Tighten Chain

[Blackfin]

I think you’ll find that any issues with the actual master link failing are due to incorrect installation rather than a failure in the part itself. Think about it - why would a chain company risk the liability and not just offer the rivet master links?

I don't know the answer to this, TBH. Maybe they sell them because they know there's a niche of lazy people that will buy them.

Chain manufacturer RK state that the clip-type connecting link is intended for off-road use:

the link can be installed without the use of a special tool which makes field-repairs or in-pit replacement easier and faster. However, these chains have limited life-spans and, in the case of race bikes, operate in very controlled circumstances where inspections and parts replacement occurs regularly.

Rivet types "are mostly used for street applications":

and can see tens of thousands of kms.

I've seen people use the clip type and put a turn or two of safety wire on the clip to make sure it doesn't pop off:

I guess this makes them less likely to pop off but they're still not as safe as a rivet link. As if riding isn't already dangerous enough; why screw around with janky chain links?

 

[GreyGhost]

I guess this makes them less likely to pop off but they're still not as safe as a rivet link. As if riding isn't already dangerous enough; why screw around with janky chain links?

I've never had a problem with a clip link. Personally, I like them as it lets me split the chain with tools i have on the bike. If you have a chain problem in but f#%# nowhere and have a rivited master link, good luck to you.

 

[SVeezy]

I wouldn't use clip-type master links on a street bike, anecdotes of reliability from random folks notwithstanding.

To each their own and whatever makes each most comfortable, but through thousands of hours of operation I’ve never seen a clip master link fail on anything. Ymmv. I would have to think a failure was due to improper installation.


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app

Sorry, I was late to the party and half asleep

 

[boyoboy]

I've never had a chain fail with a master clip - dirt or street.
Rivet or master link clip- both are good as long as its done properly. imo.

 

[Wingboy]

A "Motion Pro" chain alignment tool is very handy and not expensive.

I have used a master link chain on big tracks with safety wire and silicone.And on 10's of thousands of street miles.Having said that...there is no room for error.A broken chain in 401 traffic at 130 is no joke,nor is a balled up chain at the countershaft sprocket that would most likely take out the engine case. $$$$$ Enough said.Do what you feel comfy with.

 

[Trials]

Rivit links are perfect for a 10 speed bicycle chain where your chain de-railer has to torque the chain sideways to switch gears. On a motorcycle no such side forces exist unless you smash your chain on a rock or log :/ and I've done that many times without incident too.

 

[Blackfin]

Chains live terrible lives. There are all sorts of dynamics, harmonics and motions in a chain. For example, during hard straight line acceleration:

@SVeezy, agreed: To each his own. The goal is for the individual to make an informed choice with all the info.

 

[Trials]

Chains live terrible lives..

and that's just a flat road bike! Now put it on a motocrosser with a spring loaded chain tensioner and 10 inches of rear wheel travel then pelt it with sand rocks and sticks coming off the rear wheel. It will still be on there when you stop.

 

[Relax]

Chains live terrible lives. There are all sorts of dynamics, harmonics and motions in a chain. For example, during hard straight line acceleration:

Most of that is from suspension movement, so it appears more sensational than it actually is. It’s not like the chain is stretching that much under acceleration.

 

[Relax]

This video illustrates just how much slack can be taken up by suspension movement.

 

[Riceburner]

Fortunately it was only an adjuster lock nut and the adjuster plates didn't get lost. A chain tool will pay for itself in the long run or get the RK bolt on master link chain.

 

[Blackfin]

and that's just a flat road bike! Now put it on a motocrosser with a spring loaded chain tensioner and 10 inches of rear wheel travel then pelt it with sand rocks and sticks coming off the rear wheel. It will still be on there when you stop.

Back in the early 80s I had an RM125 I raced. At Hully Gully the chain failed at the clip-link; the chain bunched up at the rear sprocket and I went ass over teakettle. Bike was pretty banged up and I had the wind knocked out of me. So they're not "always on there" when you stop; sometimes they're AWOL when you stop hard.

Having crashed on dirt with one 35 years ago I would personally never give consideration to using one on the street, especially on a bike with more than ~60HP.

For trail riding? Sure, with a new spare & a scredriver and a pair of pliers in a toolbag.

If was still racing motocross? I'd have a tackle-box full of them and would inspect and change it every moto if need be for the very reasons you mention.

But never on the street. YMMV.

 

[MaksTO]

Minor thread jack, but this reminded me to sign up for the July 07 Moto Revere basic maintenance course on Dupont. So if anyone else here has not worked on their bike, but wants to adjust their chain on their own come join haha.

At $60 for a two hour basics course I feel like you can't go wrong considering how much shops charge for labor on messy components.

 

[LBV]

I just bought a new Triumph Speed Twin with a chain. Other bikes were belt or shaft so I'll be learning some new skills soon.

 

[tohawk]

I don't know the answer to this, TBH. Maybe they sell them because they know there's a niche of lazy people that will buy them.

Chain manufacturer RK state that the clip-type connecting link is intended for off-road use:

the link can be installed without the use of a special tool which makes field-repairs or in-pit replacement easier and faster. However, these chains have limited life-spans and, in the case of race bikes, operate in very controlled circumstances where inspections and parts replacement occurs regularly.

Rivet types "are mostly used for street applications":

and can see tens of thousands of kms.

I've seen people use the clip type and put a turn or two of safety wire on the clip to make sure it doesn't pop off:

I guess this makes them less likely to pop off but they're still not as safe as a rivet link. As if riding isn't already dangerous enough; why screw around with janky chain links?

Like the photo, I did the safety wire thing on my little (400 dual sport) bike's chain master link clip when I last replaced the chain. 10k km and it's still there looking fine. I'd do this again... have seen a buddy lose his link and chain came off on the highway... though he had a spare master link and carried on in reasonably short order after chain was retrieved from roadside.

 

[Trials]

Sounds like my friend who was really upset when his lucky master link finally broke.

 

[Trials]

Cushion drive rear hubs are fairly common on street bikes, owners might want to monitor that part (if so equipped). Any time the chain is off, check your rear sprocket for excess wiggle or play, it can be related to some rubber parts in the rear hub drive that require periodic replacement.