Stainless steel brake fitting sizes | GTAMotorcycle.com

Stainless steel brake fitting sizes

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timtune

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Parts?
It can be a real can o' worms
You want 3AN/Dash3 Teflon hose (3/16 ID)

The fittings are all over the place... Banjo s are usually a 10mm through hole but beware of the banjo to hose connection. Traditionally these are 3/8x24 or 1/8 NPT (the AN/Dash standard), but you'll find lots of 10x1.0 (the Metric standard).
 
Aeroquip is STUPID expensive. You can buy pre-made lines cheaper
Fairview is cheaper
AliExpress is cheaper still
 
Ok so the sizes are good. Dash 3 - You say 3/16" (.187) I.D. Aeorquip specs it as .140" I.D.
Fairview says nominal ID 1/4" actual ID 3/16"
However I couldn't find banjo fittings in the Fairview catalogue.
I'll be calling both tomorrow to try and get some prices.
 
bitzz said:
Aeroquip is STUPID expensive. You can buy pre-made lines cheaper
Fairview is cheaper
AliExpress is cheaper still
Click to expand...
I have purchased SS braided lines off AliExpress -- they have been excellent in terms of quality and dependability.

I must admit that when riding my bike equipped with these lines, every time I squeeze hard 'Made in China' flashes in red across my mind.
 
Looks like one of the banjos I need are maybe a two month wait going the Aeroquip way. Cost for everything (enough for 4 lines ) reasonably at $200 I thought.
BUT then it was brought up are these DOT approved since they are not crimped?
 
If you're just looking for some lines that aren't off the shelf (rather than trying to save a few bucks) I know Pro 6 Cycle does crimped custom lines to your specs. No idea about cost, though. I'd expect them to be more than a typical Galfer kit.

For me, brakes are the one area I absolutely won't go budget on. The thought of my life depending on some bought from AliExpress makes me queasy.
 
timtune said:
Looks like one of the banjos I need are maybe a two month wait going the Aeroquip way. Cost for everything (enough for 4 lines ) reasonably at $200 I thought.
BUT then it was brought up are these DOT approved since they are not crimped?
Click to expand...

Braided-steel brake lines that are made up with the usual screw-together ferrule fittings cannot be DOT approved. None of them are. Hasn't stopped generations of race bikes being built with brake lines like that.

Some late model bikes have OEM braided-steel brake lines (I have one) ... but they're not built with that style of fittings.

I did a random spot check ... Spiegler claims that their brake lines comply with FMVSS 106 (American standard for this). They're quite visibly not using screw-together ferrule fittings ... they look crimped. They also don't have the steel braid exposed ... they have a full-length plastic cover.

You can get their brake lines made to your dimensions ... Custom Brake Lines | Motorcycle Brake Lines | Spiegler USA

If you are worried about DOT approval, that's the way to go. Aliexpress ... not so much. Brakes aren't the place to save money.

It's possible that Pro 6 has the equipment to do this locally, or knows someone who does - but make sure you are getting the crimped fittings, not the screw-together type.
 
Brian P said:
It's possible that Pro 6 has the equipment to do this locally, or knows someone who does - but make sure you are getting the crimped fittings, not the screw-together type.
Click to expand...
It's what I was told by one of their parts guys when I was looking at installing a thumb brake (needs a looong line to get to the rear caliper), but it's entirely possible he didn't know the difference...
 
I leery of specing what I want. Length center to center of banjo bolt is easy. BUT they are also twisted along the tube axis. Speigler measuring video does mention that at all.

As well I'm considering some kind of splitter/switch delete. I want to keep the original MC w/o a switch. Havn't figured that one out yet. (something small inline?)

And as long as we're on brakes what's the thinking on silicone fluid? Yay or Nay?
 
timtune said:
And as long as we're on brakes what's the thinking on silicone fluid? Yay or Nay?
Click to expand...
Dot5 (silicone) should only be used when the manufacturer specifies (i.e. Harley)
Dot4 or DOT5.1can be used almost interchangeably, but the only place I've seen DOT 5.1 is on some bicycle brakes.
 
... a lot of doom and gloom ....
I've been making brake lines and oil lines for many, many years and have never had a line go south...WAIT, that's not true, I've had a very expensive Russell line leak at the banjo/line junction that no amount of tightening would fix..
Brake lines are not terribly complicated... they work or they don't.
A 36" banjo to banjo brake line costs me about $22... but I've given up on banjos and I go with AN/Dash. Fewer pieces
https://imgur.com/yZyY2ef
Hey look, there's that Russell line POS

To FIT a new brake line, grab a piece of fuel line to route it and to judge the length needed
For a switch: put a pressure switch in as a banjo bolt in either end or install a "T" with a switch in the line
 
^ I have that style of brake lines on my race bike. The straight-in fitting is at the caliper. The master-cylinder end is still a banjo bolt due to clearance issues. The angular orientation of the end fittings doesn't matter when one end is the straight-in style.
 
