What did you do in your garage today..? | Page 148 | GTAMotorcycle.com

What did you do in your garage today..?

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ReSTored said:
FYI

IMO Costco has a great deal on 4' LED lights.


Delivery price is $50 - 8 = $42 net. Warehouse price is $40 - $8 = $32 net. On sale unti l17/12.

I picked up a bunch of these at the store for the garage and basement.
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Colour temp?

Good price. The barrinas I normally buy are about $3/1K lumens, these are about $4/1K lumens.

I avoid lights that change modes with the wall switch like the plague. They always seem to go crazy (and the worst is if multiple lights on the same switch get out of sync.
 
Broke the final tab off the plastic case for my Gray sockets. Growing up my Dad had every tool I thought I needed. When I got married and moved out one of my groomsmen gave me a toolbox and basic set of tools. This socket set was one of them. I've been married for 38 years.
CrapTire used to sell these with a lifetime warranty. If you go to CTC and Stand Your Ground they will still replace them. IMG_0907.JPG
 
timtune said:
Broke the final tab off the plastic case for my Gray sockets. Growing up my Dad had every tool I thought I needed. When I got married and moved out one of my groomsmen gave me a toolbox and basic set of tools. This socket set was one of them. I've been married for 38 years.
CrapTire used to sell these with a lifetime warranty. If you go to CTC and Stand Your Ground they will still replace them. View attachment 64591
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Replace them with what? Mastercraft?
 
Mad Mike said:
If I had that kind of building and space, I'd split it into two sections, 40x28 and 18x28 with an insulated rollup and mandoor between. The big section would be for my garage, a simple setup designed to store cars, bikes and toys. Probably add a service hoist ceiling heights permitted. General items:
  • Heat. First choice would be a 2-zone mini-split heat pump (I like AC in the shop). I'd heat the workshop to a comfortable temp, and the garage part only when needed. 2nd choice would be a Drolet wood-fired furnace.
  • 100A service (60A min)
  • concrete floor
  • Lots of Hi-bay LED lighting
The smaller section would be my workshop. Keeps the grime away from where my good stuff is sheltered and easier to heat/cool and light.
  • 12' insulated rollup and a mandoor to the outside world
  • Fully insulated
  • Overhead gantry
  • 2 post 10,000lb car hoist and a bike lift
  • Workbench along one side, stationary tools (compressor, welder, saws, brakes etc)
  • 4x4 washroom with a sink and toilet. Connected to septic or use a greywater pit and composting toilet, use in-wall electric heat for freeze prevention if the rest of the building is only heated when used.
The bigger section would be my garage area - a place to store my cars and bikes..
  • 12' insulated rollup and a mandoor to the outside world
  • 2 big windows
  • I wouldn't likely insulate the storage part, I'd prefer to spend on making the workshop part comfortable
You mention the steel siding is rough, you can wire wheel the surface rust off and repaint with Tremclad or Rustoleum. What's the reason for stripping off the siding? Can you not insulate from the inside?

Just dreaming....
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70 year old siding that has been beat up over the years with cattle, wagons and tractor buckets etc.


Your list almost matches with my thoughts. Most excellent.


I do industrial paint for a living....I will do the spray foam myself on this job.
 
bakaboy said:
70 year old siding that has been beat up over the years with cattle, wagons and tractor buckets etc.


Your list almost matches with my thoughts. Most excellent.


I do industrial paint for a living....I will do the spray foam myself on this job.
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It is a great list and would make the perfect shop.

I was thinking of spray foaming my pole barn as well but a friend told me that it can trap moisture and cause rust and deterioration of the metal. Have you heard this or have any concerns?

The metal on my building is about the same age and condition as yours.
 
xrljoel said:
It is a great list and would make the perfect shop.

I was thinking of spray foaming my pole barn as well but a friend told me that it can trap moisture and cause rust and deterioration of the metal. Have you heard this or have any concerns?

The metal on my building is about the same age and condition as yours.
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Not sure if true but there are a couple solutions if that is an issue. Closed cell shpuld prevent moisture passage (at a high cost). For bakaboy, he could grab some leftover product from his day job and coat the inside prior to spray foam. That should be good forever.
 
bakaboy said:
70 year old siding that has been beat up over the years with cattle, wagons and tractor buckets etc.


Your list almost matches with my thoughts. Most excellent.


I do industrial paint for a living....I will do the spray foam myself on this job.
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I forgot the pullout sleeper-couch.

Assuming you are married.
 
timtune said:
I dropped a "new to me" set jugs on the bench to keep my project rolling thanks to @Lash
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I'm envious.

Nothing like a new set of jugs on the bench!
 
