Spoked Rims - How To? | GTAMotorcycle.com

Spoked Rims - How To?

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Kozy_750

Well-known member
I got some old spoked Goldwing Rims that I want to re-hub to spoked CB750 hubs. When I take them apart, is there a trick or procedure? Or, do I just take the spokes all the way out one at a time? was wondering it I gradually loosen them one at a time, all the way around, and keep doing that until they are all loose.

Also, anyone know of a good place to have them re-hubbed? I'd like an experienced person to "true" the rim for me.
Thanks.
 
If you're adventurous enough to take them apart, just reverse the procedure to assemble. Keep the same pattern, tighten the spokes equally and use a wheel balancer outfit to finish truing the wheel (two dimensions, vertical runout and lateral runout) You can't really mess it up, so give it a try. Worst case someone else finishes it for you. Does not really matter how you dissassemble. Good luck!
 
skapan said:
If you're adventurous enough to take them apart, just reverse the procedure to assemble. Keep the same pattern, tighten the spokes equally and use a wheel balancer outfit to finish truing the wheel (two dimensions, vertical runout and lateral runout) You can't really mess it up, so give it a try. Worst case someone else finishes it for you. Does not really matter how you dissassemble. Good luck!
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I've built hundreds of bicycle wheels and I'm here to tell you, people can mess it up big time! :)

I'd recommend loosening the spokes a little bit at a time all the way around..start with 1/2 turn of the nipple. Once the tension is low you can start doing full turns. When re-lacing, obviously ensure you have the same number of spokes on both hub and rim. Make sure the rim you're using is meant for the size of nipple you're using. Spokes come in different gauges and it can make a difference to check that they're at least close. Be aware the rim may have both lateral and longitudinal direction for the nipples. The dimple in the rim is intended to hold the nipple in a certain manner. Make sure you lace the wheel with the correct orientation knowing which way the dimples are oriented. If you force a nipple into the incorrect dimple the nipples could fail in fairly short order.

If the spokes are new, you can get pretty close when tightening by simply turning the nipple until the threads just disappear at nipple. Do this all the way around. Hopefully you will not have tension yet on the wheel. If you do start getting tension, stop and count threads that show and make them the same all the way around..1 or 2 threads showing, whatever. Once they're all even you can then start tightening them all the same amount. You can do a full turn if it's very loose. Once you start getting ANY tension, drop to 1/2 or 1/4 turn. If you're getting tension at the beginning of the rotation, it'll be VERY tight by the time you finish the rotation.

As far as the correct tension, you should let a pro finish the job. The tension is hard to ascertain and balancing tension and trueness is an art. Getting vertical and lateral trueness is tricky as well. The strength of the wheel is dependent on the tension so it's important.

Good luck! :)
 
call ted at rosey toes 416-241-2523, he has the jig. and he can reinstall your tire and tube.
 
Using instructions for lacing bicycle wheels should apply equally to motorcycle wheels, bearing in mind the sage advice that Invictus43 gave above. First ascertain the cross pattern -- Cross-2, cross-3 or cross-4. You will have to duplicate that pattern on the new wheel. You may also have to purchase new spokes in the eventuality that the CB750 hub is of different diameter than the Goldwing hub. Even a slight difference in diameter might affect how many threads are caught by the nipples. A slight diameter might be able to be accommodated with just new nipples.

Invictus43 is correct in advising that you seek a professional to true the wheel. You'll need a special jig and understanding only gained by experience to get the wheels correct. You don't want to run on wheels that are out of true.

FYI, the bible on wheel lacing is the book called "The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt.
 
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robmack said:
FYI, the bible on wheel lacing is the book called "The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt.
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I've had the odd joust with Mr. Brandt but by and large, he is extremely skilled and knowledgable about bike stuff. His knowledge of the spoked wheel is pretty complete and that book is indeed the bible.
 
There is a company called Buccanan and all they do is make spokes and re lace motorcycle wheels, you send them the parts and they send you back properly assembled and tensioned wheels.
I have no idea of there pricing but they are raved about by some vintage bike nuts i know.
 
crankcall said:
There is a company called Buccanan and all they do is make spokes and re lace motorcycle wheels, you send them the parts and they send you back properly assembled and tensioned wheels.
I have no idea of there pricing but they are raved about by some vintage bike nuts i know.
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You know, it can be a good investment to just get a pro to do it. It's more money..but..you know it's done correctly. One of the biggest issues (don't know about this particular case..) is small differences in spoken length. You only have maybe 5mm of flexibility in spoke length. After that you need another route to get where you want to go. Pros will have access to spokes and thread dies if need be. They have experience and will generally get the tension correct. Incidentally, if your tension is too low your spokes will eventually loosen off and your rim will be damaged eventually. Too tight (very hard to do I suspect in motorcycle rims) and you can buckle the rim or start cracking the rim.

If you just want a hobby and are in no rush and money is no object, have at it! It's a neat thing to build a wheel. :)
 
RetroGrouch said:
Not for the light of wallet.
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I'm not surprised, I'm all for DIY but once in a while its better to just bite the bullet. I have some limited experience and i think if I was building a wheel back to spec same hub/rim combo I might have a go at it. changing rims and hubs and maybe the length and layout on spokes sounds like it may be for the expensive experienced guys.
 
Thaks for the info, great feedback. I'm not puting the rim back together myself, a pro will be assembling it for sure. I'd need a lesson or two before attempting that myself.
I was just wondering more about the disassembly.......if there was anything that could cause me grief while taking it apart. I'm resoring the Gl1000 rims and having them re-laced to my old CB750 hubs, many sohc CB750's have this upgrade, it looks great.
I thought I'd just loosen the spokes a little at a time and work my way around the rim a few times until they are all evenly loosened. Then, just take the rim assembly apart.
 
Kozy_750 said:
I was just wondering more about the disassembly.......if there was anything that could cause me grief while taking it apart. I'm resoring the Gl1000 rims and having them re-laced to my old CB750 hubs, many sohc CB750's have this upgrade, it looks great.
I thought I'd just loosen the spokes a little at a time and work my way around the rim a few times until they are all evenly loosened. Then, just take the rim assembly apart.
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You shouldn't have any issues. The only thing you worry about with bicycles is getting the freewheel off before removing the spokes! :) Not a problem on a motorcycle wheel. The idea behind loosening the spokes a bit at a time is that if you suddenly release tension in one area only, you can deform the rim in that area. A little at a time ensures even release of tension on the rim and should ensure the rim stays round.
 
I sent a front hub from a klr to buccanon and for a custom drilled wheel, custom length spokes and it built and trued it was about $400 plus shipping if I recall. Not bad at all.
 
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