I knew going into this URAL things that there would be moments.i noticed a little ticking noise a few days ago. I found some wear on the rubber donut in the driveshaft, so i replaced it. Rear wheel and driveshaft have to come out. Getting ready to reassemble and found this. Bearing to the sidecar driveshaft is missing some balls. I'm not worried about getting a new bearing and seal. But where did the balls go?
Looks like the cage is missing. There are not many balls per row in this bearing. I believe there are 10 balls per row, in which case you're two balls short.
Looks like the cage is missing. There are not many balls per row in this bearing. I believe there are 10 balls per row, in which case you're two balls short.
Also, if that cage is missing, the balls can all go to one side of the bearing and allow the central race to shift to the other side by enough to allow balls to escape. That (in the putting-together direction, as opposed to the coming-apart direction, of course) is how they assemble the balls into the bearing to begin with. The cage goes in around the balls afterward.
Also, if that cage is missing, the balls can all go to one side of the bearing and allow the central race to shift to the other side by enough to allow balls to escape. That (in the putting-together direction, as opposed to the coming-apart direction, of course) is how they assemble the balls into the bearing to begin with. The cage goes in around the balls afterward.
I don't want this to sound like I'm being hard on it, as you say you knew there would be moments. I am curious though, many kilometres did that bearing accumulate before exploding?
I don't want this to sound like I'm being hard on it, as you say you knew there would be moments. I am curious though, many kilometres did that bearing accumulate before exploding?
Replace that with quality brand 3204 2RS or 5204 2RS (either will work).
The plastic cage failed because the bearing got contaminated. 2RS bearings are sealed, you can’t easily grease them - you don’t need to.
Thst unsealed FAG bearing is cheap and dirty, SKF 3204-A-2RS1-TN9 would be my choice. Better internal geometry for side loads (A), heavy grease retaining seals (2RS1) so less maintenance (no periodic lubrication) and less chance of contamination, and reinforced cage (TN9). You can smear a little grease as a trap on the outside of the bearings for a little extra protection from contamination.
You don’t want a steel caged version for a motorcycle wheel bearing. They run hotter, noisier, and not as smooth at speed. Poly cage bearings fail when contaminated… so does steel.
That's a lot more expensive than what was shown for the OE replacement above, but personally, I would do it. 15 000 km for a wheel bearing (or driveshaft bearing) is a premature failure, and barring severe overloading or improper installation, contamination is usually what does them in.
Motorcycle wheel bearings are often sealed on one side, or unsealed and reliant upon a separate seal. I always replace them with the sealed variety when time comes to replace them. You'll never notice the 0.001 N.m of extra rotational drag from the extra seal.
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