GreyGhost said:
Not sure if true but there are a couple solutions if that is an issue. Closed cell shpuld prevent moisture passage (at a high cost). For bakaboy, he could grab some leftover product from his day job and coat the inside prior to spray foam. That should be good forever.
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There are competing lines of thought.

Some advocate that closed cell spray foam does not need a vapour barrier. I do not subscribe to that thought.

In a cooler climate with heated indoor environment as the predominant element moisture intrusion into the building envelope from the inside is the greater risk. So I would still install a vapour retarder over the spray foam on the interior wall prior to finishing.

As for corrosion of the backside of the cladding, it is a potential. But my greater fear is the potential of cladding ripple formation if I was to apply the spray foam directly to the metal cladding at the 4 to 6 inch depth inside the framing.

Therefore I plan, since I will be removing the old cladding, to install plywood prior to the metal cladding.

The interior vapour retarder should deal with condensation formation in my building envelope. The plywood prior to metal cladding should ensure I have normal corrosion potential for the metal cladding. And the plywood over my framing should eliminate the potential for warping of the metal cladding by the spray foam.

However I could be wrong.
 
bakaboy said:
There are competing lines of thought.

Some advocate that closed cell spray foam does not need a vapour barrier. I do not subscribe to that thought.

In a cooler climate with heated indoor environment as the predominant element moisture intrusion into the building envelope from the inside is the greater risk. So I would still install a vapour retarder over the spray foam on the interior wall prior to finishing.

As for corrosion of the backside of the cladding, it is a potential. But my greater fear is the potential of cladding ripple formation if I was to apply the spray foam directly to the metal cladding at the 4 to 6 inch depth inside the framing.

Therefore I plan, since I will be removing the old cladding, to install plywood prior to the metal cladding.

The interior vapour retarder should deal with condensation formation in my building envelope. The plywood prior to metal cladding should ensure I have normal corrosion potential for the metal cladding. And the plywood over my framing should eliminate the potential for warping of the metal cladding by the spray foam.

However I could be wrong.
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Everybody loves spray foam, but it’s expensive compared to the alternatives.

I’ve done a few heated garages, fibreglass or Rockwool with vapor barrier is fast, easy, cheap, and performs well. No special tools, setup or cleanup.

It’s also relatively cheap to add 1 or 2” of foil backed foam board over the batts. Tape it and no vapour barrier is needed.
 
Mad Mike said:
Everybody loves spray foam, but it’s expensive compared to the alternatives.

I’ve done a few heated garages, fibreglass or Rockwool with vapor barrier is fast, easy, cheap, and performs well. No special tools, setup or cleanup.

It’s also relatively cheap to add 1 or 2” of foil backed foam board over the batts. Tape it and no vapour barrier is needed.
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By my math

~$5000 for 3.5 fiberglass gets me under R8 and a 0.5 air gap (true 2x4 framing) or I have to fill it at more cost plus my labour and I would need to add more framing as the old shed has no 15 inch offset framing

~$16 000 for the closed cell foam at 4 inch and then misc other costs (my cost since I am not paying someone) gets me R24 plus my time investment

~$24,000 if I paid someone to do 4 inch closed cell

Wish someone could actually document better the energy cost savings for Ontario winter so I could do some energy savings calculations. Going to heat it with air exchange heat pump. R8 versus R24....

Spray foam is substantially more but is far more desirable I think for my scenario.
 
bakaboy said:
By my math

~$5000 for 3.5 fiberglass gets me under R8 and a 0.5 air gap (true 2x4 framing) or I have to fill it at more cost plus my labour and I would need to add more framing as the old shed has no 15 inch offset framing

~$16 000 for the closed cell foam at 4 inch and then misc other costs (my cost since I am not paying someone) gets me R24 plus my time investment

~$24,000 if I paid someone to do 4 inch closed cell

Wish someone could actually document better the energy cost savings for Ontario winter so I could do some energy savings calculations. Going to heat it with air exchange heat pump. R8 versus R24....

Spray foam is substantially more but is far more desirable I think for my scenario.
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2x4 with batts is R13 or 15, not R8. Framing spacing being non-standard can be a huge hassle with batts.

If you aren't relying on it for vapour barrier, why not open cell? Afaik, much much cheaper than closed cell with slightly reduced performance.

What is providing shear strength on the wall? Steel now, plywood in the future or is there something like strapping or shear frames in the construction? If you don't need the plywood for shear, rigid insulation on the outside of the stud under the steel gives you insulation and keeps the spray foam from bowing the steel.

Does anyone make a loop or heat exchanger that can be connected to an air source heat pump? It would be cool to have slab heat. I guess you could run slab heat off a fossil fuel and it would also function as emergency heat.

