What is a KLR good for?

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KLR Junkie said:
I notice that nobody answered your question. The thermo-bob is simply a bolt on device that adds a thermostatically controlled coolant bypass to the KLR. With the stock setup, the coolant is always flowing through the radiator. When you're riding around on a cool day the coolant temp is very low, sometimes the needle on the temp gauge is barely off the peg. Then when you're sitting in traffic the temp climbs back to the "normal" operating range before dropping again when you get moving.

Adding the bypass means that the coolant re-circulates in the engine and only gets sent through the radiator when it gets too hot. This keeps the engine temps more consistent which should aid in longevity. I was out for a ride last week in 5 degree weather and the temp gauge was sitting right smack in the middle the entire ride.
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Thanks for finally answering that one.
About the only time I ever check the gauge is in real hot stop and go traffic. It's never over heated.

That said when I holed the rad in Caliboogie the gauge was quite helpful.
 
I bought a meijia storage box for the bike. I have to admit it is very nice to have a trunk and somewhere to store some items! Box seems durable and well made, colours are nice and price was decent!
 
I'm a big fan of these Rubbermaid Action Packers. This is the daily driver box. For camping trips I have a larger one that will hold my tent, camp chair and the small coffin that holds my Uke. IMG_1012.JPG
 
Fuzzbuster said:
Are your highway pegs made or bought?
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I made them along with the tool tube. IIRC they bolt on to the front triangular motor mounts - they replace to two triangle plates with 3 holes in them. I just welded some old folding pegs on the end of 1x1 square tubing. Need some detailed pics?
The rear racks are also my handi work. I have crashed tested numerous times.
 
It is simple with:

  • gravity feed fuel and no need for a fuel pump.
  • carburetted.
  • light enough.
  • good fuel range of 500+ kms if you take it easy.
  • cheap to buy.
  • nothing special but it does the job.
 
Glad you are enjoying the KLR

They are an absolute joy to own
 
Ever have your fuel run out while doing 130 infront of a tanker truck on the highway and you don't actually know if your fuel tap reserve works! 😬
 
How about some how hitting the kill switch just as you swerve in front of the guy you just passed. That's fun too.

Are you running an inline fuel filter? Don't. It took me a couple summers of "running out of gas" at speed when the the tank was less than half full to figure that the fuel filter was too much of a restriction.
 
timtune said:
How about some how hitting the kill switch just as you swerve in front of the guy you just passed. That's fun too.

Are you running an inline fuel filter? Don't. It took me a couple summers of "running out of gas" at speed when the the tank was less than half full to figure that the fuel filter was too much of a restriction.
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I don't have a filter, I thought about it but read elsewhere exactly what you said!
 
timtune said:
….
Are you running an inline fuel filter? Don't. It took me a couple summers of "running out of gas" at speed when the the tank was less than half full to figure that the fuel filter was too much of a restriction.
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I use a 40 micron fuel filter on every carbed motor fed from a steel tank - it keeps rust particles out of carbs.

A KLR has a petcock screen in the tank, it won’t do much to catch the fine stuff that gums up a carb.

If you’re getting fuel starved using a filter, you have the wrong type/size, or installed it wrong. You can’t use the dinky 1” filters used on lawn equipment or dirt bikes, you need a 40micron filter that is at least 1-1/2” long. I choose the ones that support 1/4 and 5/16 lines (just because they are bigger and last longer).

A KLR at WOT needs a fuel flow of less than 6.5l/hr - you’re not going to starve a proper filter unless it’s clogged.

If you want to do a simple mod, change the stock vacuum petcock to a standard 5/16 shutoff petcock. Add a simple mikuni type vacuum powered pump (powered by the vacuum line removed from OE petcock. Add a big filter.

You’ll thank yourself for less carb cleaning and fuel system delivery system will become so trouble free you’ll think your riding a Suzuki.



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Mad Mike said:
I use a 40 micron fuel filter on every carbed motor fed from a steel tank - it keeps rust particles out of carbs.

A KLR has a petcock screen in the tank, it won’t do much to catch the fine stuff that gums up a carb.

If you’re getting fuel starved using a filter, you have the wrong type/size, or installed it wrong. You can’t use the dinky 1” filters used on lawn equipment or dirt bikes, you need a 40micron filter that is at least 1-1/2” long. I choose the ones that support 1/4 and 5/16 lines (just because they are bigger and last longer).

A KLR at WOT needs a fuel flow of less than 6.5l/hr - you’re not going to starve a proper filter unless it’s clogged.

If you want to do a simple mod, change the stock vacuum petcock to a standard 5/16 shutoff petcock. Add a simple mikuni type vacuum powered pump (powered by the vacuum line removed from OE petcock. Add a big filter.

You’ll thank yourself for less carb cleaning and fuel system delivery system will become so trouble free you’ll think your riding a Suzuki.



.
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But I really really like the smell of carb cleaner!
😵‍💫
 
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