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Tighten Chain
- Thread starter Lah0re
- Start date
GateKeeper
Well-known member
Do it yourself, watch a few videos, and follow your owners manual, you should be good to go, unless you have never held a tool.....
I'd say for a good Chain and Sprockets maybe 300 bucks, give or take, do it yourself and your probably down to about 200 bucks
it all depends on shop rates, quality and cost of chain and sprockets...
.
I'd say for a good Chain and Sprockets maybe 300 bucks, give or take, do it yourself and your probably down to about 200 bucks
it all depends on shop rates, quality and cost of chain and sprockets...
.
Basic chain maintenance should be apart of the MSF course in my opinion. How often are people bring their bike to a shop? 2-3 time a year?
I clean/relube once a week and check slack + adjust accordingly every 2 weeks. Bike seems happier and it can become a safety issue quickly.
I clean/relube once a week and check slack + adjust accordingly every 2 weeks. Bike seems happier and it can become a safety issue quickly.
CB900F2
Well-known member
I highly recommend The chain monkey for when you plan to adjust your chain ..
Works like a charm..
www.tru-tension.com
Sent from my BBD100-2 using Tapatalk
Works like a charm..
Chain Monkey Features at British Superbikes | Tru-Tension USA
The MWR Motorsport Ducati mechanics were the first to get […]
www.tru-tension.com
Sent from my BBD100-2 using Tapatalk
If you feel that adjusting a chain exceeds your mechanical abilities, I highly recommend not buying a bike with a chain. It needs to be checked much too often to make a mechanic feasible (if you don't feel comfortable adjusting it, I doubt you are comfortable/competent at determining whether the slack is correct).
Replacement is a different story. It's easy with some skills and tools but is infrequent so leaving it to a shop is not a big deal. My guess is shop time on replacement will have some pita pricing as it is a dirty job. I would guess they charge an hour but wouldn't be surprised if I was off in either direction.
Replacement is a different story. It's easy with some skills and tools but is infrequent so leaving it to a shop is not a big deal. My guess is shop time on replacement will have some pita pricing as it is a dirty job. I would guess they charge an hour but wouldn't be surprised if I was off in either direction.
Da fuq? So you put that thing on and then "tighten your chain until all slack is removed" and you are done? That's not really how tightening tension members across a horizontal span works. There will always be some sag, more tension allows less sag. If you can get the sag/tension proper with the chainmonkey on, you have the ability to easily do it without the chain monkey.
blackcamaro
Well-known member
Yeah learn how to adjust your chain for sure. It isn’t hard at all and is part of owning a motorcycle. Having it replaced by a shop is a good idea though.
r3r3r3, your doing the right thing cleaning and lubing your chain weekly. You shouldn’t have to adjust it every couple weeks. Make sure you aren’t setting to tight and stretching it or maybe wheel alignment is off.
Edit. Sorry I misread thinking you’re adjusting it not just checking it. My bad.
r3r3r3, your doing the right thing cleaning and lubing your chain weekly. You shouldn’t have to adjust it every couple weeks. Make sure you aren’t setting to tight and stretching it or maybe wheel alignment is off.
Edit. Sorry I misread thinking you’re adjusting it not just checking it. My bad.
Relax
Well-known member
The biggest risk to chain tensioning is not understanding the purpose for the slack in the first place and blindly setting an arbitrary amount that ends up being too tight. I’ve seen it too many times by both professional mechanics and DIYers. So if you’re going to pay someone to do it for you, be sure they do it properly. I’ve even had arguments with some of the more respected members of this forum (you know who you are) that thought my chain was set too loose when in fact it was just right.
It all has to do with the fact that most bikes when sitting on their kick stand don't have the front and rear sprockets and swingarm pivot point lined up. So the slack is required to prevent binding when the suspension compresses and those three points line up, where the distance between sprockets is at max. Manufacturers provide the slack based on a stock setup. If anything changes, that number goes out the window and the only way to know for sure is to compress the suspension until everything lines up, tighten the chain to no slack, then go back to a static position and set your new baseline so you don’t have to go through that every time (unless you keep changing things like your ride height or sprocket sizes). That’s where tools like the chain monkey come in. I personally use the Motion Pro slacksetter.