As with most things, the devil is in the details on energy savings. R8 vs R24 on the walls may matter a little or a lot. Is the slab insulated? How insulated is the ceiling? How sealed are the doors? How insulated are the doors? Temp difference inside to outside? If you have a few percent of the envelope at R8 and most at R40, the energy bills will be far closer to the R8 than the R40. The key is to pick a number and try to get every path very close to that number. My suspicion is that money spent on the large doors (better seals and better insulation) will have a far bigger effect on energy costs than whatever you do with the walls. Depending on layout, if you are doing two chambers as per mad mikes concept, if the warm chamber only has a large door into the cooler chamber, energy bills will be vastly different than if the warm chamber has an exterior large door (less temp difference across the door, no wind pressure on seals, no water past seals, heat that leaks out keeps cold side a little warmer instead of disappearing into atmosphere, etc).
 
GreyGhost said:
2x4 with batts is R13 or 15, not R8. Framing spacing being non-standard can be a huge hassle with batts.

If you aren't relying on it for vapour barrier, why not open cell? Afaik, much much cheaper than closed cell with slightly reduced performance.

What is providing shear strength on the wall? Steel now, plywood in the future or is there something like strapping or shear frames in the construction? If you don't need the plywood for shear, rigid insulation on the outside of the stud under the steel gives you insulation and keeps the spray foam from bowing the steel.

Does anyone make a loop or heat exchanger that can be connected to an air source heat pump? It would be cool to have slab heat. I guess you could run slab heat off a fossil fuel and it would also function as emergency heat.

As with most things, the devil is in the details on energy savings. R8 vs R24 on the walls may matter a little or a lot. Is the slab insulated? How insulated is the ceiling? How sealed are the doors? How insulated are the doors? Temp difference inside to outside? If you have a few percent of the envelope at R8 and most at R40, the energy bills will be far closer to the R8 than the R40. The key is to pick a number and try to get every path very close to that number. My suspicion is that money spent on the large doors (better seals and better insulation) will have a far bigger effect on energy costs than whatever you do with the walls. Depending on layout, if you are doing two chambers as per mad mikes concept, if the warm chamber only has a large door into the cooler chamber, energy bills will be vastly different than if the warm chamber has an exterior large door (less temp difference across the door, no wind pressure on seals, no water past seals, heat that leaks out keeps cold side a little warmer instead of disappearing into atmosphere, etc).
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4x4 posts with 2x4 supports on angles for walls

Dirt floor now. Was going to excavate and insulate the new concrete slab

Was just planning to enclose upper at 10 foot and leave it as an attic

Maybe 1 divider wall so split it 33% on the left unheated. Heat the 66% on the right.

Add a mandoor entrance.Resized_20220513_131512.jpg
 
The Ural dripped ACF50 all over the floor. Very slippery stuff. It was a bugger to clean up this afternoon. I guess that's a good thing.
 
bakaboy said:
4x4 posts with 2x4 supports on angles for walls

Dirt floor now. Was going to excavate and insulate the new concrete slab

Was just planning to enclose upper at 10 foot and leave it as an attic

Maybe 1 divider wall so split it 33% on the left unheated. Heat the 66% on the right.

Add a mandoor entrance.View attachment 64659
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I see now, it’s a pole barn with horizontal girts and diagonal strapping for shear. I’d use fibreglass blankets insulation. R16 is about 1.30sq’ of wall space.
1701549842426.png


The diagonals sheer strap is not necessary on a small pole barn with wood or steel siding. My bros chicken barn is 100x200, shear comes metal from siding only.

You can remove the sheer straps or simply insulate around them.

I’d ditch the track door, they are impossible to keep sealed. A standard res roll ups would be better, you can get them for well under $1000 each. Watch kijiji, sometimes $100.
 
Mad Mike said:
I see now, it’s a pole barn with horizontal girts and diagonal strapping for shear. I’d use fibreglass blankets insulation. R16 is about 1.30sq’ of wall space.
View attachment 64660


The diagonals sheer strap is not necessary on a small pole barn with wood or steel siding. My bros chicken barn is 100x200, shear comes metal from siding only.

You can remove the sheer straps or simply insulate around them.

I’d ditch the track door, they are impossible to keep sealed. A standard res roll ups would be better, you can get them for well under $1000 each. Watch kijiji, sometimes $100.
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You can get a good seal on a sliding door if you are fancy with the system. You want it to drop at the end of travel into ramps that pull it tight against the building using gravity. Opening it first lifts it a little to remove the inwards pressure and then allows it to move along the rails. Very far from a conventional setup though. Lumber kilns use a similar setup.
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