Had to do a carb clean and co2 bypass on a cheapass Firman genny with a pair of vice grips and a screwdriver at -25c.
Learned a new trick from an electrician yesterday - you can make a jump pack with a piece of 14/2 wire and a Milliwakee tool battery. Jam the wire into the connection on the battery then touch the dead battery. Won’t start a car, but cranked over the atv just fine.
Snowblower runs without leaking.
Only thing now is the connector for the wire that makes the thing blow keeps vibrating off. I’ve temporarily fixed it with duct tape. Might try some blue loctite. I’m not sure why it wasn’t vibrating off before.
Installed an oil pan heater and did the SEIC switch and reprogrammed upgrade our last F’d-150. The upgrade sets 1000 RpM as base idle and heats oil for startup and phaser lubrication.
Hopefully this will help the poor Coyote to live past 40k.
Installed an oil pan heater and did the SEIC switch and reprogrammed upgrade our last F’d-150. The upgrade sets 1000 RpM as base idle and heats oil for startup and phaser lubrication.
Hopefully this will help the poor Coyote to live past 40k.
Yes - our trucks are in a very challenging severe service environment in the far northern reaches of Ontario. Rough clay/mud roads, -30 for months on end. It’s still -5 (as in your pic) some days in early June.
You don’t see many Ford trucks here - if you do they rarely last 3 years - they can’t take the rugged terrain or the cold. We’re lucky to see 50k from an F150, most are dead in 3 years and rarely hit 100k.
It’s Dodge and GM country, Fords come here to die.
The main Ford issues (F and E series) are cold related. Broken door latches are so common we keep a box of spares for 2 trucks - both inside and out. They don’t start reliably below -30 without being plugged in, and they often go into starter lock out from cranking. You can’t heat them up at idle and they idle all day. They don’t produce enough engine heat or oil flow at idle to serve the cam phasers (or warming spots for the crews) that’s the killer. The ABS /Traction control sensors freeze and the trucks go into limp. These are not random problems - they happen to every late model F and E series gas truck that operates here.
Some owners zip tie the gas pedals to keep idle at 1100rpm to build heat and oil flow. Ford has a hidden high idle setting, but it’s got to be enabled in the BCM using a programmer. It’s a PIA to use - every time you stop: enable the parking brake, turn on cruise control, then simultaneous press of the set and resume buttons. Awful when a bunch of guys use the truck because they have to remember the sequence and to turn it on. Awful because F series parking brakes freeze ON in the cold so nobody will touch them. I do an upgrade that bypasses the control part to keeps the high idle always on - it helps, the engines live to 80-100k.
Dodges and GMs live till they rust out or get crashed. Fords tap out early here - 3 years and 50k is all you get from a work truck.
A fleet manager spelled it out clearly for me:
Ford designs F-150s primarily as consumer pickups with work capability, GM and Ram still design theirs primarily as work trucks that consumers buy.
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