It all has to do with the fact that most bikes when sitting on their kick stand don't have the front and rear sprockets and swingarm pivot point lined up. So the slack is required to prevent binding when the suspension compresses and those three points line up, where the distance between sprockets is at max. Manufacturers provide the slack based on a stock setup. If anything changes, that number goes out the window and the only way to know for sure is to compress the suspension until everything lines up, tighten the chain to no slack, then go back to a static position and set your new baseline so you don’t have to go through that every time (unless you keep changing things like your ride height or sprocket sizes). That’s where tools like the chain monkey come in. I personally use the Motion Pro slacksetter.
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Riceburner
Well-known member
No it's not. I do my own stuff and haven't taken it to a shop in almost 3 decades.
***Though I do take it to a shop to get the safety done. On the last bike they were doing the safety and said the chain needs adjusting and they would do it at no charge. So I let them. Lost a retaining nut on the ride home. Good thing I checked, otherwise I would have lost more parts. That's why I do my own work.
TK4
Well-known member
I meant in terms of buying all the tools to replace for a one shot job. Doing chain/sprockets is for someone experienced.
OP does not have 3 decades of experience.
If an axle nut fell off on the way home I'd have turned around, ridden right back and demand someone fix the mistake(s).
Relax
Well-known member
A decent 1/2” torque wrench is about $50 on sale. Everyone should have a socket set, if not add another $100. OEM shop manual $100 or free if you find it online (or just this specific procedure). Rear stand or a pair of jack stands and a rod $50. Never having to take you bike somewhere only to have them do it wrong or cause an unrelated problem and learning some useful skills - PRICELESS.
Ok I left out the $100 chain rivet tool if you’re paranoid, but I’ve never had a problem with clip master links.
Ok I left out the $100 chain rivet tool if you’re paranoid, but I’ve never had a problem with clip master links.
Trials
Well-known member
I started fixing my own motorcycles at age 11 ? lol child's play ?
First thing I bought was a service manual too, I remember it cost me a whole 7$
I was outraged, that was a lot of coin in the 1960's.
First upgrade was a new full knobby rear tire and tube that I had to figure out how to put on.
... it made me cry a little, but I got er done. I think the tire was 18 or 20$
:| there was no sales tax back then, you paid the price marked on things, guess that's what makes them the good ol days.
First thing I bought was a service manual too, I remember it cost me a whole 7$
I was outraged, that was a lot of coin in the 1960's.
First upgrade was a new full knobby rear tire and tube that I had to figure out how to put on.
... it made me cry a little, but I got er done. I think the tire was 18 or 20$
:| there was no sales tax back then, you paid the price marked on things, guess that's what makes them the good ol days.
Trials
Well-known member
They come off easy if you put them on wrong, otherwise they stay on there pretty good lol learned that the hard way at about age 12. Never had one fail since.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I started fixing bikes at 12 when I got my first Rupp Roadster. My neighbour, an old retired Italian military mechanic used to help me. He showed me how to safety wire a clip master link, I have done that ever since and never seen a failure.
To the OP, if you have to ask this question get a shaft or belt drive. Chain driven bike owners must know how to lube, clean, and inspect chains as part of safe motorcycle operation. If you're mechanical enough to inspect and maintain, you're likely capable of changing a chain.
To the OP, if you have to ask this question get a shaft or belt drive. Chain driven bike owners must know how to lube, clean, and inspect chains as part of safe motorcycle operation. If you're mechanical enough to inspect and maintain, you're likely capable of changing a chain.
Relax
Well-known member
I think you’ll find that any issues with the actual master link failing are due to incorrect installation rather than a failure in the part itself. Think about it - why would a chain company risk the liability and not just offer the rivet master links?
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