Wow. I am so thankful to have such a group of smart helpful folks.
First off bitzz that switch is exactly the part I'm looking for - almost. Would that be available with a longer bolt for two banjos? Where can I source it.
Second $22 for a line is goofy cheap considering that's the cost of a single Aeroquip reusable banjo fitting.
If I go with this AN/dash fitting at one end does it allow you to rotate or twist the banjo at the other end. Or am I getting too caught up in the axial orientation?
Lastly is the banjo bolt thread (or internal caliper threads) all a standard size on bikes?

Thanks for all the help.
 
The straight-in fitting tightens without twisting the hose. It follows from this, that the orientation at the banjo end doesn't matter. You snug the end with the banjo first, ensure that the hose routing is satisfactory (which orients the hose in the process), then tighten down the straight-in end.

There are at least two caliper thread sizes including at least two pitch dimensions for the same diameter. (In other words, I am aware of two. Both are M10 but pitch could be 1.0mm or 1.25mm. There could be other possibilities.) It would be highly advisable to measure what's on your actual caliper / master cylinder.

I haven't run across a double-banjo with an integral pressure switch. These pressure switches are common for rear-brake applications using aftermarket rearset footpegs with no provision for the OEM mechanical switch. If you're trying to use a non-OEM master cylinder at the front with no provision for a mechanical switch and you have dual-disk brakes, it may be a matter of using a single short brake line from that master to a splitter (i.e. that allows you to install the pressure switch at the master cylinder), and then go from the splitter to both calipers.

That "splitter", if you don't have an OEM one to work with, could consist of a piece of aluminum with a (say) M10x1.25 threaded through hole, as long as the ends are machined flat. Short brake hose with single banjo fitting at the master to an AN fitting on one side of that block of aluminum, and a double-banjo on the other side of that block of aluminum. Aluminum block needs to be long enough so that both fittings don't collide in the middle.
 
Brian P said:
The straight-in fitting tightens without twisting the hose. It follows from this, that the orientation at the banjo end doesn't matter. You snug the end with the banjo first, ensure that the hose routing is satisfactory (which orients the hose in the process), then tighten down the straight-in end.

There are at least two caliper thread sizes including at least two pitch dimensions for the same diameter. (In other words, I am aware of two. Both are M10 but pitch could be 1.0mm or 1.25mm. There could be other possibilities.) It would be highly advisable to measure what's on your actual caliper / master cylinder.

I haven't run across a double-banjo with an integral pressure switch. These pressure switches are common for rear-brake applications using aftermarket rearset footpegs with no provision for the OEM mechanical switch. If you're trying to use a non-OEM master cylinder at the front with no provision for a mechanical switch and you have dual-disk brakes, it may be a matter of using a single short brake line from that master to a splitter (i.e. that allows you to install the pressure switch at the master cylinder), and then go from the splitter to both calipers.

That "splitter", if you don't have an OEM one to work with, could consist of a piece of aluminum with a (say) M10x1.25 threaded through hole, as long as the ends are machined flat. Short brake hose with single banjo fitting at the master to an AN fitting on one side of that block of aluminum, and a double-banjo on the other side of that block of aluminum. Aluminum block needs to be long enough so that both fittings don't collide in the middle.
Click to expand...
If its for duals on your SOHC, you can use everything from a GL1000. One line from the master to the splitter, the splitter has a pressure switch, If I recall the lines and banjo sizes were the same as the 750's of the day, the master a little bigger.

Or, if you have a pressure banjo or mechanical switch in the leverset, try this: https://fortnine.ca/en/drag-special...MIo-zr0K7c9AIVQsDICh2NwgNeEAQYAiABEgJiEfD_BwE
 
Thanks all. Good to hear the "twist" is no concern.
MadMike it is duals on my sohc. It currently has a splitter with the switch but it's big and ugly (my opinion). My thought is to run two lines straight from caliper to MC and use the double banjo pressure switch.
However now I need to mock up the tank, bars and switch gear to make sure things fit. AND just to make it all more tricky I'm mounting a set of drop or clubman bars. If my memory is correct, last I did this my only problem was unintentionally hitting the horn or starter button on the tankbag at full lock.
 
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