a pretty poor design for a bash plate imho.
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Totally agree.I have personally seen a simple lowside turned into a frame busting highside twice on the track.Bodywork is cheap.Frame and engine cases are not.
 
I think these are designed for tip overs and low speed dumps. They don't really mount to the frame, they go on the long bolt that cinches the frame to the engine, I'm sure they would be as harmless as they are pointless in a slide -- they would simply snap off.

I put them on my Wee, they make great camera mounts!
 
lol bet if you put ball casters on the sides of the bike you could get it to slide a heck of a long way.
 
Trials said:
Do frame sliders not intensify damage to your frame?
They look like a pretty poor design for a bash plate imho.
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Theoretically if made of nylon or uhmw, they will withstand a good slide................on tarmac, and protect things like a tank.......thats about it. Delrin will snap as I mentioned, leaving the bolt holding the slider in, to get mangled and destroy your frame.

If you happen to slide into the gravel or side of the road, or infield of a track, the bike will tumble once they catch and dig in. Ask me how I know ;)

The term "slider' is misleading, the consumer assumes you can lowside and minimise damage. I truly believe they are only effective in ultra slow dumps or parked dumps, saving the fairings, and then all you need is new levers and bar ends and a foot peg.
 
Rob Star said:
Theoretically if made of nylon or uhmw, they will withstand a good slide................on tarmac, and protect things like a tank.......thats about it. Delrin will snap as I mentioned, leaving the bolt holding the slider in, to get mangled and destroy your frame.

If you happen to slide into the gravel or side of the road, or infield of a track, the bike will tumble once they catch and dig in. Ask me how I know ;)

The term "slider' is misleading, the consumer assumes you can lowside and minimise damage. I truly believe they are only effective in ultra slow dumps or parked dumps, saving the fairings, and then all you need is new levers and bar ends and a foot peg.
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Yeah, they should probably be designed with a failure point. That way on a tip over they do their job, but if you are moving, they snap off and don't damage the frame or flip the bike in the process. Actually, while not as cool looking, the whole thing could probably be ~1/2-3/4 diameter as it just needs to withstand a static tip.
 
GreyGhost said:
Yeah, they should probably be designed with a failure point. That way on a tip over they do their job, but if you are moving, they snap off and don't damage the frame or flip the bike in the process. Actually, while not as cool looking, the whole thing could probably be ~1/2-3/4 diameter as it just needs to withstand a static tip.
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The problem is the bolt. Its doing two things, holding the slider AND its also usually one of the motor mount bolts thru the frame so you need clearance for the head of the bolt hence the big counter bore down the center. As long as it snaps off and the head of the bolt is under the fairing still to allow the fairing to be the acting "sled" in a slide, it shouldn't be a problem. As I mentioned in my first post in this thread, I think thats the only logical reason to use delrin, because I have way too much experience with this material to know better to use it for any axial load or impact applications. :)

EDIT: I will add, that I had a lowside on 141 near Roseu in Muskoka a few years back. The sliders I had were UHMW, and although the fairings and pegs and bars got mangled, my tank, swing arm and chassis were untouched. So its not all bad to use them in that regard.
 
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Remember that anything extra you bolt onto your bike to protect it, is potentially going to be impacting you when it falls on you.
... as I sit here with my crutches in handy reach :|

 
GreyGhost said:
owww.
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Actually that one didn't hurt at all, we did it twice with the same results right at the start of the day,
can hardly tell the 2 different crash videos apart, was proof that if you try something and it don't work and you try it again, same $#@! happens.

Then we rode the sand pits for the rest of the day, was an awesome ride day.
 
Id be surprised if the Chinese imports are actually delrin, I agree nylon or UHMW plastic may be better in that installation. Other consideration is most white plastics dont like sitting out in the UV, they can get very brittle in a short time.
The little Delrin I've bought is fairly expensive, torlon even worse. I'd not trust the chinese wizbangs to be more than 'white plastic'.

original question , if you dont have access to a lathe clamp a handrill in a vise , spinning and use a file, a file for HPL will work best (its for plastic) or the file you own. if you own a woodworking handplane you can use that to take off a nice curl while its spinning. You can clean it up, almost polish it by running through progressivly finer grits of sand paper.
Please dont clamp a chisel in a vise and go near it with spinning plastic. Workmans Comp videos come to mind.
 
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